Countertops
Keeping countertops pristine serves two purposes: Your kitchen looks nicely kept and, since countertops are where most food preparation takes place, they become less of a
breeding ground for bacteria.
Countertops have come a long way since Formica, a plastic laminate, reigned supreme. Today, the most common type of countertop is a solid-surface synthetic. (Corian is one popular brand.) Other popular types are marble, granite, and engineered or synthetic stone. You would do well to read the manufacturer's directions for cleaning your kind of countertop.
General countertop maintenance calls for removing the stuff on top first, then cleaning up surface dirt and crumbs with a soft-bristled brush or handheld vacuum. Wet a nylon-backed sponge with soapy water (dishwashing liquid in warm water) and use the soft side of the sponge to wash the counter, backsplash included. Let soapy water sit on the surface a few minutes to soften any spots.
Switch to the scrubbing side to remove any intransigent spots. Rinse with warm water and buff dry with a clean, lint-free towel. Or squirt with a window cleaner such as Windex, wipe clean with a sponge, rinse with water, and dry so that it doesn't look dull or streaky.
Plastic laminates, such as Formica, don't take kindly to anything scratchy. Instead, sop up skills immediately with a sponge, then use a soapy sponge or all-purpose cleaner such as
Fantastik to wipe the counter clean. For obstinate stains, try one of the these two approaches:
Solid-Surface synthetics, such as Corian, can withstand light abrasion. Wet a scrub sponge, such as green Scotch-Brite Pad, or sprinkle a mildy abrasive cleaner, such as Soft-Scrub (without bleach), on a damp sponge and apply with gentle pressure. Rinse with water on a sponge and dry with a soft cloth.
Regularly polishing solid surfaces is impractical for most people because counters are washed so often. But for special occasions, DuPont (the maker of Corian) recommends Hope's Countertop Polish because it imparts a nice gleam. For a high gloss shine, use white polishing compound. (Turtle Wax makes one common brand.) Both products are available at hardware and home improvement stores.
Stone countertops, usually made of marble or granite, are increasingly popular these days. Counter to popular belief, stone-faced countertops are rather delicate. Acid etches marble, and anything greasy stains granite. To clean marble and granite, start with the don'ts: Never use anything abrasive. Instead, wash with a few drops of plain or antibacterial dishwashing liquid on a damp
sponge. Rinse the surface completely with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Or buy a cleaner formulated for stone from your supplier.
Here are some more tips on maintaining your stone countertop:
Blot up spills pronto with paper towels. Don't wipe--that only makes it worse. Flush the spot with warm water and mild soap, rinsing several times before drying with a soft cloth.
Use coasters, trivets, or place mats under glassware and dishes to protect surfaces from scratching. Heat damages marble, so never set anything hot on it.
Stone countertops are sometimes sealed with a penetrating commercial sealant. Make sure that wherever you prepare food, the sealant is nontoxic. Salad oil is an effective nontoxic and homespun coating for food preparation areas.
Engineered stone usually resembles granite but requires no sealant and little extra care. Wash with soap and water, an all-purpose cleaner such as Formula 409, or a window cleaner such as Cinch.
See also Granite and Marble
Crayon Marks
Keeping countertops pristine serves two purposes: Your kitchen looks nicely kept and, since countertops are where most food preparation takes place, they become less of a
breeding ground for bacteria.
Countertops have come a long way since Formica, a plastic laminate, reigned supreme. Today, the most common type of countertop is a solid-surface synthetic. (Corian is one popular brand.) Other popular types are marble, granite, and engineered or synthetic stone. You would do well to read the manufacturer's directions for cleaning your kind of countertop.
General countertop maintenance calls for removing the stuff on top first, then cleaning up surface dirt and crumbs with a soft-bristled brush or handheld vacuum. Wet a nylon-backed sponge with soapy water (dishwashing liquid in warm water) and use the soft side of the sponge to wash the counter, backsplash included. Let soapy water sit on the surface a few minutes to soften any spots.
Switch to the scrubbing side to remove any intransigent spots. Rinse with warm water and buff dry with a clean, lint-free towel. Or squirt with a window cleaner such as Windex, wipe clean with a sponge, rinse with water, and dry so that it doesn't look dull or streaky.
Plastic laminates, such as Formica, don't take kindly to anything scratchy. Instead, sop up skills immediately with a sponge, then use a soapy sponge or all-purpose cleaner such as
- Sprinkle with baking soda and rub with a soft, damp cloth. Then rinse and dry with paper towels or a soft cloth.
- Make a paste of lemon juice and cream of tartar, spread it on the stain, and let it sit for 15 minutes. Then rinse and dry.
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| Dirty Particles |
Solid-Surface synthetics, such as Corian, can withstand light abrasion. Wet a scrub sponge, such as green Scotch-Brite Pad, or sprinkle a mildy abrasive cleaner, such as Soft-Scrub (without bleach), on a damp sponge and apply with gentle pressure. Rinse with water on a sponge and dry with a soft cloth.
Regularly polishing solid surfaces is impractical for most people because counters are washed so often. But for special occasions, DuPont (the maker of Corian) recommends Hope's Countertop Polish because it imparts a nice gleam. For a high gloss shine, use white polishing compound. (Turtle Wax makes one common brand.) Both products are available at hardware and home improvement stores.
Stone countertops, usually made of marble or granite, are increasingly popular these days. Counter to popular belief, stone-faced countertops are rather delicate. Acid etches marble, and anything greasy stains granite. To clean marble and granite, start with the don'ts: Never use anything abrasive. Instead, wash with a few drops of plain or antibacterial dishwashing liquid on a damp
sponge. Rinse the surface completely with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Or buy a cleaner formulated for stone from your supplier.
Here are some more tips on maintaining your stone countertop:
Blot up spills pronto with paper towels. Don't wipe--that only makes it worse. Flush the spot with warm water and mild soap, rinsing several times before drying with a soft cloth.
Use coasters, trivets, or place mats under glassware and dishes to protect surfaces from scratching. Heat damages marble, so never set anything hot on it.
Stone countertops are sometimes sealed with a penetrating commercial sealant. Make sure that wherever you prepare food, the sealant is nontoxic. Salad oil is an effective nontoxic and homespun coating for food preparation areas.
Engineered stone usually resembles granite but requires no sealant and little extra care. Wash with soap and water, an all-purpose cleaner such as Formula 409, or a window cleaner such as Cinch.
See also Granite and Marble
Crayon Marks
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Lavish on them all the pads of paper in the world, and still crayon-wielding youngsters will be mysteriously attracted to the walls of your home. Pint-sized artists are also known to leave their mark on clothing, furniture, carpet, and other flooring. And crayons can make a mess of the dryer where, forgotten in a pocket, they can melt and stain clothing.
To remove crayon from most smooth surfaces, be they painted walls, glass, metal, tile, marble, or porcelain, spray the marks with a penetrating lubricant (specifically, WD-40), soft cloth. The lubricant WD-40 is the weapon of choice when it comes to removing many crayon marks. It lifts off the stain by getting between the mark and the surface. Spray a little WD-40 first in an obscure spot to make sure it won't harm what you're cleaning. If that lubricant doesn't do the trick, dip a sponge into a solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water and wet the crayon mark, rubbing with a circular motion. Rinse with warm water, then air-dry.
then wipe with a
To banish crayon from clothing, place the fabric on paper towels, then spray with penetrating lubricant (again, WD-40). Spray more of the lubricant on a clean rag and apply it to both sides of the stain. Allow the lubricant to sit for two minutes. Then, using your fingers, rub 1 or 2 drops of dishwashing liquid into the stain on each side. Replace the paper towels as they absorb the crayon. Launder the clothing in the washer using the hottest water possible and the heavy soil setting.
Other approaches that you might try:
Use a light touch on the stain with a dry, soap-filled steel wool pad.
Or rub the stain gently with baking soda sprinkled on top of a damp sponge.
In a pinch, dab the spot with waterless hand cleaner (commonly used in industrial or shop area), then launder in a washer. Or pretreat the stain with hair spray before washing.
To remove crayon on upholstery and carpeting. Scrape up as much crayon as you can with a metal spoon or dull knife. Then wet the mark with WD-40 and let it stand five minutes. Apply elbow grease and a stiff-bristled brush, then wipe with paper towels. Spray again with WD-40. Dab 1 or 2 drops of dishwashing liquid onto the stain and work it in with the brush. Then wipe with a damp sponge. If the stain persists, repeat. Or use a solvent spot cleaner, such as Energine Spot Remover, according to directions.
To remove crayon on floors, you use different methods depending on the type.
On vinyl no-wax flooring, use silver polish. Rinse well with water and dry with a paper towel.
On a wood floor, give a crayon mark the Ice Age treatment: Place an ice-filled plastic bag on the mark to make it brittle, then scrape with a spoon or dull knife. Or place a clean rag on the mark and heat it with an iron (no steam). /The rag will soak up the melted wax.
Crystal
Lavish on them all the pads of paper in the world, and still crayon-wielding youngsters will be mysteriously attracted to the walls of your home. Pint-sized artists are also known to leave their mark on clothing, furniture, carpet, and other flooring. And crayons can make a mess of the dryer where, forgotten in a pocket, they can melt and stain clothing.
To remove crayon from most smooth surfaces, be they painted walls, glass, metal, tile, marble, or porcelain, spray the marks with a penetrating lubricant (specifically, WD-40), soft cloth. The lubricant WD-40 is the weapon of choice when it comes to removing many crayon marks. It lifts off the stain by getting between the mark and the surface. Spray a little WD-40 first in an obscure spot to make sure it won't harm what you're cleaning. If that lubricant doesn't do the trick, dip a sponge into a solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water and wet the crayon mark, rubbing with a circular motion. Rinse with warm water, then air-dry.
To banish crayon from clothing, place the fabric on paper towels, then spray with penetrating lubricant (again, WD-40). Spray more of the lubricant on a clean rag and apply it to both sides of the stain. Allow the lubricant to sit for two minutes. Then, using your fingers, rub 1 or 2 drops of dishwashing liquid into the stain on each side. Replace the paper towels as they absorb the crayon. Launder the clothing in the washer using the hottest water possible and the heavy soil setting.
Other approaches that you might try:
Use a light touch on the stain with a dry, soap-filled steel wool pad.
Or rub the stain gently with baking soda sprinkled on top of a damp sponge.
In a pinch, dab the spot with waterless hand cleaner (commonly used in industrial or shop area), then launder in a washer. Or pretreat the stain with hair spray before washing.
To remove crayon on upholstery and carpeting. Scrape up as much crayon as you can with a metal spoon or dull knife. Then wet the mark with WD-40 and let it stand five minutes. Apply elbow grease and a stiff-bristled brush, then wipe with paper towels. Spray again with WD-40. Dab 1 or 2 drops of dishwashing liquid onto the stain and work it in with the brush. Then wipe with a damp sponge. If the stain persists, repeat. Or use a solvent spot cleaner, such as Energine Spot Remover, according to directions.
To remove crayon on floors, you use different methods depending on the type.
On vinyl no-wax flooring, use silver polish. Rinse well with water and dry with a paper towel.
On a wood floor, give a crayon mark the Ice Age treatment: Place an ice-filled plastic bag on the mark to make it brittle, then scrape with a spoon or dull knife. Or place a clean rag on the mark and heat it with an iron (no steam). /The rag will soak up the melted wax.
Crystal
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Let's make one thing crystal-clear: Never put crystal in the dishwasher. Crystal is too fragile and soft for the dual action of dishwasher and detergent, which can etch and dull its surface.
To preserve the special sparkle of crystal, always hand-wash it--unless it has silver or gold glit, in which case you should use warm water only, no soap.
To wash crystal, line at bottom of your sink with a doubled-up towel or rubber mat, fill the sink with warm water--not hot--and add 2 or 3 drops or dishwashing liqud. Wash one item at a time. Grasp stemware by the bowl, not the stem, and wash gently. A bartender's trick is to pump the glass up and down in warm water to rinse. Dry upside down on a lint-free cotton towel or vinyl dish rack. Better yet, put clean thick gloves or cotton socks over your hands and dry the crystal immediately with an old linen towel. This way, you'll leave no fingerprints or watermarks.
To remove stains, try this three-pronged approach:
First, mix a paste of lemon juice and baking powder ( a finer grind than baking soda) and rub gently on the crystal with a sponge, then wash and dry. (Baking powder is about as abrasive as you can get with crystal without risking damage.)
Tougher stains may be "riced"; Put 2 teaspoons of uncooked rice into the crystal piece, add water, and swirl. Repeat, if need be.
For stubborn stains, fill the crystal receptacle with warm water and drop in a denture tablet.
Here are some more crystal-cleaning tricks worth considering:
Try the conservator's way of cleaning crystal: Mix equal parts ethanol (otherwise known as grain alcohol or denatured alcohol) and water. Then add a few drops of ammonia. Apply the solution to the crystal with cotton cosmetic pads or those lint-free pads you use to clean a fax machine. /Rinse and dry. (Don't try this on gilded crystal.)
To dry a decanter or vase, use a handheld blow-dryer (cool setting). Otherwise, it can take three or four days to air-dry a decanter without the stopper.
For extra shine, add 1/4 cup of borax, white vinegar, or lemon juice to the rinse water.
To wash the grooves of cut crystal, dip a frayed toothbrush into vinegar, lemon juice, or soapy water and scrub.
expert advice
Make-Your-Own Bottle Brush >
For crystal with a thin, delicate neck too narrow for a bottle brush, staigthten a wire coat hanger and wrap each end with terry cloth rags secured with rubber bands. So advises Liam Sullivan, restoration expert with Replacements, Ltd., a replacement and repair service for china, crystal, silver, and other
collectibles in Greensboro, North Carolina. Dampen one end and rub inside. Use the other to dry.
Let's make one thing crystal-clear: Never put crystal in the dishwasher. Crystal is too fragile and soft for the dual action of dishwasher and detergent, which can etch and dull its surface.
To wash crystal, line at bottom of your sink with a doubled-up towel or rubber mat, fill the sink with warm water--not hot--and add 2 or 3 drops or dishwashing liqud. Wash one item at a time. Grasp stemware by the bowl, not the stem, and wash gently. A bartender's trick is to pump the glass up and down in warm water to rinse. Dry upside down on a lint-free cotton towel or vinyl dish rack. Better yet, put clean thick gloves or cotton socks over your hands and dry the crystal immediately with an old linen towel. This way, you'll leave no fingerprints or watermarks.
To remove stains, try this three-pronged approach:
First, mix a paste of lemon juice and baking powder ( a finer grind than baking soda) and rub gently on the crystal with a sponge, then wash and dry. (Baking powder is about as abrasive as you can get with crystal without risking damage.)
Tougher stains may be "riced"; Put 2 teaspoons of uncooked rice into the crystal piece, add water, and swirl. Repeat, if need be.
For stubborn stains, fill the crystal receptacle with warm water and drop in a denture tablet.
Here are some more crystal-cleaning tricks worth considering:
Try the conservator's way of cleaning crystal: Mix equal parts ethanol (otherwise known as grain alcohol or denatured alcohol) and water. Then add a few drops of ammonia. Apply the solution to the crystal with cotton cosmetic pads or those lint-free pads you use to clean a fax machine. /Rinse and dry. (Don't try this on gilded crystal.)
To dry a decanter or vase, use a handheld blow-dryer (cool setting). Otherwise, it can take three or four days to air-dry a decanter without the stopper.
For extra shine, add 1/4 cup of borax, white vinegar, or lemon juice to the rinse water.
To wash the grooves of cut crystal, dip a frayed toothbrush into vinegar, lemon juice, or soapy water and scrub.
expert advice
Make-Your-Own Bottle Brush >
For crystal with a thin, delicate neck too narrow for a bottle brush, staigthten a wire coat hanger and wrap each end with terry cloth rags secured with rubber bands. So advises Liam Sullivan, restoration expert with Replacements, Ltd., a replacement and repair service for china, crystal, silver, and other
collectibles in Greensboro, North Carolina. Dampen one end and rub inside. Use the other to dry.
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