Greenhouses
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Think of your greenhouse as a hospital--the cleaner it is, the plants housed here. Dust, debris, and clutter are magnets for insects, diseases, and harmful microorganisms. Dirty windows block the sun's rejuvenating light. But you don't have to go so far as to garden in sanitary scrubs. Just follow this regimen, and your plants will have a healthy environment in which to thrive.
Dust your plants to remove fungal spores (such as gray mold and powdery mildews) and mites (such as the omnivorous spider mite.) Most people hose off their plants, which is fine but tends to unsettle and spread the dust. An easier--and more effective--method is to vacuum them. Use a shop vacuum with a dusting attachment. This works best on sturdy leaves that you can hold in your hand while you quickly whisk the brush over the surface. Once a year is enough to halt the growth of the plant predators mentioned above.
Cut down on clutter in your greenhouse. Piles of dead plants, stacks of dirty pots, and sacks spilling over with potting soil can all be places for insects and microorganisms to spend the winter. Remove all of these things--and any other clutter--regularly. Try not to pile them right next to the greenhouse. Either get rid of them or store them in a shed, garage, or basement. Dead plant material is the worst offender. Purge dead plants and routinely pick up dead leaves.
Keep your greenhouses weed-free to get rid of yet another source of food for insects and bacteria. Weeds also boost a greenhouse's humidity level, which will make conditions even riper for disease and pestilence. Keep a sack of hydrated lime on hand (but don't clutter up the greenhouse with it.) Sprinkle it under benches and in corners to deter weed growth. It lasts for a long time and is nontoxic to humans. You can buy hydrated lime at your hardware store or the local feed and seed store.
Never use herbicides in your greenhouse.(See the Oops below)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OOPS!
Greenhouses Gases >
Steve Nameth, Ph. D., an Ohio State University plant pathologists, says that every year he hears about some well-meaning gardener who is so hell-bent on killing weeds that he nearly kills himself.
"They'll spray herbicides, or they'll pour gasoline on weeds inside the greenhouse, and when they come back three hours later, it looks like Armageddon hit," Nameth says.
"Those things are so volatile that on a hot day, the fumes will kill every plant in the greenhouse. The homeowners won't be able to go back in their greenhouse for weeks."
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Guns
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If you care about gun performance and shooting accuracy--and what gun owner doesn't?--keeping your gun clean is a top priority. Here's the reason: There's a tiny twisting groove (called the rifling) cut along the inside of the barrel, or bore, of rifles and most handguns. That groove is what keeps, the rounds you fire on a straight course. When gunpowder and lead or copper residue build up in these grooves, they don't work as well--which might cause you to miss that 12-point buck next season. Of course, cleaning guns properly will help them last a lifetime or longer. Considering what they cost, that alone is not a bad incentive to clean.
The best time to clean a firearm is right after you use it. Remove all shells from the chamber or magazine. Be absolutely sure it's not loaded. If immediate cleaning isn't possible, at least wipe down the outside using a cloth and some sort of oil or spray lubricant. The salts in your fingerprints can corrode the metal.
To protect parts while cleaning, spread a cloth or old towel over your work surface. When cleaning, don't disassemble your gun too far. you might accidentally put in back together wrong, which could lead to a dangerous misfire. As a rule of thumb, break it down only to the point needed to reach areas where powder residue and fouling accumulate. Depending on the type of gun, this usually includes the bore, chamber, and bolt. Check once again to make sure that the gun is not loaded. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Having the appropriate cleaning tools is especially important with guns. Buy a gun cleaning kit, which should include a cleaning rod, cleaning solvent, oil, rod-end accessories, brushes, and cleaning patches. If you have more than one firearm, make sure to get a universal cleaning kit.Clean your gun from breech to muzzle--in the same direction that the bullet travels. Open the breech end of rifles or remove the bolt. With handguns, either open the cylinder or remove the action. With shotguns, you can usually open the breech or remove the action. With shotguns, you can usually open the breech or remove the barrel. With some shotguns, cleaning from the breech or remove the barrel. With some shotguns, cleaning from the breech end is not possible, but because shotguns don't usually have the spiraling groove down the bore, it's not as important. Just try not to push debris into the action.
The first step in cleaning the barrel is to choose the largest patch holder that will easily fit into the barrel. Attach it to the end of the cleaning rod and insert a cleaning patch in it. Saturate the patch with gun cleaning solvent (included in the kit or available at gun stores; you can also use an all-purpose penetrating solvent, such as WD-40). Run the patch through the bore once and remove the soiled patch as it exits the front end of the bore before pulling the rod back out. (pulling a dirty patch back through a barrel can redeposit fouling and draw debris into the action.) Let the solvent soak a few minutes to remove any lead or carbon buildup. Remove the patch-holder accessory from the end of the road. Wipe the rod clean with a solvent-moistened rag.
The next step in cleaning the barrel is to attach the appropriate sized bore brush (nylon is less damaging to the gun than a metal brush) and soak it with solvent. Work it back and forth in the bore half a dozen times. Remove it and reattach the patch holder to the rod with a newly soaked patch. Repeat step one--running a patch down the bore and removing it--until a patch emerges from the
bore unsoiled. Attach a new patch or the kit's cotton mop to the rod and put a few drops of oil on it. Run it down the bore to lightly coat the inside with oil and prevent rusting. Too much oil will gum up the spiraling groove you just cleaned.
To clean the action, dip a nylon brush (if not included in the kit, a toothbrush will do) in solvent and gently scrub away all the unburned powder and debris. When the action is clean, wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Then lightly coat the action with rust-preventing oil on a rag.
Reassemble the gun, wiping down any parts that you have touched-stock included-with a silicone-impregnated cloth, available at gun stores. If you don't have the silicone cloth, buff fingerprints off with a dry cloth. Don't wipe down the exterior with oil, because it will attract dust.
Gutters and Downspouts
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Water is your home's worst enemy, and along with your roof, your gutter system is your best line of defense. But gutter sand downspouts must be clean to work properly and not succumb to water's attack themselves. In fact, a plugged gutter is worse than no gutter can damage the fascia boards under your roof; and in winter, collected water can freeze and crack downspouts and gutters. So as much as you might groan about it, cleaning gutters is a must-do chore. If planned well, you'll have to do it only once or twice a year.
Clean out your gutters any time they are backed up.heavy work gloves (as thorns and roofing nails end up in gutters). Use a ladder tall enough to reach the gutters safely. Have a buddy on hand to hold the ladder, and take your time, moving it each time you need to reach a new section of gutter. Begin at the downspout and work your way to the other end, scooping the leaves and twigs that have collected there.
To make your own gutter scoop, cut the bottom off an empty plastic jug that has a rectangular shape--the kind that motor oil comes in. Or just use your glove hand to remove the gunk. Don't scrape the inside of the gutters with any sharp tools--spades, putty knives, or the like--because you might damage the metal. If you feel the need to scrape, try scrubbing instead with a nylon-bristled brush.
Flush the gutter with a garden hose once you've removed all the debris. plumber's snake down the pipe. You can rent one at an equipment rental store.
Make a gutter bucket, too. A gutter bucket is a handy tool to help with cleaning gutters, and it's easy to make. Take a plastic bucket with an all-metal handle. Using wire cutters, make a cut in the middle of the handle. Bend each end of the handle into a hook shape, turn the hooks toward the same side of the bucket, and hang the bucket from the gutter. Dump the leaves and such from your gutter into the bucket, rather than dropping the mess into the shrubbery below or onto your spouse's head. When the bucket's full, climb down and empty it on your mulch pile. Soggy leaves make a great garden additive.
Clean the outside of the gutters with a cleaning solution. This is not important for the functioning of the gutters, but it will make them look crisp and new and help keep them in good shape.
For removing dirt, mix 1/3 cup laundry detergent, 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate, and 1 gallon of warm water.
For mildew and algae, mix 1/3 cup detergent, 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate, and 1 quart bleach with 3 quarts water.
In either case, put on rubber gloves, wipe the solution on with a rag, and rinse with a garden hose.
(Flushing before scooping is a no-no, because you'll probably clog the downspout.) If the downspout is clogged, push the hose down into it to clear the pileup. If that does not work, try pushing the hose into the pipe from the bottom end. Dismantle the gutter if you have to. As a last resort, you may need to fish a
Usually this is in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, and in the spring, after the heaviest pollen and catkins (those fuzzy, flowerlike things that grow on willows and other trees) have dropped. Wear
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Think of your greenhouse as a hospital--the cleaner it is, the plants housed here. Dust, debris, and clutter are magnets for insects, diseases, and harmful microorganisms. Dirty windows block the sun's rejuvenating light. But you don't have to go so far as to garden in sanitary scrubs. Just follow this regimen, and your plants will have a healthy environment in which to thrive.
Dust your plants to remove fungal spores (such as gray mold and powdery mildews) and mites (such as the omnivorous spider mite.) Most people hose off their plants, which is fine but tends to unsettle and spread the dust. An easier--and more effective--method is to vacuum them. Use a shop vacuum with a dusting attachment. This works best on sturdy leaves that you can hold in your hand while you quickly whisk the brush over the surface. Once a year is enough to halt the growth of the plant predators mentioned above.
Cut down on clutter in your greenhouse. Piles of dead plants, stacks of dirty pots, and sacks spilling over with potting soil can all be places for insects and microorganisms to spend the winter. Remove all of these things--and any other clutter--regularly. Try not to pile them right next to the greenhouse. Either get rid of them or store them in a shed, garage, or basement. Dead plant material is the worst offender. Purge dead plants and routinely pick up dead leaves.
Keep your greenhouses weed-free to get rid of yet another source of food for insects and bacteria. Weeds also boost a greenhouse's humidity level, which will make conditions even riper for disease and pestilence. Keep a sack of hydrated lime on hand (but don't clutter up the greenhouse with it.) Sprinkle it under benches and in corners to deter weed growth. It lasts for a long time and is nontoxic to humans. You can buy hydrated lime at your hardware store or the local feed and seed store.
Never use herbicides in your greenhouse.(See the Oops below)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
OOPS!
Greenhouses Gases >
Steve Nameth, Ph. D., an Ohio State University plant pathologists, says that every year he hears about some well-meaning gardener who is so hell-bent on killing weeds that he nearly kills himself.
"They'll spray herbicides, or they'll pour gasoline on weeds inside the greenhouse, and when they come back three hours later, it looks like Armageddon hit," Nameth says.
"Those things are so volatile that on a hot day, the fumes will kill every plant in the greenhouse. The homeowners won't be able to go back in their greenhouse for weeks."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Guns
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you care about gun performance and shooting accuracy--and what gun owner doesn't?--keeping your gun clean is a top priority. Here's the reason: There's a tiny twisting groove (called the rifling) cut along the inside of the barrel, or bore, of rifles and most handguns. That groove is what keeps, the rounds you fire on a straight course. When gunpowder and lead or copper residue build up in these grooves, they don't work as well--which might cause you to miss that 12-point buck next season. Of course, cleaning guns properly will help them last a lifetime or longer. Considering what they cost, that alone is not a bad incentive to clean.
The best time to clean a firearm is right after you use it. Remove all shells from the chamber or magazine. Be absolutely sure it's not loaded. If immediate cleaning isn't possible, at least wipe down the outside using a cloth and some sort of oil or spray lubricant. The salts in your fingerprints can corrode the metal.
To protect parts while cleaning, spread a cloth or old towel over your work surface. When cleaning, don't disassemble your gun too far. you might accidentally put in back together wrong, which could lead to a dangerous misfire. As a rule of thumb, break it down only to the point needed to reach areas where powder residue and fouling accumulate. Depending on the type of gun, this usually includes the bore, chamber, and bolt. Check once again to make sure that the gun is not loaded. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Having the appropriate cleaning tools is especially important with guns. Buy a gun cleaning kit, which should include a cleaning rod, cleaning solvent, oil, rod-end accessories, brushes, and cleaning patches. If you have more than one firearm, make sure to get a universal cleaning kit.Clean your gun from breech to muzzle--in the same direction that the bullet travels. Open the breech end of rifles or remove the bolt. With handguns, either open the cylinder or remove the action. With shotguns, you can usually open the breech or remove the action. With shotguns, you can usually open the breech or remove the barrel. With some shotguns, cleaning from the breech or remove the barrel. With some shotguns, cleaning from the breech end is not possible, but because shotguns don't usually have the spiraling groove down the bore, it's not as important. Just try not to push debris into the action.
The first step in cleaning the barrel is to choose the largest patch holder that will easily fit into the barrel. Attach it to the end of the cleaning rod and insert a cleaning patch in it. Saturate the patch with gun cleaning solvent (included in the kit or available at gun stores; you can also use an all-purpose penetrating solvent, such as WD-40). Run the patch through the bore once and remove the soiled patch as it exits the front end of the bore before pulling the rod back out. (pulling a dirty patch back through a barrel can redeposit fouling and draw debris into the action.) Let the solvent soak a few minutes to remove any lead or carbon buildup. Remove the patch-holder accessory from the end of the road. Wipe the rod clean with a solvent-moistened rag.
The next step in cleaning the barrel is to attach the appropriate sized bore brush (nylon is less damaging to the gun than a metal brush) and soak it with solvent. Work it back and forth in the bore half a dozen times. Remove it and reattach the patch holder to the rod with a newly soaked patch. Repeat step one--running a patch down the bore and removing it--until a patch emerges from the
bore unsoiled. Attach a new patch or the kit's cotton mop to the rod and put a few drops of oil on it. Run it down the bore to lightly coat the inside with oil and prevent rusting. Too much oil will gum up the spiraling groove you just cleaned.
To clean the action, dip a nylon brush (if not included in the kit, a toothbrush will do) in solvent and gently scrub away all the unburned powder and debris. When the action is clean, wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Then lightly coat the action with rust-preventing oil on a rag.
Reassemble the gun, wiping down any parts that you have touched-stock included-with a silicone-impregnated cloth, available at gun stores. If you don't have the silicone cloth, buff fingerprints off with a dry cloth. Don't wipe down the exterior with oil, because it will attract dust.
Gutters and Downspouts
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Water is your home's worst enemy, and along with your roof, your gutter system is your best line of defense. But gutter sand downspouts must be clean to work properly and not succumb to water's attack themselves. In fact, a plugged gutter is worse than no gutter can damage the fascia boards under your roof; and in winter, collected water can freeze and crack downspouts and gutters. So as much as you might groan about it, cleaning gutters is a must-do chore. If planned well, you'll have to do it only once or twice a year.
Clean out your gutters any time they are backed up.heavy work gloves (as thorns and roofing nails end up in gutters). Use a ladder tall enough to reach the gutters safely. Have a buddy on hand to hold the ladder, and take your time, moving it each time you need to reach a new section of gutter. Begin at the downspout and work your way to the other end, scooping the leaves and twigs that have collected there.
To make your own gutter scoop, cut the bottom off an empty plastic jug that has a rectangular shape--the kind that motor oil comes in. Or just use your glove hand to remove the gunk. Don't scrape the inside of the gutters with any sharp tools--spades, putty knives, or the like--because you might damage the metal. If you feel the need to scrape, try scrubbing instead with a nylon-bristled brush.
Flush the gutter with a garden hose once you've removed all the debris. plumber's snake down the pipe. You can rent one at an equipment rental store.
Make a gutter bucket, too. A gutter bucket is a handy tool to help with cleaning gutters, and it's easy to make. Take a plastic bucket with an all-metal handle. Using wire cutters, make a cut in the middle of the handle. Bend each end of the handle into a hook shape, turn the hooks toward the same side of the bucket, and hang the bucket from the gutter. Dump the leaves and such from your gutter into the bucket, rather than dropping the mess into the shrubbery below or onto your spouse's head. When the bucket's full, climb down and empty it on your mulch pile. Soggy leaves make a great garden additive.
Clean the outside of the gutters with a cleaning solution. This is not important for the functioning of the gutters, but it will make them look crisp and new and help keep them in good shape.
For removing dirt, mix 1/3 cup laundry detergent, 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate, and 1 gallon of warm water.
For mildew and algae, mix 1/3 cup detergent, 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate, and 1 quart bleach with 3 quarts water.
In either case, put on rubber gloves, wipe the solution on with a rag, and rinse with a garden hose.
Usually this is in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, and in the spring, after the heaviest pollen and catkins (those fuzzy, flowerlike things that grow on willows and other trees) have dropped. Wear
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