Graffiti
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The trick to removing graffiti is to do it as soon possible. Most graffiti is paint (or a similar coating), which is applied wet and has binders that solidify as the paint solvents evaporate. The solubility of paint, therefore, is reduced the longer it has a chance to harden. If you remove the paint right away, you will have a good chance of succeeding. You will also deny graffiti artist the satisfaction of showing off his or her handiwork--which might deter the defacer from doing it a next time--and you'll reduce the chances that copycats will scrawl more graffiti.
To remove some markings, try a simple solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. If the paint or marker used water soluble and you've caught it early enough this might just work.nylon- or natural-bristled brush. Rinse with the spray nozzle on your garden hose, if possible. The low pressure might lift the stain without damaging the surface it's on.
To remove stubborn graffiti, which won't wash off with water, try a chemical paint remover.
(Keep in mind, however, that if the graffiti is on a painted surface, these paint removers won't discriminate between paints, and you may end up having to repaint your entire wall.) Gets and pastes typically work well because they are easy to apply and don't drip. Avoid aerosol graffiti removers, which can dissolve paint and then run down the wall, staining a previously clean area.
Carefully scrub the graffiti with a
An alkaline paste that contain a caustic, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, works well. These are harsh chemicals, though, and you should follow the manufacturer's safety and use recommendations carefully. With such a paste, you typically wipe it on, let it stand and loosen the paint for a few minutes, and then wipe it off. Then you rinse with water and neutralize with a separate acid-based neutralizing agent (usually made by the same company). The neutralizing agent keeps the caustics from staining stone and other surfaces.
If all else fails, considering blasting the graffiti off. You've got two options--pressure washing or sandblasting. Both can be extremely harmful to wood, old brick, and stone. And all but the finest-grade sandblasters will damage metal. you can rent a pressure washer at an equipment rental store. Follow all safety instructions and use extreme caution, since these machines can be dangerous and harmful to your house. One way to reduce your chances of damaging the surface is to begin with a low water pressure and gradually increase it as necessary. You should probably leave the sandblasting up to the pros. Look in the yellow pages under Sandblasting.
If you can't beat 'em, join 'em, If the surface was painted to begin with, paint over the graffiti with a fresh coat or two of your original wall paint.
To remove graffiti from glass, it's best to use a single-edge razor blade. Put in a flat scraper (available at hardware stores), hold the scraper at a 30-degree angle to the glass, and patiently scrape the paint. Paint strippers aren't as effective on glass, since they tend to smear the paint, making it hard to remove the vestiges. And once you apply the paint stripper, the razor blade is not as effective, because the paint is now thinner.
Granite
The trick to removing graffiti is to do it as soon possible. Most graffiti is paint (or a similar coating), which is applied wet and has binders that solidify as the paint solvents evaporate. The solubility of paint, therefore, is reduced the longer it has a chance to harden. If you remove the paint right away, you will have a good chance of succeeding. You will also deny graffiti artist the satisfaction of showing off his or her handiwork--which might deter the defacer from doing it a next time--and you'll reduce the chances that copycats will scrawl more graffiti.
To remove some markings, try a simple solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. If the paint or marker used water soluble and you've caught it early enough this might just work.nylon- or natural-bristled brush. Rinse with the spray nozzle on your garden hose, if possible. The low pressure might lift the stain without damaging the surface it's on.
To remove stubborn graffiti, which won't wash off with water, try a chemical paint remover.
An alkaline paste that contain a caustic, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, works well. These are harsh chemicals, though, and you should follow the manufacturer's safety and use recommendations carefully. With such a paste, you typically wipe it on, let it stand and loosen the paint for a few minutes, and then wipe it off. Then you rinse with water and neutralize with a separate acid-based neutralizing agent (usually made by the same company). The neutralizing agent keeps the caustics from staining stone and other surfaces.
If all else fails, considering blasting the graffiti off. You've got two options--pressure washing or sandblasting. Both can be extremely harmful to wood, old brick, and stone. And all but the finest-grade sandblasters will damage metal. you can rent a pressure washer at an equipment rental store. Follow all safety instructions and use extreme caution, since these machines can be dangerous and harmful to your house. One way to reduce your chances of damaging the surface is to begin with a low water pressure and gradually increase it as necessary. You should probably leave the sandblasting up to the pros. Look in the yellow pages under Sandblasting.
If you can't beat 'em, join 'em, If the surface was painted to begin with, paint over the graffiti with a fresh coat or two of your original wall paint.
To remove graffiti from glass, it's best to use a single-edge razor blade. Put in a flat scraper (available at hardware stores), hold the scraper at a 30-degree angle to the glass, and patiently scrape the paint. Paint strippers aren't as effective on glass, since they tend to smear the paint, making it hard to remove the vestiges. And once you apply the paint stripper, the razor blade is not as effective, because the paint is now thinner.
Granite
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All granite is not alike. In fact, what you're calling granite may not even as granite. Some of the countertops and other architectural stone sold as granite may have only the appearance of granite. When it comes to cleaning, knowing whether the material is genuine granite is important, because some cleaners that are considered safe for granite may react negatively with your stone. The acid is vinegar, for instance, eats away at calcium, which is not usually present is granite but may be in your stone.
And then there are different types of surface finishes to consider, from raw stone to highly polished stone to chemically sealed stone.
That may sound complicated, but cleaning the stone should not be. The best approach is the simplest.
To care for granite, keep off sand and dirt, especially on flat surfaces, where it can be ground down but shoe soles or boots. The grit can scratch the stone. For walls, floors, and other such surfaces. use either a vacuum cleaner or dry dust mop. For countertops and tables, dust with a clean, dry rag. Wipe up spills immediately to avoid staining.
To clean granite countertops in kitchens and bathrooms, first try using only warm water, wiping with a soft cloth or sponge. Let caked-on food soak a bit before wiping. You should be able to remove spills, crumbs, sauces, and other things this way. If not, then add a little dishwashing liquid to the water. Rinse well with lots of clean water. Too much soap can leave a film or cause streaking, Avoid stronger cleaning products, such as tub and tile cleaners or scouring powders, as these can stain or scratch your stone.
To remove difficult stains, keep it simple and be patient. Most stains are solid residue jammed in between the crystals of the stone after the liquid that carried it has evaporated.The trick is to put the solid back into solution so it can be removed. First, determine whether your stain is water-based (for example, from spilled grape juice) or oil-based (salad dressing).
All granite is not alike. In fact, what you're calling granite may not even as granite. Some of the countertops and other architectural stone sold as granite may have only the appearance of granite. When it comes to cleaning, knowing whether the material is genuine granite is important, because some cleaners that are considered safe for granite may react negatively with your stone. The acid is vinegar, for instance, eats away at calcium, which is not usually present is granite but may be in your stone.
And then there are different types of surface finishes to consider, from raw stone to highly polished stone to chemically sealed stone.
To care for granite, keep off sand and dirt, especially on flat surfaces, where it can be ground down but shoe soles or boots. The grit can scratch the stone. For walls, floors, and other such surfaces. use either a vacuum cleaner or dry dust mop. For countertops and tables, dust with a clean, dry rag. Wipe up spills immediately to avoid staining.
To clean granite countertops in kitchens and bathrooms, first try using only warm water, wiping with a soft cloth or sponge. Let caked-on food soak a bit before wiping. You should be able to remove spills, crumbs, sauces, and other things this way. If not, then add a little dishwashing liquid to the water. Rinse well with lots of clean water. Too much soap can leave a film or cause streaking, Avoid stronger cleaning products, such as tub and tile cleaners or scouring powders, as these can stain or scratch your stone.
To remove difficult stains, keep it simple and be patient. Most stains are solid residue jammed in between the crystals of the stone after the liquid that carried it has evaporated.The trick is to put the solid back into solution so it can be removed. First, determine whether your stain is water-based (for example, from spilled grape juice) or oil-based (salad dressing).
- If the stain is water-based, pour hot water (from the tap, not the teakettle) on the stain and let it stand for a few minutes. Wipe away the excess water. Then stack 1/4 inch of paper towels on the stain and saturate with hot water. Cover with a piece of plastic (plastic wrap or a plastic drop cloth will do) and a flat, heavy weight, such as cast-iron skillet. Let it stand for 10 hours. (Do it overnight, and you won't have to worry about anyone moving it.) Next, throw away the paper towels, and the stain should go with them. Let the spot dry and then observe. If some of the stain is still present, repeat the treatment.
- If the stain is oil-based, follow the same procedure, only instead of water, use acetone (but do not heat). After the 10 hours is up,throw away the paper towels and rinse the spot with clean water. If necessary, repeat. Acetone can be found on the paint thinner shelf in hardware and home stores.
Grease stains
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Grease stains get worse over time, as dust and dirt attach themselves to the sticky surface. The longer you wait to clean a grease stain, the harder it will be to do it property. How you clean depends on what you're cleaning.
To remove grease from fabric, first remove excess grease with a paper towel, a plastic spatulla, or the dull edge of a knife. If possible, have the fabric professionally dry-cleaned. If you can't have it dry-cleaned, follow these steps.
Grease stains get worse over time, as dust and dirt attach themselves to the sticky surface. The longer you wait to clean a grease stain, the harder it will be to do it property. How you clean depends on what you're cleaning.
To remove grease from fabric, first remove excess grease with a paper towel, a plastic spatulla, or the dull edge of a knife. If possible, have the fabric professionally dry-cleaned. If you can't have it dry-cleaned, follow these steps.
- Lay the stain facedown on a soft, white, absorbent cloth.
- Apply a dry-cleaning solvent, such as K2r or Carbona, to another cloth.
- Blot from the inside of the garment, forcing the stain out and into the other cloth as the solvent dissolves it.
To remove grease from carpets, follow the same steps as for stains in fabrics.
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| Dirty Particles |
As a good substitute for a dry-cleaning solvent, use an acetone-based nail polish remover. But do not use it on anything made of acetate, because the acetone will dissolve the fabric. It's always safest to test in an out-of-sight corner of the material first.
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