Cars
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For most of us, cars are our second most expensive possession, our transporatation to work and play. Cars reflect our personalities and our dreams. For many, a car is a friend and a companinon--a very sensitive, you might even say thin-skinned, one at that, Modern car finishes are pretty delicate; Over the primer is a single layer of waterborne acrylic paint with peigment and then several layers of paint witn no pigment, called clearcoat. While the clearcoat adds depth and brightness to the color, it adds no additional protection, so total average is often no more than 5 millimeters thick. That's not a lot between your metal and corrosive elements. So the idea is to maintain a clean, surface and a solid protective layer of wax. Interior surfaces take a beating from the elements as well, so they need regular TLC, too. The International Car Wash Association recommends washing your car every 10 days and waxing every six months. Beyond aesthetics, it's a way of protecting your investment and avoiding damage.
Choosing a car washing site is the first step. The weather has finally cleared. You're ready to hang out the "Open for Business" sign for your home car wash. You're tempted to soak up some rays as you scrub down the sedan. Looks god on TV, but the truth is, sunshine is a car washer's enemey. You get water spots more readily on the clearcoat. The heated metal dries soap into a film before you can rinse it off, and your wax crusts into hard-to-wipe streaks.
So part it under a shady tree? Careful there, too, since debris falling from the tree can cause other headaches. (Imagine a fingernails-on-chalkboard squeak as you unwittingly scrub twig bits across the paint. Imagine a rain of yellow pollen.) You may also find yourself facing two mortal enemies of car finishes--bird droppings and tree sap. (Always wipe bird "calls" off as soon as possible. It may take a specialized solvent to remove tree sap.) Better choices are a carport, a garage with good ventilation and drainage, or a shady area not directly under a tree. Another alternative is a coin-operated car wash bay.
expert advice
Put up with the Static Cling >
When you're washing your car-cleaning rags, don't use dryer sheets on them in the dryer, say Chuck Bennett, CEO of Zymol (manufacturer and distributor of car-care products) and author of The Authoritative Guide to Automotive Detailing. Dryer sheets contain silicone, which will leave streaks on your car.
An ecological consideration. Don't park too near a storm drain. Your soapy water is untreated and will wash from the drain directly into local rivers, creeks, and streams.
Next, look at your watch and any belt buckle or jewelry that might bang against the car and leave scratches where you just want shine. Time to round up your tools and supplies.
Selecting the right cleaner is important. Car experts of all stripes are emphatic on this point: Dishwashing soap it for dishes. Used on a car, it can do more harm than good. Its detergent can thin the vehicle's protective layer of wax or, if the finish
is worn, it can actually scratch or further break down the paint. So instead of shiny-and-sparkly, you get dull-and-scratchy.
you'll find nondetergent car cleaners in mass merchandisers, discount clubs, and auto supply shops. Avoid those that promise a shine, because they are likelyto contain silicone, which can streak your paint and result in glare off shiny interior surfaces. Mix the cleaner according to label instructions for the exterior and in a more dilute mix for interior surfaces ( 2 to 3 drops per gallon) Look for established brand names like Meguiar's, Mothers Simonize, TurtleWax, 3M, Greased Lightning, and Zymol.
Selecting cleaning rags is a matter of personal choice, but a neat universal favorite is a piece of 100 percent cotton terry cloth towel. Towels are superabsorbent and grow softer with use and age. They're especially great for drying. Be sure to grab a really old one--not, say, one of the new fluffy monogrammed guest towels. New towels contain unstable dyes and silicone for sizing, to you'll have filthy guest towels as well as color and silicone streaks on your car.
All-cotton cloth diapers, T-shirts, and shop rags are fine for interiors, but their weaves can be abrasive on your car's tender dermis. And be careful using sponges on the paint. Some, such as sea sponges are notorious for hiding grit in their holes. Other options: disposable wash milts filled with car soap,microfiber towels, and chamois cloths. One word about chamois: It's clingy. Use it only to push water across the car, not to dry. Never drag it flat across the finish--it will drag away wax.
On rag-washing day, skip the fabric softener and dryer sheets. These products contain silicone, which causes streaking.
Using a garden hose for rinsing makes life a lot easier. If you don't have a hose at home, you can use the wand in a coin-operated car wash. Spray in a steady, medium flow, not a high-pressure blast, which can grind dirt granules into the paint. With a continuous, moderate stream, the water flows across the car's outer surface in sheets, gently washing away sand, salt, pollen, dirt and other debris as well as soap. The wheels are the exception--there, a strong blast works well.
A rinsing rule of thumb: Spray in directions that water normally travels across or down the car, because that's the way the car is designed to slough off water. Otherwise, you may shoot water into body vents and other design features where water isn't meant to go.
Selecting a polish should be done with care: Made with fine abrasives, polishes are designed to lift light oxidation so you can see the true color of the paint better. As their name implies, they brighten the finish. Read labels. Find a polish that indicates that it's "safe
for modern car finishes" or "safe on clearcoat." And always apply polish on a clean car with a cool surface.
Selecting a wax is easy because a number of good brands are widely available. Liquid waxes are easiest to use. With a paste wax, it's easy to transfer grit into the original container--putting your finish at work. Not only does wax give the paint its glossy sheen
Simple SOLUTIONS
Glass Cleaner Under Your Hood >
You can save a wad of money on glass cleaner by using alcohol-based windshield wiper fluid to spiff up your windows and mirrors. For summertime or indoor use, mix 1o ounces of alcohol based wiper fluid with 20 ounces of water in a 32 ounce spray bottle. For use in freezing temperatures, mix half wiper fluid and half water.
and sharpen the color, but it also preserves the paint by helping it retain oils that reduce oxidation, the process that leads to the dreaded R-word, rust. It's also a layer between your paint and the
world, a barrier to ultraviolet rays, pollutants, bird dropping, grime, bugs, tar, and tree sap. While the International Car Wash Association recommends waxing every six months to maintain a solid protective coat, you may need to do it more often--say, every three months--if the season or the region you live in exposes the car to harsh conditions such as a heavy bug season, high dust and heat, or salt. And if your ride is red, black, or white, consider waxing more often, since these colors are more susceptible to acid rain and UV rays.
A word of warning about spray-on, wipe-off detailer products that promise to help maintain that freshly waxed look between wax jobs: Many are alcohol-based, so they actually strip wax.
Use a bead test to find out whether you're still getting good protection are astonished to learn that cars have drain holes that need occasion attention--the life of the car is at stake. The drain holes are located under each fender and quarter panel and at the bottom of each door panel. These rubber eyelets let out rainwater and melting snow that leak down the outside of the fenders, panels, and windows. If the holes are plugged with debris, the moisture gets trapped inside the body and can cause the vehicle to rust form the inside. Clear the holes by running a cotton swab into and across the opening. Later, when you rinse the car, any buildup will drain out.
Start cleaning the car interior by running a vacuum over the seats and seat crevices ( a flat-tube attachment helps here), then the floor mats and floor carpeting. (Here's where you get to collect on your habit of dropping change into tough-to-reach places.)
Cleaning floor mats is the next step after vacuuming. Take out the mats and hose them down. Fill a bucket with water and add 2 or 3 drops of nondetergent cleaner per gallon. Dip in a stiff-bristled brush and scub. If this is an early-spring cleaning, scrub well to evict winter hibernators like road salt. After scrubbing, rinse the mats with the hose until the runoff is clear. Vacuum them with a wet/dry vac, if you have one, or just set them aside to air-dry--but not in full sun, which could fade them.
Cleaning doorjambs is a smart first or second task. By starting with the parts of the door you don't see when the doors are closed, you don't risk getting cleaner and wax on already-clean surfaces, such as your seats and carpet. Open the door wide and thoroughly clean around the door opening and the edges with a soapy rag. Afterward, take a dry exterior-use rag and wipe the inner door and skills dry. Dry all the painted surfaces, then polish and wax them (See Waxing on next)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For most of us, cars are our second most expensive possession, our transporatation to work and play. Cars reflect our personalities and our dreams. For many, a car is a friend and a companinon--a very sensitive, you might even say thin-skinned, one at that, Modern car finishes are pretty delicate; Over the primer is a single layer of waterborne acrylic paint with peigment and then several layers of paint witn no pigment, called clearcoat. While the clearcoat adds depth and brightness to the color, it adds no additional protection, so total average is often no more than 5 millimeters thick. That's not a lot between your metal and corrosive elements. So the idea is to maintain a clean, surface and a solid protective layer of wax. Interior surfaces take a beating from the elements as well, so they need regular TLC, too. The International Car Wash Association recommends washing your car every 10 days and waxing every six months. Beyond aesthetics, it's a way of protecting your investment and avoiding damage.
Choosing a car washing site is the first step. The weather has finally cleared. You're ready to hang out the "Open for Business" sign for your home car wash. You're tempted to soak up some rays as you scrub down the sedan. Looks god on TV, but the truth is, sunshine is a car washer's enemey. You get water spots more readily on the clearcoat. The heated metal dries soap into a film before you can rinse it off, and your wax crusts into hard-to-wipe streaks.
So part it under a shady tree? Careful there, too, since debris falling from the tree can cause other headaches. (Imagine a fingernails-on-chalkboard squeak as you unwittingly scrub twig bits across the paint. Imagine a rain of yellow pollen.) You may also find yourself facing two mortal enemies of car finishes--bird droppings and tree sap. (Always wipe bird "calls" off as soon as possible. It may take a specialized solvent to remove tree sap.) Better choices are a carport, a garage with good ventilation and drainage, or a shady area not directly under a tree. Another alternative is a coin-operated car wash bay.
expert advice
Put up with the Static Cling >
When you're washing your car-cleaning rags, don't use dryer sheets on them in the dryer, say Chuck Bennett, CEO of Zymol (manufacturer and distributor of car-care products) and author of The Authoritative Guide to Automotive Detailing. Dryer sheets contain silicone, which will leave streaks on your car.
An ecological consideration. Don't park too near a storm drain. Your soapy water is untreated and will wash from the drain directly into local rivers, creeks, and streams.
Next, look at your watch and any belt buckle or jewelry that might bang against the car and leave scratches where you just want shine. Time to round up your tools and supplies.
Selecting the right cleaner is important. Car experts of all stripes are emphatic on this point: Dishwashing soap it for dishes. Used on a car, it can do more harm than good. Its detergent can thin the vehicle's protective layer of wax or, if the finish
is worn, it can actually scratch or further break down the paint. So instead of shiny-and-sparkly, you get dull-and-scratchy.
you'll find nondetergent car cleaners in mass merchandisers, discount clubs, and auto supply shops. Avoid those that promise a shine, because they are likelyto contain silicone, which can streak your paint and result in glare off shiny interior surfaces. Mix the cleaner according to label instructions for the exterior and in a more dilute mix for interior surfaces ( 2 to 3 drops per gallon) Look for established brand names like Meguiar's, Mothers Simonize, TurtleWax, 3M, Greased Lightning, and Zymol.
Selecting cleaning rags is a matter of personal choice, but a neat universal favorite is a piece of 100 percent cotton terry cloth towel. Towels are superabsorbent and grow softer with use and age. They're especially great for drying. Be sure to grab a really old one--not, say, one of the new fluffy monogrammed guest towels. New towels contain unstable dyes and silicone for sizing, to you'll have filthy guest towels as well as color and silicone streaks on your car.
All-cotton cloth diapers, T-shirts, and shop rags are fine for interiors, but their weaves can be abrasive on your car's tender dermis. And be careful using sponges on the paint. Some, such as sea sponges are notorious for hiding grit in their holes. Other options: disposable wash milts filled with car soap,microfiber towels, and chamois cloths. One word about chamois: It's clingy. Use it only to push water across the car, not to dry. Never drag it flat across the finish--it will drag away wax.
On rag-washing day, skip the fabric softener and dryer sheets. These products contain silicone, which causes streaking.
Using a garden hose for rinsing makes life a lot easier. If you don't have a hose at home, you can use the wand in a coin-operated car wash. Spray in a steady, medium flow, not a high-pressure blast, which can grind dirt granules into the paint. With a continuous, moderate stream, the water flows across the car's outer surface in sheets, gently washing away sand, salt, pollen, dirt and other debris as well as soap. The wheels are the exception--there, a strong blast works well.
A rinsing rule of thumb: Spray in directions that water normally travels across or down the car, because that's the way the car is designed to slough off water. Otherwise, you may shoot water into body vents and other design features where water isn't meant to go.
Selecting a polish should be done with care: Made with fine abrasives, polishes are designed to lift light oxidation so you can see the true color of the paint better. As their name implies, they brighten the finish. Read labels. Find a polish that indicates that it's "safe
for modern car finishes" or "safe on clearcoat." And always apply polish on a clean car with a cool surface.
Selecting a wax is easy because a number of good brands are widely available. Liquid waxes are easiest to use. With a paste wax, it's easy to transfer grit into the original container--putting your finish at work. Not only does wax give the paint its glossy sheen
Simple SOLUTIONS
Glass Cleaner Under Your Hood >
You can save a wad of money on glass cleaner by using alcohol-based windshield wiper fluid to spiff up your windows and mirrors. For summertime or indoor use, mix 1o ounces of alcohol based wiper fluid with 20 ounces of water in a 32 ounce spray bottle. For use in freezing temperatures, mix half wiper fluid and half water.
and sharpen the color, but it also preserves the paint by helping it retain oils that reduce oxidation, the process that leads to the dreaded R-word, rust. It's also a layer between your paint and the
world, a barrier to ultraviolet rays, pollutants, bird dropping, grime, bugs, tar, and tree sap. While the International Car Wash Association recommends waxing every six months to maintain a solid protective coat, you may need to do it more often--say, every three months--if the season or the region you live in exposes the car to harsh conditions such as a heavy bug season, high dust and heat, or salt. And if your ride is red, black, or white, consider waxing more often, since these colors are more susceptible to acid rain and UV rays.
A word of warning about spray-on, wipe-off detailer products that promise to help maintain that freshly waxed look between wax jobs: Many are alcohol-based, so they actually strip wax.
Use a bead test to find out whether you're still getting good protection are astonished to learn that cars have drain holes that need occasion attention--the life of the car is at stake. The drain holes are located under each fender and quarter panel and at the bottom of each door panel. These rubber eyelets let out rainwater and melting snow that leak down the outside of the fenders, panels, and windows. If the holes are plugged with debris, the moisture gets trapped inside the body and can cause the vehicle to rust form the inside. Clear the holes by running a cotton swab into and across the opening. Later, when you rinse the car, any buildup will drain out.
Start cleaning the car interior by running a vacuum over the seats and seat crevices ( a flat-tube attachment helps here), then the floor mats and floor carpeting. (Here's where you get to collect on your habit of dropping change into tough-to-reach places.)
Cleaning floor mats is the next step after vacuuming. Take out the mats and hose them down. Fill a bucket with water and add 2 or 3 drops of nondetergent cleaner per gallon. Dip in a stiff-bristled brush and scub. If this is an early-spring cleaning, scrub well to evict winter hibernators like road salt. After scrubbing, rinse the mats with the hose until the runoff is clear. Vacuum them with a wet/dry vac, if you have one, or just set them aside to air-dry--but not in full sun, which could fade them.
Cleaning doorjambs is a smart first or second task. By starting with the parts of the door you don't see when the doors are closed, you don't risk getting cleaner and wax on already-clean surfaces, such as your seats and carpet. Open the door wide and thoroughly clean around the door opening and the edges with a soapy rag. Afterward, take a dry exterior-use rag and wipe the inner door and skills dry. Dry all the painted surfaces, then polish and wax them (See Waxing on next)
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