Curlers
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When you curl your hair, the last thing you want to see when you gaze in the mirror are traces of grime in your hair left over from the curlers. Nor do you want to ruin your hair with harsh cleaning-chemical residue.
To wash curlers that are submersible in water--plain rollers, Velcro rollers, foam-coated wire sticks--fill your bathroom sink with warm water, mix in a couple of teaspoons of shampoo or facial
cleanser to create suds, and let soak. As a general rule, if a cleaner is gentle enough for your face or hair, it is fine for your curlers. Use a wide-toothed comb to gently pull out any hair stuck in the curlers. Then wipe with a rag to remove caked-on film. Rinse with fresh water and either dry with a clean towel or air-dry.
For stubborn stains, such as hardened setting lotions or gels, mix up a solution of 1/4 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon liquid fabric softener in a cup. Gently scrub the solution in with a vegetable brush. Rinse with water and dry.
To clean electric curlers, which are not submersible, use a rag or vegetable brush and the fabric softener solution. Rinse by wiping the curlers with a damp rag and then dry.
Curling Irons
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Cleaning curling irons can be tricky. You must remove the shel-laclike crust of singed hair and hair spray that builds up over time. But here's the hitch: Because they are electrical appliances, you can't soak them in water. And you don't want to use toxic chemical cleaners, since they can leave chemical residue in your hair.
Luckily, we have a nontoxic recipe that work wonders.
Clean your curling iron if it starts to smoke when you use it. But rather than waiting until it smokes, it's better to clean it about once a month. When you clean, always make sure the appliance is completely cool.
First, try dipping a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and applying it to the barrel of the curling iron. If that does not clean it completely, mix 1/4 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon liquid fabric softener in a cup. Dip a swab
into the solution and clean the remaining areas. The fabric softener should dissolve the baked-on gunk. For really stubborn patches, gently scrub with a brass-wire brush. When you are finished, wipe the curling iron clean with a damp rag and then dry it with another rag.
Follow the same instructions for heat rollers, crimping irons, and flat curling irons.
Curtains
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Curtains are the unsung heroes of the home furnishings world. Day in and day out, they stand sentinel against the ravages of summer sun and winter drafts. And-most people don't know this--they form an integral part of the home's airflow system, filtering
dust out of air that blows in and out of windows. You owe it to your curtains--not to mention your lungs--to keep them clean and dust free.
Dust your curtains once a month or so as part of a regular house hold dusting. There's no need to take them down. (who has the time to do that every month?) Instead, dust them where they drape using your vacuum cleaner with a dusting brush or an upholstery attachment. Use an extension tube to reach the tops. If you don't have the right vacuum attachments, use that tired-and-true cleaning implement, the feather duster.
Clean your curtains about once a year. First, look for the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations, which should be on a tag sewn inside the hem. If there is no tag, try to decide what sort of treatment the fabric gets. Depending on the material, you will either machine-wash, hand-wash, or dry-clean the drapes.
If curtains can be machine-washed, put them in the washer on the delicate cycle. They may look sturdy and stable, but being continually exposed to the sun can weaken curtains by breaking down
the fibers in the material. Consequently, the minute you wash them, they may begin to deteriorate. Likewise, be gentle when drying curtains in a machine. Use the permanent press setting on your dryer, it has a cool-down feature that will help prevent wrinkles. High heat can set wrinkles in the fabric, especially when the cycle ends abruptly, leaving the curtains in a ball. An alternative to tumbling curtains until they are dry is to remove them from the dryer and hang them while they are still damp. This will reduce wrinkling and may even help you avoid having to iron them. If your curtains are not very dirty, skip the washing altogether and freshen them by tumbling them in a dryer using no heat.
If curtains require dry cleaning, make sure that you find the best shop for the job. Most neighborhood dry cleaners don't have the special knowledge or equipment to handle curtains. Find one that does. Some cleaners will even measure your curtains beforehand and guarantee that they will come back
the same length, which is important.
RULES OF THE GAME
It's Curtains for Dust on Drapes >
Keeping your curtains free of dust is easy and good for your health. Always clean matching draperies at the same time. Vacuum them where they hang using a dusting brush or upholstery attachment. Start at the top and work down. Be sure to clean the places where dust tends to gather--usually the tops and hems. To avoid sucking the fabric into the nozzle, either reduce the vacuum pressure or grasp the bottom and hold the curtains taut.
Cushions
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Keeping cushions clean is more than a matter of appearance. Microoroganisms called dust mites, which can trigger allergies, often lurk, within a dirty couch's folds and fibers. Flop down after a hard day's work, and you may find yourself in a sneezing fit. By removing the dust regularly, you not only keep your cushions looking fresh (and keep the dust from staining them once it is ground in or moistened), but you also improve the quality of your home's air.
To remove dust--and the tiny critters inhabiting the dust--clean cushions about once a month using a vacuum cleaner with the appropriate attachments, such as an upholstery brush and a crevice tool. To avoid sucking out the the feathers, don't vacuum down-filled cushions that are not lined with downproof ticking. No vacuum cleaner attachments? Simple: Use a soft-bristled brush to gently
brush away the dust.
To give a more thorough cleaning, or to remove stains, wash your cushions. As a general rule, don't remove the cushions from the upholstery cover. First, check the upholstery manufacturer's suggestions, usually tagged to upholstery fabric sold after 1970. This tag will tell you whether you should use a water-based shampoo, a dry-cleaning solvent, or neither of the two. Next, pick an inconspicuous spot on the cushion and pretest whatever cleaning technique is recommended. If there is shrinking or bleeding or running of colors, contact a professional cleaner. If not, proceed.
Even if shampoo is allowable, use as little moisture as possible. You do not want to wet the cushion's stuffing, because it dries very slowly and can make conditions even rosier for moisture-loving dust mites. The trick is to clean using suds only.
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When you curl your hair, the last thing you want to see when you gaze in the mirror are traces of grime in your hair left over from the curlers. Nor do you want to ruin your hair with harsh cleaning-chemical residue.
To wash curlers that are submersible in water--plain rollers, Velcro rollers, foam-coated wire sticks--fill your bathroom sink with warm water, mix in a couple of teaspoons of shampoo or facial
cleanser to create suds, and let soak. As a general rule, if a cleaner is gentle enough for your face or hair, it is fine for your curlers. Use a wide-toothed comb to gently pull out any hair stuck in the curlers. Then wipe with a rag to remove caked-on film. Rinse with fresh water and either dry with a clean towel or air-dry.
For stubborn stains, such as hardened setting lotions or gels, mix up a solution of 1/4 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon liquid fabric softener in a cup. Gently scrub the solution in with a vegetable brush. Rinse with water and dry.
To clean electric curlers, which are not submersible, use a rag or vegetable brush and the fabric softener solution. Rinse by wiping the curlers with a damp rag and then dry.
Curling Irons
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cleaning curling irons can be tricky. You must remove the shel-laclike crust of singed hair and hair spray that builds up over time. But here's the hitch: Because they are electrical appliances, you can't soak them in water. And you don't want to use toxic chemical cleaners, since they can leave chemical residue in your hair.
Luckily, we have a nontoxic recipe that work wonders.
Clean your curling iron if it starts to smoke when you use it. But rather than waiting until it smokes, it's better to clean it about once a month. When you clean, always make sure the appliance is completely cool.
First, try dipping a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and applying it to the barrel of the curling iron. If that does not clean it completely, mix 1/4 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon liquid fabric softener in a cup. Dip a swab
into the solution and clean the remaining areas. The fabric softener should dissolve the baked-on gunk. For really stubborn patches, gently scrub with a brass-wire brush. When you are finished, wipe the curling iron clean with a damp rag and then dry it with another rag.
Follow the same instructions for heat rollers, crimping irons, and flat curling irons.
Curtains
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Curtains are the unsung heroes of the home furnishings world. Day in and day out, they stand sentinel against the ravages of summer sun and winter drafts. And-most people don't know this--they form an integral part of the home's airflow system, filtering
Dust your curtains once a month or so as part of a regular house hold dusting. There's no need to take them down. (who has the time to do that every month?) Instead, dust them where they drape using your vacuum cleaner with a dusting brush or an upholstery attachment. Use an extension tube to reach the tops. If you don't have the right vacuum attachments, use that tired-and-true cleaning implement, the feather duster.
Clean your curtains about once a year. First, look for the manufacturer's cleaning recommendations, which should be on a tag sewn inside the hem. If there is no tag, try to decide what sort of treatment the fabric gets. Depending on the material, you will either machine-wash, hand-wash, or dry-clean the drapes.
If curtains can be machine-washed, put them in the washer on the delicate cycle. They may look sturdy and stable, but being continually exposed to the sun can weaken curtains by breaking down
the fibers in the material. Consequently, the minute you wash them, they may begin to deteriorate. Likewise, be gentle when drying curtains in a machine. Use the permanent press setting on your dryer, it has a cool-down feature that will help prevent wrinkles. High heat can set wrinkles in the fabric, especially when the cycle ends abruptly, leaving the curtains in a ball. An alternative to tumbling curtains until they are dry is to remove them from the dryer and hang them while they are still damp. This will reduce wrinkling and may even help you avoid having to iron them. If your curtains are not very dirty, skip the washing altogether and freshen them by tumbling them in a dryer using no heat.
If curtains require dry cleaning, make sure that you find the best shop for the job. Most neighborhood dry cleaners don't have the special knowledge or equipment to handle curtains. Find one that does. Some cleaners will even measure your curtains beforehand and guarantee that they will come back
the same length, which is important.
RULES OF THE GAME
It's Curtains for Dust on Drapes >
Keeping your curtains free of dust is easy and good for your health. Always clean matching draperies at the same time. Vacuum them where they hang using a dusting brush or upholstery attachment. Start at the top and work down. Be sure to clean the places where dust tends to gather--usually the tops and hems. To avoid sucking the fabric into the nozzle, either reduce the vacuum pressure or grasp the bottom and hold the curtains taut.
Cushions
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keeping cushions clean is more than a matter of appearance. Microoroganisms called dust mites, which can trigger allergies, often lurk, within a dirty couch's folds and fibers. Flop down after a hard day's work, and you may find yourself in a sneezing fit. By removing the dust regularly, you not only keep your cushions looking fresh (and keep the dust from staining them once it is ground in or moistened), but you also improve the quality of your home's air.
To remove dust--and the tiny critters inhabiting the dust--clean cushions about once a month using a vacuum cleaner with the appropriate attachments, such as an upholstery brush and a crevice tool. To avoid sucking out the the feathers, don't vacuum down-filled cushions that are not lined with downproof ticking. No vacuum cleaner attachments? Simple: Use a soft-bristled brush to gently
brush away the dust.
To give a more thorough cleaning, or to remove stains, wash your cushions. As a general rule, don't remove the cushions from the upholstery cover. First, check the upholstery manufacturer's suggestions, usually tagged to upholstery fabric sold after 1970. This tag will tell you whether you should use a water-based shampoo, a dry-cleaning solvent, or neither of the two. Next, pick an inconspicuous spot on the cushion and pretest whatever cleaning technique is recommended. If there is shrinking or bleeding or running of colors, contact a professional cleaner. If not, proceed.
Even if shampoo is allowable, use as little moisture as possible. You do not want to wet the cushion's stuffing, because it dries very slowly and can make conditions even rosier for moisture-loving dust mites. The trick is to clean using suds only.
- The easiest solution is to use a foaming commercial shampoo in an aerosol can.
dirty
Follow the directions on the can, which typically tell you to allow the foam to stand until dry and the vacuum it off.
bucket - To make your own shampoo, mix 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing soap per 1 quart of warm water. Make suds by squeezing a sponge in the solution. Scoop the suds off the top and apply them sparingly with a sponge to the cushion surface. Rub gently in the direction of the fabric's grain. Rather than letting them dry as you would a commercial shampoo, work on a small area at a time, lightly rinsing each area as you go with a clean, damp sponge. Again, avoid soaking the fabric. Be sure to remove all the suds, or the residue will cause the fabric to soil faster.
If the fabric calls for dry-cleaning only and you want to just clean a stain, you can do it yourself, using a commercial dry-cleaning solvent such as K2r or Carbona. Don't pour the solvent onto the stain. Instead, moisten a clean white cloth with the solvent and use the cloth to draw the stain out. Blot repeatedly--never rub. Rubbing can stretch or damage the texture of the fabric. Always use solvents sparingly and in a well-ventilated area. And don't use solvents sparingly and in a well-ventilated area. And don't use solvents on cushions filled with latex foam rubber padding, because the solvent can dissolve the padding. However, if you need to clean the entire surface of a cushion, have it professionally cleaned.
Cutting Boards
Cutting Boards
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First, the bad news. Those dastardly meat- and poultry-bourne microorganisms that linger on dirty cutting boards--Salmonella, E. coli, Campylobacter--can kill you. But before you panic and throw away all your cutting boards--or worse, swear off steak and chicken--here's the good news. Not only is death by microorganism extremely rare, but by properly cleaning your cutting board--a quick, simple task--you can kill 99.9 percent of the bad stuff and continue eating what you like without fear.
To wash a plastic cutting board, just run it through a dishwasher, and the hot water and sanitizing ingredients found in dishwasher detergent will kill harmful pathogens. Make sure you wash your cutting board as soon as possible after each use, especially after preparing meat or poultry products.
To wash a wooden cutting board, it's best not to use a dishwasher because the dishwashing process may warp or loosen the glue that holds together laminated wood. You're better off using a scrub brush to scrub the board by hand with dishwashing liquid in hot water each time you use it. The soap helps lift the meat debris that may harbor the pathogens, and the scrubbing action ruptures the cells of the microorganisms. Done thoroughly, hand scrubbing is as effective as machine-washing.
To sanitize a cutting board, a good thing to do occasionally, mix 1 teaspoon of bleach in 1 quart of water and apply it directly to the cutting surface with a scrub brush. Do not rinse. Instead, let the board air-dry to give a bleach a chance to do its thing. If you need the board sooner than, let it stand for at least one minute, and then pat it dry with a clean paper towel.
expert advice
Cutting board Common Sense >
" If possible, have two cutting boards," suggests Bessie Berry, manager of the USDA's Meat and Poultry Hotline. "Use one for meat and the other for raw foods, like vegetables and fruit. To keep them straight, use a non toxic marker to label the handles or along the edge."
And, she says, don't get too attached to any one board. "If your cutting board has deep grooves from lots of cutting, you can't clean it as thoroughly. Throw it out and get a new one." It's a small price to pay for peace of mind.
First, the bad news. Those dastardly meat- and poultry-bourne microorganisms that linger on dirty cutting boards--Salmonella, E. coli, Campylobacter--can kill you. But before you panic and throw away all your cutting boards--or worse, swear off steak and chicken--here's the good news. Not only is death by microorganism extremely rare, but by properly cleaning your cutting board--a quick, simple task--you can kill 99.9 percent of the bad stuff and continue eating what you like without fear.
To wash a plastic cutting board, just run it through a dishwasher, and the hot water and sanitizing ingredients found in dishwasher detergent will kill harmful pathogens. Make sure you wash your cutting board as soon as possible after each use, especially after preparing meat or poultry products.
To wash a wooden cutting board, it's best not to use a dishwasher because the dishwashing process may warp or loosen the glue that holds together laminated wood. You're better off using a scrub brush to scrub the board by hand with dishwashing liquid in hot water each time you use it. The soap helps lift the meat debris that may harbor the pathogens, and the scrubbing action ruptures the cells of the microorganisms. Done thoroughly, hand scrubbing is as effective as machine-washing.
To sanitize a cutting board, a good thing to do occasionally, mix 1 teaspoon of bleach in 1 quart of water and apply it directly to the cutting surface with a scrub brush. Do not rinse. Instead, let the board air-dry to give a bleach a chance to do its thing. If you need the board sooner than, let it stand for at least one minute, and then pat it dry with a clean paper towel.
expert advice
Cutting board Common Sense >
" If possible, have two cutting boards," suggests Bessie Berry, manager of the USDA's Meat and Poultry Hotline. "Use one for meat and the other for raw foods, like vegetables and fruit. To keep them straight, use a non toxic marker to label the handles or along the edge."
And, she says, don't get too attached to any one board. "If your cutting board has deep grooves from lots of cutting, you can't clean it as thoroughly. Throw it out and get a new one." It's a small price to pay for peace of mind.
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