Elastic
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You probably can count on one hand the items of clothing you own that don't have elastic. Whether it's underwear or socks, exercise gear or cruise wear, almost everything these days has at least a hint of elastic or an elastic derivative, such as spandex.
To keep your elastic clean and in good shape, launder frequently in a washing machine, using warm water (100 degrees F is deal, for you preciseniks). Whatever the item, if it touches your body, your body oils will get on it. Body oils can damage elastic, and cold water will never get the body oils out completely, meaning your elastic will break down over time. Regular laundry detergent is all you need if the water you use is nice and warm. If you must bleach, use only nonchlorine bleach. And if there's a particular stain you're worried about, let it sit for 15 minutes in an enzyme presoak, such as Biz.
To maintain the life of elastic, dry on a low setting and don't overdry. You don't want your stretchy stuff to become crunchy.
Electric Grills
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Although the grills named after boxer George Foreman are the best known, there are several makes of countertop grills. When attempting to clean anything that has a cord or that begins with the word electric, make sure the unit is unplugged before you even turn on the water. Otherwise, a dirty grill could be the least of your worries. The grilling surface requires the most thorough cleaning, unless you don't mind dried bits of last week's chicken breasts on thisweek's T-bone. If you're cleaning the grill right after cooking on it, make sure the surfaces have cooled first. You don't want any barbecued sponges--or fingers. On the other hand, a grill is easiest to clean when it is still slightly warm, before
food particles harden.
If the grilling surface is not removable, don't immerse the unit in water.(Some electric grills have parts can be safely cleaned in the dishwasher.) Most electric grills are one-piece models that typically come with a nonstick finish and are meant for countertop use. Many have a long plastic drip tray
for catching grease, as well as a plastic cleaning spatula contoured to fit over the ribbed grilling surface. The spatula is handy for scraping charred food particles off the grilling surface and into the drip tray. Once you have dispensed with the larger bits of food, wipe the ribbed grilling surface with a damp sponge or cloth--not a wet one. To tackle especially sticky stuff, put a little dishwashing detergent on the sponge. Be sure to rinse the sponge frequently, since it will get grimy quickly. Follow the sponging step with a few swipes of a damp cloth--again not a wet one--to get rid of as much moisture as possible.
After disposing of the collected grease, waste the plastic drip tray with dishwashing detergent and a wet sponge. If the spatula has collected a thick layer of greasy, charred food, soak it for a few minutes in warm water with a squirt of dishwashing detergent, then wipe it clean it with a scrubber sponge. Rinse the drip tray and spatula with running water and let them air-dry.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Let Your Suit Take an Extra Dip >
Wash a swimsuit after every wearing. Rinse first to remove chlorine, salt, body oils, sweat, and sunscreen. Then snap snaps, buckle buckles, tie ties, and zip zippers before you toss your suit into the washer so it will retain its original shape.
To clean the outside of an electric grill, firt remove the grilling surface (if it's removable) and leave it out while you attack the other surfaces. A quick wipe of the exterior with a damp sponge will take care of most grease splatters. An alternative: Clean the outside casing with a waterless hand cleaner, such as Goop, by first eliminating surface dirt with dry paper towels and then applying a little of the hand cleaner to a clean paper towel, rubbing the exterior in small circular motions.
Let the cleaned grill air-dry or, if you need to accelerate the drying process, use a hair dryer on a low setting. Make sure the grill is perfectly dry before you plug it in again.
To clean a hibachi style electric grill--one that has a grilling rack like a coventional charcoal grill-unplug it, let it cool, and dismantle it according to your owner's manual. With the electrical elements set aside, wash the grilling rack, the lid, and the metal or ceramic basin in warm water with a squirt of dishwashing liquid. Scrub as needed with a nylon cleaning pad. Wipe any plastic parts
with a soft cloth dipped in the water-and-detergent solution. Rinse with fresh water.
Do not immerse the electronic parts in water. If needed, wipe the heating element with a soft cloth or soft brush, taking care not to scratch the surface.
Electric Shavers
It's human natu share. You haven't see that teeny brush that came with your electric shaver since you opened the package on your birthday two years ago.
To keep your shaver in proper running order, brush it after each use to dislodge the whisker dust, dead, skin and other stuff that's clogging the works and damaging the blades. Many shavers have a removable head cover. Pop it off and brush the underside, avoiding the delicate screen. If you've lost the tiny brush that came with your shaver, use a small tooth brush (one that's retired from dental duties, please).
Now your shaver is running like the Little Engine That Couldn't.
Then remove the shaving head and gently brush the cutting mechanism itself. A blast from a can of compressed air will also dislodge any embedded detritus that stands in the way of a smooth shave.
If you use a shave stick--a compressed powder product that dries up perspiration and facial oils to create a smoother shave--the powder can gum up your electric shaver blades.
To cure this, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and wipe the blades.
If your shaver requires more cleaning, it's time to go commercial. Some manufacturers of shaving goods sell an aerosol spray cleaner and lubricant for electric shavers. In general, you spray the cleaner on and run the shaver for several seconds. Follow the package directions.
To clean the exterior, unplug your shaver and wipe the surfaces with a damp washcloth. If anything insists on clinging to the outside, use a little alcohol to wipe it off.
Enamel
Imagine that instead of the glossy appliances and basins you use every day you had to make do with one or more rusting refrigerators, washing machines, stoves, ovens, grills, bathtubs, and sinks. That's what you'd have in a world without enamel. Enamel is a baked-on coating for metals that doesn't rust or react with acids or chemicals and is usually easy to clean. Enameled steel or enameled cast-iron cookware can be a little more of a challenge because of the heat-meets-food factor.
To clean enameled surfaces, such as appliance surfaces, dissolve 2 tablespoons of baking soda in 1 quart of warm water. wipe the surfaces with a cloth or sponge dipped in the solution and rinse with fresh water on a clean cloth or sponge. To remove cooked-on deposits, see Stoves.
To clean enameled cookware, let the pot cool first. Never begin your cleanup by putting cold water into a hot pot(or vice versa). Wash in hot water with dishwashing detergent, rinse in running
Simple SOLUTIONS
Burnt-On Food >
Even the best chefs face this problem. Cover the stuck-on food with baking soda and let the pan sit for several minutes while the soda absorbs the acids and oils. Then wash as usual. If the food still won't budge, add 1 quart of water and 2 teaspoons of baking soda to the pan, simmer for 15 minutes, and wash again.
water, and dry. Pots with metal or plastic handles may be washed in the dishwasher, but pots with wooden handles should not be. Never use an abrasive cleaner or metal scouring pad. A plastic or nylon scourer is fine.
To care for enameled cookware, remember:
Keep the cooking heat on low or medium except when boiling water.
Never subject an empty pot to high heat.
Use nonscratchy wooden or plastic cooking tools.
Erasers
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thousands of schools have employed the time-honored way of seeing to it that felt chalkboard erasers are clean: letting the students do it. Old-fashioned slate blackboards are a rarity now, but felt erasers still work fine on most newer boards--white boards, green boards, and dry-erase boards--depending on what type of marker is used.
The simplest method for cleaning felt erasers works as well now as it did in times past. Go outside, hold an eraser in each hand, and clap them together, trying to keep the chalk dust from invading your clothes and lungs. If you can't assign the job to a student, enlist a vacuum cleaner, which works quite well.
Erasers made for dry-erase boards should be cleaned with bar soap or dishwashing liquid under running water. Let them air-dry.
To clean a rubber pencil eraser, rub a emery board or piece of sandpaper over it until the black part that makes those awful smudges is gone. This method will also help rejuvenate an eraser that has become hard and brittle. The newly exposed rubber will be clean and soft.
expert advice
Cleaning Erasers by the Book >
The Grand Prairie Independent School District, in Texas, makes sure its students clean erasers the right way.
To keep them from beating the erasers on the sidewalk or the side of the building, they are given a piece of plywood about 1 foot by 2 feet.
The kids take the board outside, lean it against the building, and clap the erasers against that.
Exercise Equipment
For lots of people, cleaning gym equipment is as easy as removing the shirts hanging on the handlebars. But for those who actually use their stationary bikes, treadmills, or weight machines, the goal is to keep the equipment more than clutter free. You want it to remain sanitary and operating smoothly.
Wipe the perspiration off the equipment after you've finished using it, because the salt in your sweat is corrosive. This goes for all machines, especially those with metal parts. Wipe down control panels to keep moisture from seeping into them and ruining the sensitive electronics. To make it easier, keep a roll of paper towels handy in your workout room.
Every once in a while, wipe down the equipment with a sponge or cloth moistened with a bleach solution--1 to 2 ounces of bleach in 1 quart of water. This will kill any lingering germs.
OOPS!
walking on Sunshine >
Boston-based personal trainer Jeff Rutfield, Who recommends treating in your home gym equipment as you would a car by washing and waxing it, knows, someone who took his comparison too far.
"He used rubber and vinyl protectant Armor All on the belt of his treadmill," Rutfield said. It wasn't such a far-fetched thing to do, considering that the belt's rubber is similar to a tire's sidewall. And it worked--the belt was even shinier than when it was new.
However, Rutfield said, "The next time he used his treadmill, he went flying off." Armor All's one major drawback: It's slippery.
To clean a treadmill and keep it running properly, use your vacuum cleaner to clean under the machine every other week. Every three months, vacuum around the motor casing. Most people don't realize it, but dirt is the biggest killer of treadmill motors. Along those lines, here are two tips from a personal trainer:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You probably can count on one hand the items of clothing you own that don't have elastic. Whether it's underwear or socks, exercise gear or cruise wear, almost everything these days has at least a hint of elastic or an elastic derivative, such as spandex.
To keep your elastic clean and in good shape, launder frequently in a washing machine, using warm water (100 degrees F is deal, for you preciseniks). Whatever the item, if it touches your body, your body oils will get on it. Body oils can damage elastic, and cold water will never get the body oils out completely, meaning your elastic will break down over time. Regular laundry detergent is all you need if the water you use is nice and warm. If you must bleach, use only nonchlorine bleach. And if there's a particular stain you're worried about, let it sit for 15 minutes in an enzyme presoak, such as Biz.
To maintain the life of elastic, dry on a low setting and don't overdry. You don't want your stretchy stuff to become crunchy.
Electric Grills
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Although the grills named after boxer George Foreman are the best known, there are several makes of countertop grills. When attempting to clean anything that has a cord or that begins with the word electric, make sure the unit is unplugged before you even turn on the water. Otherwise, a dirty grill could be the least of your worries. The grilling surface requires the most thorough cleaning, unless you don't mind dried bits of last week's chicken breasts on thisweek's T-bone. If you're cleaning the grill right after cooking on it, make sure the surfaces have cooled first. You don't want any barbecued sponges--or fingers. On the other hand, a grill is easiest to clean when it is still slightly warm, before
food particles harden.
If the grilling surface is not removable, don't immerse the unit in water.(Some electric grills have parts can be safely cleaned in the dishwasher.) Most electric grills are one-piece models that typically come with a nonstick finish and are meant for countertop use. Many have a long plastic drip tray
for catching grease, as well as a plastic cleaning spatula contoured to fit over the ribbed grilling surface. The spatula is handy for scraping charred food particles off the grilling surface and into the drip tray. Once you have dispensed with the larger bits of food, wipe the ribbed grilling surface with a damp sponge or cloth--not a wet one. To tackle especially sticky stuff, put a little dishwashing detergent on the sponge. Be sure to rinse the sponge frequently, since it will get grimy quickly. Follow the sponging step with a few swipes of a damp cloth--again not a wet one--to get rid of as much moisture as possible.
After disposing of the collected grease, waste the plastic drip tray with dishwashing detergent and a wet sponge. If the spatula has collected a thick layer of greasy, charred food, soak it for a few minutes in warm water with a squirt of dishwashing detergent, then wipe it clean it with a scrubber sponge. Rinse the drip tray and spatula with running water and let them air-dry.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Let Your Suit Take an Extra Dip >
To clean the outside of an electric grill, firt remove the grilling surface (if it's removable) and leave it out while you attack the other surfaces. A quick wipe of the exterior with a damp sponge will take care of most grease splatters. An alternative: Clean the outside casing with a waterless hand cleaner, such as Goop, by first eliminating surface dirt with dry paper towels and then applying a little of the hand cleaner to a clean paper towel, rubbing the exterior in small circular motions.
Let the cleaned grill air-dry or, if you need to accelerate the drying process, use a hair dryer on a low setting. Make sure the grill is perfectly dry before you plug it in again.
To clean a hibachi style electric grill--one that has a grilling rack like a coventional charcoal grill-unplug it, let it cool, and dismantle it according to your owner's manual. With the electrical elements set aside, wash the grilling rack, the lid, and the metal or ceramic basin in warm water with a squirt of dishwashing liquid. Scrub as needed with a nylon cleaning pad. Wipe any plastic parts
with a soft cloth dipped in the water-and-detergent solution. Rinse with fresh water.
Do not immerse the electronic parts in water. If needed, wipe the heating element with a soft cloth or soft brush, taking care not to scratch the surface.
Electric Shavers
It's human natu share. You haven't see that teeny brush that came with your electric shaver since you opened the package on your birthday two years ago.
To keep your shaver in proper running order, brush it after each use to dislodge the whisker dust, dead, skin and other stuff that's clogging the works and damaging the blades. Many shavers have a removable head cover. Pop it off and brush the underside, avoiding the delicate screen. If you've lost the tiny brush that came with your shaver, use a small tooth brush (one that's retired from dental duties, please).
 |
| Clean with brush |
Then remove the shaving head and gently brush the cutting mechanism itself. A blast from a can of compressed air will also dislodge any embedded detritus that stands in the way of a smooth shave.
If you use a shave stick--a compressed powder product that dries up perspiration and facial oils to create a smoother shave--the powder can gum up your electric shaver blades.
To cure this, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and wipe the blades.
If your shaver requires more cleaning, it's time to go commercial. Some manufacturers of shaving goods sell an aerosol spray cleaner and lubricant for electric shavers. In general, you spray the cleaner on and run the shaver for several seconds. Follow the package directions.
To clean the exterior, unplug your shaver and wipe the surfaces with a damp washcloth. If anything insists on clinging to the outside, use a little alcohol to wipe it off.
Enamel
Imagine that instead of the glossy appliances and basins you use every day you had to make do with one or more rusting refrigerators, washing machines, stoves, ovens, grills, bathtubs, and sinks. That's what you'd have in a world without enamel. Enamel is a baked-on coating for metals that doesn't rust or react with acids or chemicals and is usually easy to clean. Enameled steel or enameled cast-iron cookware can be a little more of a challenge because of the heat-meets-food factor.
To clean enameled surfaces, such as appliance surfaces, dissolve 2 tablespoons of baking soda in 1 quart of warm water. wipe the surfaces with a cloth or sponge dipped in the solution and rinse with fresh water on a clean cloth or sponge. To remove cooked-on deposits, see Stoves.
To clean enameled cookware, let the pot cool first. Never begin your cleanup by putting cold water into a hot pot(or vice versa). Wash in hot water with dishwashing detergent, rinse in running
Simple SOLUTIONS
Burnt-On Food >
water, and dry. Pots with metal or plastic handles may be washed in the dishwasher, but pots with wooden handles should not be. Never use an abrasive cleaner or metal scouring pad. A plastic or nylon scourer is fine.
To care for enameled cookware, remember:
Keep the cooking heat on low or medium except when boiling water.
Never subject an empty pot to high heat.
Use nonscratchy wooden or plastic cooking tools.
Erasers
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thousands of schools have employed the time-honored way of seeing to it that felt chalkboard erasers are clean: letting the students do it. Old-fashioned slate blackboards are a rarity now, but felt erasers still work fine on most newer boards--white boards, green boards, and dry-erase boards--depending on what type of marker is used.
The simplest method for cleaning felt erasers works as well now as it did in times past. Go outside, hold an eraser in each hand, and clap them together, trying to keep the chalk dust from invading your clothes and lungs. If you can't assign the job to a student, enlist a vacuum cleaner, which works quite well.
Erasers made for dry-erase boards should be cleaned with bar soap or dishwashing liquid under running water. Let them air-dry.
To clean a rubber pencil eraser, rub a emery board or piece of sandpaper over it until the black part that makes those awful smudges is gone. This method will also help rejuvenate an eraser that has become hard and brittle. The newly exposed rubber will be clean and soft.
expert advice
Cleaning Erasers by the Book >
To keep them from beating the erasers on the sidewalk or the side of the building, they are given a piece of plywood about 1 foot by 2 feet.
The kids take the board outside, lean it against the building, and clap the erasers against that.
Exercise Equipment
For lots of people, cleaning gym equipment is as easy as removing the shirts hanging on the handlebars. But for those who actually use their stationary bikes, treadmills, or weight machines, the goal is to keep the equipment more than clutter free. You want it to remain sanitary and operating smoothly.
Wipe the perspiration off the equipment after you've finished using it, because the salt in your sweat is corrosive. This goes for all machines, especially those with metal parts. Wipe down control panels to keep moisture from seeping into them and ruining the sensitive electronics. To make it easier, keep a roll of paper towels handy in your workout room.
Every once in a while, wipe down the equipment with a sponge or cloth moistened with a bleach solution--1 to 2 ounces of bleach in 1 quart of water. This will kill any lingering germs.
OOPS!
walking on Sunshine >
Boston-based personal trainer Jeff Rutfield, Who recommends treating in your home gym equipment as you would a car by washing and waxing it, knows, someone who took his comparison too far.
"He used rubber and vinyl protectant Armor All on the belt of his treadmill," Rutfield said. It wasn't such a far-fetched thing to do, considering that the belt's rubber is similar to a tire's sidewall. And it worked--the belt was even shinier than when it was new.
However, Rutfield said, "The next time he used his treadmill, he went flying off." Armor All's one major drawback: It's slippery.
To clean a treadmill and keep it running properly, use your vacuum cleaner to clean under the machine every other week. Every three months, vacuum around the motor casing. Most people don't realize it, but dirt is the biggest killer of treadmill motors. Along those lines, here are two tips from a personal trainer:
- First, don't wear the same shoes on your treadmill that you wear outside. Instead, keep a fresh,indoors-only pair for treadmill training.
- second, consider putting your treadmill on a rubber mat instead of directly on the floor or carpet. All that fricton causes a buildup of static electricity, which will attract motor-clogging dust bunnies and carpet lint.
Follow both tips and you'll clean less and have a longer lasting treadmill.
To clean an elliptical machine--the gizmo that combines the exercise of climbing stairs with that of riding a bicycle--wipe it down with a moist rag. To keep an elliptical machine from squeaking and skipping, clean and lubricate the machine's rails and wheels. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations or wipe with a cloth moistened with silicone spray.
To clean a weight machine, treat it like a car. (It probably cost as much.) The painted metal parts are similar to your car's painted metal body. Once a year, use a car cleaner (available at auto supply stores), diluted according to the package directions, to clean the grime off the paint. Rinse with a clean wet towel and dry with a dry towel. Wax the machine with your favorite car wax,
again following the package directions. This prevents scratches, reduces grime build up, and brings out a warm shine.
Periodically, clean and lubricate the weight machine's guide rods to keep the weight stack from sticking. Clean the rods with a dry paper towel. Wipe them with a cloth moistened with a silicone spray. Don't overdo it, however, because too much lubrication can also make them stick together.
To keep up a stationary bike, the most important thing to do is to clean and lubricate the chain every three months or so. Clean the chain by carefully holding a dry rag on it and slowly turning the pedals to run the chain through the rag a few times. Next, lubricate the chain with a Teflon or silicone spray lubricant, available at bicycle stores. To avoid splattering, don't jump on and pedal right away; let the lubricant dry, should take only a few minutes.
Have your equipment professionally serviced every year or so if you use it with any regularity. Ask the people you bought the gear from to recommend a service technician.
To clean an elliptical machine--the gizmo that combines the exercise of climbing stairs with that of riding a bicycle--wipe it down with a moist rag. To keep an elliptical machine from squeaking and skipping, clean and lubricate the machine's rails and wheels. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations or wipe with a cloth moistened with silicone spray.
To clean a weight machine, treat it like a car. (It probably cost as much.) The painted metal parts are similar to your car's painted metal body. Once a year, use a car cleaner (available at auto supply stores), diluted according to the package directions, to clean the grime off the paint. Rinse with a clean wet towel and dry with a dry towel. Wax the machine with your favorite car wax,
again following the package directions. This prevents scratches, reduces grime build up, and brings out a warm shine.
Periodically, clean and lubricate the weight machine's guide rods to keep the weight stack from sticking. Clean the rods with a dry paper towel. Wipe them with a cloth moistened with a silicone spray. Don't overdo it, however, because too much lubrication can also make them stick together.
To keep up a stationary bike, the most important thing to do is to clean and lubricate the chain every three months or so. Clean the chain by carefully holding a dry rag on it and slowly turning the pedals to run the chain through the rag a few times. Next, lubricate the chain with a Teflon or silicone spray lubricant, available at bicycle stores. To avoid splattering, don't jump on and pedal right away; let the lubricant dry, should take only a few minutes.
Have your equipment professionally serviced every year or so if you use it with any regularity. Ask the people you bought the gear from to recommend a service technician.
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