Friday, July 31, 2015

Everyday Cleaning--Saddles and Tack

Saddles and Tack:
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How often you clean saddles and tack depends on how often you use them. At a minimum, saddle up to clean and condition them at least twice a year--more often, if you're caught in the rain or live in a cold climate. which can leach natural oils from leather and cause dry rot to take tower over.

To clean a saddle, use saddle soap or a sponge, and warm water to work up a foamy lather. stirrups, stirrup leathers, and fenders attract the most dirt, so pay particular attention to those, wiping them on both sides. If dirt is really ingrained, let the foamy saddle soap sit to soften it. Rinse off the soap--and be sure to do it thoroughly. (If you leave soap residue on the leather, it will attract rather than repel dirt.) Use toothpicks to lift out dirt on deeply tooled leather.
  Allow the saddle to air-dry overnight, but not in the sun, where it could try out too much. Then condition the leather lightly: On western saddles, see either pure neat's-foot oil (a light yellow oil made from cattle shinbones and feet) or a leather conditioner, such as Lexol. Remember that neat's foot (or any other oil, for that matter) will darken the leather. On English sladdes, use a leather dressing, such as Skidmore's Leather Cream, applied with a soft cloth. Don't miss the underside of the seat, fenders and (on Western saddles) jockeys, the pieces of leather underneath the seat of the saddle. Then buff with a clean, soft cloth to bring out the leather's natural shine.

To clean your tack,
use the same general technique as with saddles, but be sure to take it apart first. Bits must be taken off the headstall and reins, for instance. Brush off any loose dirt with a rag or soft brush.

Storing your saddle and tack is also important
  • Store a saddle on a rack with air circulating freely.
  • To preserve that characteristic twist in the leather scrap that connects Western-style stirrups to the saddle, turn the stirrups, in the correct direction and then insert a wooden dowel through one stirrup, under the saddle, and through the other stirrup.
  • Hang bridles and halters on a rack shaped like a horse's head (Nail or hooks can cause leather to bend and weaken.)
  • Finally, leave dirt in the dust by shrouding your saddle with a dust cover.

Satin
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Cleaning satin is tricky because this shiny fabric picks up and shows grease and other stains so easily.

If you a get a greasy stain on satin of any kind-be it on blanket blinding, satin sheets, pillows, holiday decorations, or other items---try blotting (don't rub!) the stain first with a clean white rag. Then cover the stain with flour or cornmeal. Let it sit for an hour. The milled grain should absorb most of the stain. Gently brush the fabric with a soft-bristled brush and launder a washable item according to the instructions on the fabric care label. If a blanket is washable, its binding is too. Treat stains first with a pre-wash stain remover. If an item is not washable, take it to a dry cleaner.

Satin sheets are a little trickier to care for because there are several types.
  • If you have woven acetate sheets or silk satin sheets, dry-clean them, or hand-wash them in a laundry tub or bathtub in room temperature water and a gentle fabric wash such as Woolite. Hand-wring gently, wrapping up the sheet in an absorbent white towel, and hang to dry.
  • Polyester and nylon satin sheets are more durable. You may machine-wash them, but hands-washing will keep pilling to a minimum. If you are putting them in a washing machine, use warm or cool water and very little detergent. Never use bleach. Put in the dryer on the lowest setting. Never line dry nylon sheets in the sun.

To clean satin pillows and holiday decorations, vacuum them using the soft brush attachment. Give greasy stains the flour or cornmeal treatment described above. If stains persist, launder a satin pillow only if its cover comes off. It's best to dry-clean stain holiday decorations, as well as stain curtains, bedspreads, and comforters. Differences in their linings may cause the fabrics to dry differently.

WATCH OUT
  • Shield sheets made of silk and nylon from the sun. Never line dry nylon satin sheets, for sun is nylon's public enemy No. 1. If your bedroom is sunny, choose acetate or polyester satin.
  • Never dry woven acetate sheets in a dryer.
  • Be especially careful when wringing silk satin sheets--silk is usually thin and tears easily.

Scissors
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To keep scissors on the cutting edge, it's important to clean them. Buy different kinds of scissors for different tasks: a pair for cutting paper and for craft projects, another pair for working with fabric, scissors for snipping hair, and so on.

To keep your scissors cutting smoothly, wipe the blades after each use with a soft rag. This prevents lint and other stuff from getting caught in the blade pivot area, where it can interfere with the performances of your scissors.
  Oil scissors occasionally as the pivot area (around the screw as head and between the blades) sing a penetrating lubricant, such as WD-40. Never use vegetable oil or any other oil that attracts dirt and gets gummy. Gently work the blades a few times to force the lubricant into the joint.

Simple SOLUTIONS


Watch How You Use Pinking Shears >

Prolong the life of pinking shears by being sure there is always fabric between the blades when you cut. Never open or close the blades without fabric in between.
 
If your scissors get dirty, wash them in dishwashing liquid and water, removing any sticky stuff with lighter fluid. Dry scissors thoroughly with a soft cloth before storing them.

If your scissors get rusty, soak them first in white vinegar. Then use fine sandpaper on the handles and blades, being careful to avoid the cutting edges. Store scissors in a dry, cool, clean place.

To keep those blades sharp, some scissors makers recommended using sharpeners. Most experts, however, suggest that you take them to a professional.

expert advice

Getting Screens in the Right Windows
  >

Number your screens, so you'll be able to tell which goes where. Put a number to each window frame, in a hidden spot, and then write to scratch the corresponding number on its screen frame.
To clean hair-cutting scissors, try these steps for shear delight:
  • Wipe the blades clean after each use with a clean, soft cloth. Or use a silicone cloth, available anywhere you buy hunting gear, which leaves a welcome (and protective) film.
  • Spray scissors occasionally with an antibacterial solution (Barbicide, for instance, or see Combs for a home recipe.) Dry completely.
  • Oil the pivot with light shear oil or clipper oil, available at beauty or barber supply stores. An acceptable substitute is light gun oil. When it's time to stash your shears, close the blades and store the scissors somewhere dry.

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