Mirrors
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A variety of low-cost cleaning methods will produce sparkling mirrors that reflect a streak-free image
To spiff up a mirror with glass cleaner, make sure you spray the glass cleaner on a lint-free cotton cloth or rag rather than directly on the mirror's surface. Not only do use less cleaner, but
you also prevent excess cleaner from running down the mirror's edges, where it can cause the mirror's silver backing to oxidize turn black and brittle, and eventually flake.
Old newspapers do an excellent job of cleaning glass. Wear rubber gloves if you choose this method, to keep the printer's ink off your hands. Begin by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water in a bowl. Crumple the newspaper into a ball, dip it into the mixture, and thoroughly wipe the mirror. Follow by rubbing with a dry newspaper or cotton cloth, to eliminate streaking. For extra shine after the mirror is dry, wipe it with a clean blackboard eraser.
To remove caked-on hair spray wipe it off with a little rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth.
Motorcycles and Motor Scooters
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Motorcycle mania isn't just for Harley-riding bad boys anymore. People who choose to travel on these lithe, lean machines ride a little taller when the bike gleams. So get out the garden hose and get ready to shine.
To keep water out of cables and controls, cover the handlebars with plastic before washing the bike. The plastic sleeves that newspapers are delivered in cover handlebars well. Put a piece of plastic tape over the ignition keyhole, too, to keep water out of the lock.
WATCH OUT
Never clean mirrors using abrasive or acidic cleaners. Mirrors are composed of reflective layers of tin, silver, and copper, backed by a layer of paint. Abrasive cleaners can scratch the glass. Acidic solvents can damage and corrode the reflective layers.
Before washing, spray the bike with a garden hose. If the bike is bably caked with mind and road grease, you'll probably want to use high-pressure water. But take care to let the pressurized water hit the instruments, ignition keyhole, carburetor, or brakes. They could be damaged if water were to get inside.
Motorcycle stores sell a variety of wash sprays that remove oil and road grime, such as $100 cycle care products. Use such a spray on the engine and wheels, wipe with a clean cloth, and immediately rinse.
Next, wash the bike's painted areas. You'll find that car wash solutions work well, and a terry cloth cotton mitt will allow you to get into tight spots without cutting your fingers. Don't use laundry or dishwashing detegents--they're much too harsh and can take off the wax and leave streaks. Rinse the bike well with fresh hose water before any solution-coated areas have time to dry.
Dry the bike to prevent water spots. Cotton towels will work, but a synthetic chamois is best because it sheds less. It's a good idea to ride the bike within an hour of washing it, to get rid of any water drops that have collected in the engine, handlebars, and controls, Taking your bike for a spin also completely dries the brakes, which can be damaged by corrosion.
When your bike's finish starts to look dull, give the painted surfaces a coat of wax, applying it with a dampened sponge. Cleaner waxes and polishes are fine for older bikes. But on newer bikes, use Carnauba Wax, a natural wax that doesn't contain cleaners. Cleaners can literally take off the top layer of paint on a bike that is less than six months old.
WATCH OUT
When washing a motor cycle:
Remove all rings and bracelets that could scratch the bike.
Wait about an hour after riding before cleaning it. Never clean a hot engine, because the exhaust pipes can burn though skin if they haven't had time to cool.
Make sure you that clean the bike on level ground; otherwise the side stand could slip and cause the bike to fall on you.
Musical Instruments
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A clean instrument produces a clearer sound, and periodic cleaning extends an instrument's life. You can cut down on cleanup with a little preventive maintenance: Habits as simple as washing your hands before playing and returning the instrument to its case whenever it's not being used go a long way. Here are notes (ha-ha!) on keeping the most common musical instruments as fit as a fiddle.
Clean a brass instrument regularly after using it. If you don't the sound quality will slide. All that blowing pushes saliva down into the horn's bore, where it reacts with zinc in the metal to produce lime deposits. The gradual buildup of lime will cause the bore of the horn to get smaller and smaller, which in time will after the quality of the sound. After each use, you'll need to perform routine maintenance.
Empty water from the horn. Then open each water key and blow through the instrument. Work the valves at the same time so excess water will be blown out. Wipe the outside with a clean, soft cloth, paying special attention to the area your hands have touched. Use a mouthpiece brush to clean the rim of the mouth-piece. Always store the instrument in its case, but make sure it's completely dry before putting it away.
Clean a brass instrument thoroughly every month or so, depending on how frequently you play. The process takes about an hour. Start by taking the instrument apart. If the valve caps or slides are stuck, don't try to force them. Instead, forget the home cleaning and take the instrument to a repair person. (To find the name of a good repair person, consult your music store or ask an instructor who plays your instrument.)
But if you're able to disassemble the instrument easily, put the valves, caps, and slides aside, keeping the valves in their proper order. (Each valve is numbered, with number 1 corresponding to your index finger.) Fill a sink or bathtub--depending on whether you're cleaning a trumpet or a tuba--with lukewarm water (hot water can damage the finish) mixed with a squirt of dishwashing liquid. Submerge the body of the instrument and the slides and swish the water around. If you have a
cleaning snake, run it through each part. Rinse all the pieces in clean, warm water and dry them with a cotton towel. Place the parts on a clean, dry towel so the insides can dry. Clean the valves and caps by rinsing them with warm water, being careful not to get the felt at the top of each valve wet. Wipe them dry and let them air with the other parts.
When all the parts are dry, lightly lubricate each slide with slide grease and reinsert it. Use valve oil to lubricate the valves and then reinstalll them and the valve caps in their proper order.
expert advice
Of Temperature and Tempo >
Extreme temperature shifts in a short time pose a hazard to drum shells and their finishes, says Los Angels drummer Dan Grody. As humidity and temperature change, the changing moisture content can cause the shells to expand, contract, warp, or even crack. Drums are safest when stored in a temperature climate--the same kind that feels comfortable to you.
To clean your drums, use a soft, damp cloth to snare any dust that has collected. Wipe off the head and outside of the drum.
You"ll need to do a thorough cleaning of your drums once a year. Remove the heads and hardware. Mix 1 teaspoon of mild dishwashing liquid in a couple of cups of water. Dampen a soft cloth in the solution and wipe down the drums, heads, and hardware--taking care to keep the springs from getting wet. The tension rods may need extra attention. If they're black and coated with old grease and grime, give them a quick bath using grease-cutting dishwashing liquid. Use old rags to wash and dry the rods, because the stains left behind on the cloth are tough to remove. Rinse by wipping all parts with a cloth dampened only with water. Then dry each piece individually with a clean cloth.
As for cymbals, it's best to simply dust them with a dry cloth and leave more rigorous cleaning to the pros. Cymbals are usually coated with a lacquer designed to prevent tarnishing. Cleaning solvents can eat through the coating.
Mirrors
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A variety of low-cost cleaning methods will produce sparkling mirrors that reflect a streak-free image
To spiff up a mirror with glass cleaner, make sure you spray the glass cleaner on a lint-free cotton cloth or rag rather than directly on the mirror's surface. Not only do use less cleaner, but
you also prevent excess cleaner from running down the mirror's edges, where it can cause the mirror's silver backing to oxidize turn black and brittle, and eventually flake.
Old newspapers do an excellent job of cleaning glass. Wear rubber gloves if you choose this method, to keep the printer's ink off your hands. Begin by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water in a bowl. Crumple the newspaper into a ball, dip it into the mixture, and thoroughly wipe the mirror. Follow by rubbing with a dry newspaper or cotton cloth, to eliminate streaking. For extra shine after the mirror is dry, wipe it with a clean blackboard eraser.
To remove caked-on hair spray wipe it off with a little rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth.
Motorcycles and Motor Scooters
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Motorcycle mania isn't just for Harley-riding bad boys anymore. People who choose to travel on these lithe, lean machines ride a little taller when the bike gleams. So get out the garden hose and get ready to shine.
To keep water out of cables and controls, cover the handlebars with plastic before washing the bike. The plastic sleeves that newspapers are delivered in cover handlebars well. Put a piece of plastic tape over the ignition keyhole, too, to keep water out of the lock.
WATCH OUT
Never clean mirrors using abrasive or acidic cleaners. Mirrors are composed of reflective layers of tin, silver, and copper, backed by a layer of paint. Abrasive cleaners can scratch the glass. Acidic solvents can damage and corrode the reflective layers.
Before washing, spray the bike with a garden hose. If the bike is bably caked with mind and road grease, you'll probably want to use high-pressure water. But take care to let the pressurized water hit the instruments, ignition keyhole, carburetor, or brakes. They could be damaged if water were to get inside.
Motorcycle stores sell a variety of wash sprays that remove oil and road grime, such as $100 cycle care products. Use such a spray on the engine and wheels, wipe with a clean cloth, and immediately rinse.
Next, wash the bike's painted areas. You'll find that car wash solutions work well, and a terry cloth cotton mitt will allow you to get into tight spots without cutting your fingers. Don't use laundry or dishwashing detegents--they're much too harsh and can take off the wax and leave streaks. Rinse the bike well with fresh hose water before any solution-coated areas have time to dry.
Dry the bike to prevent water spots. Cotton towels will work, but a synthetic chamois is best because it sheds less. It's a good idea to ride the bike within an hour of washing it, to get rid of any water drops that have collected in the engine, handlebars, and controls, Taking your bike for a spin also completely dries the brakes, which can be damaged by corrosion.
When your bike's finish starts to look dull, give the painted surfaces a coat of wax, applying it with a dampened sponge. Cleaner waxes and polishes are fine for older bikes. But on newer bikes, use Carnauba Wax, a natural wax that doesn't contain cleaners. Cleaners can literally take off the top layer of paint on a bike that is less than six months old.
WATCH OUT
When washing a motor cycle:
Musical Instruments
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A variety of low-cost cleaning methods will produce sparkling mirrors that reflect a streak-free image
To spiff up a mirror with glass cleaner, make sure you spray the glass cleaner on a lint-free cotton cloth or rag rather than directly on the mirror's surface. Not only do use less cleaner, but
you also prevent excess cleaner from running down the mirror's edges, where it can cause the mirror's silver backing to oxidize turn black and brittle, and eventually flake.
Old newspapers do an excellent job of cleaning glass. Wear rubber gloves if you choose this method, to keep the printer's ink off your hands. Begin by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water in a bowl. Crumple the newspaper into a ball, dip it into the mixture, and thoroughly wipe the mirror. Follow by rubbing with a dry newspaper or cotton cloth, to eliminate streaking. For extra shine after the mirror is dry, wipe it with a clean blackboard eraser.
To remove caked-on hair spray wipe it off with a little rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth.
Motorcycles and Motor Scooters
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Motorcycle mania isn't just for Harley-riding bad boys anymore. People who choose to travel on these lithe, lean machines ride a little taller when the bike gleams. So get out the garden hose and get ready to shine.
To keep water out of cables and controls, cover the handlebars with plastic before washing the bike. The plastic sleeves that newspapers are delivered in cover handlebars well. Put a piece of plastic tape over the ignition keyhole, too, to keep water out of the lock.
WATCH OUT
Never clean mirrors using abrasive or acidic cleaners. Mirrors are composed of reflective layers of tin, silver, and copper, backed by a layer of paint. Abrasive cleaners can scratch the glass. Acidic solvents can damage and corrode the reflective layers.
Before washing, spray the bike with a garden hose. If the bike is bably caked with mind and road grease, you'll probably want to use high-pressure water. But take care to let the pressurized water hit the instruments, ignition keyhole, carburetor, or brakes. They could be damaged if water were to get inside.
Motorcycle stores sell a variety of wash sprays that remove oil and road grime, such as $100 cycle care products. Use such a spray on the engine and wheels, wipe with a clean cloth, and immediately rinse.
Next, wash the bike's painted areas. You'll find that car wash solutions work well, and a terry cloth cotton mitt will allow you to get into tight spots without cutting your fingers. Don't use laundry or dishwashing detegents--they're much too harsh and can take off the wax and leave streaks. Rinse the bike well with fresh hose water before any solution-coated areas have time to dry.
Dry the bike to prevent water spots. Cotton towels will work, but a synthetic chamois is best because it sheds less. It's a good idea to ride the bike within an hour of washing it, to get rid of any water drops that have collected in the engine, handlebars, and controls, Taking your bike for a spin also completely dries the brakes, which can be damaged by corrosion.
When your bike's finish starts to look dull, give the painted surfaces a coat of wax, applying it with a dampened sponge. Cleaner waxes and polishes are fine for older bikes. But on newer bikes, use Carnauba Wax, a natural wax that doesn't contain cleaners. Cleaners can literally take off the top layer of paint on a bike that is less than six months old.
WATCH OUT
When washing a motor cycle:
- Remove all rings and bracelets that could scratch the bike.
- Wait about an hour after riding before cleaning it. Never clean a hot engine, because the exhaust pipes can burn though skin if they haven't had time to cool.
- Make sure you that clean the bike on level ground; otherwise the side stand could slip and cause the bike to fall on you.
Musical Instruments
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A clean instrument produces a clearer sound, and periodic cleaning extends an instrument's life. You can cut down on cleanup with a little preventive maintenance: Habits as simple as washing your hands before playing and returning the instrument to its case whenever it's not being used go a long way. Here are notes (ha-ha!) on keeping the most common musical instruments as fit as a fiddle.
Clean a brass instrument regularly after using it. If you don't the sound quality will slide. All that blowing pushes saliva down into the horn's bore, where it reacts with zinc in the metal to produce lime deposits. The gradual buildup of lime will cause the bore of the horn to get smaller and smaller, which in time will after the quality of the sound. After each use, you'll need to perform routine maintenance.
Empty water from the horn. Then open each water key and blow through the instrument. Work the valves at the same time so excess water will be blown out. Wipe the outside with a clean, soft cloth, paying special attention to the area your hands have touched. Use a mouthpiece brush to clean the rim of the mouth-piece. Always store the instrument in its case, but make sure it's completely dry before putting it away.
Clean a brass instrument thoroughly every month or so, depending on how frequently you play. The process takes about an hour. Start by taking the instrument apart. If the valve caps or slides are stuck, don't try to force them. Instead, forget the home cleaning and take the instrument to a repair person. (To find the name of a good repair person, consult your music store or ask an instructor who plays your instrument.)
But if you're able to disassemble the instrument easily, put the valves, caps, and slides aside, keeping the valves in their proper order. (Each valve is numbered, with number 1 corresponding to your index finger.) Fill a sink or bathtub--depending on whether you're cleaning a trumpet or a tuba--with lukewarm water (hot water can damage the finish) mixed with a squirt of dishwashing liquid. Submerge the body of the instrument and the slides and swish the water around. If you have a
cleaning snake, run it through each part. Rinse all the pieces in clean, warm water and dry them with a cotton towel. Place the parts on a clean, dry towel so the insides can dry. Clean the valves and caps by rinsing them with warm water, being careful not to get the felt at the top of each valve wet. Wipe them dry and let them air with the other parts.
When all the parts are dry, lightly lubricate each slide with slide grease and reinsert it. Use valve oil to lubricate the valves and then reinstalll them and the valve caps in their proper order.
expert advice
Of Temperature and Tempo >
Extreme temperature shifts in a short time pose a hazard to drum shells and their finishes, says Los Angels drummer Dan Grody. As humidity and temperature change, the changing moisture content can cause the shells to expand, contract, warp, or even crack. Drums are safest when stored in a temperature climate--the same kind that feels comfortable to you.
To clean your drums, use a soft, damp cloth to snare any dust that has collected. Wipe off the head and outside of the drum.
You"ll need to do a thorough cleaning of your drums once a year. Remove the heads and hardware. Mix 1 teaspoon of mild dishwashing liquid in a couple of cups of water. Dampen a soft cloth in the solution and wipe down the drums, heads, and hardware--taking care to keep the springs from getting wet. The tension rods may need extra attention. If they're black and coated with old grease and grime, give them a quick bath using grease-cutting dishwashing liquid. Use old rags to wash and dry the rods, because the stains left behind on the cloth are tough to remove. Rinse by wipping all parts with a cloth dampened only with water. Then dry each piece individually with a clean cloth.
As for cymbals, it's best to simply dust them with a dry cloth and leave more rigorous cleaning to the pros. Cymbals are usually coated with a lacquer designed to prevent tarnishing. Cleaning solvents can eat through the coating.
A clean instrument produces a clearer sound, and periodic cleaning extends an instrument's life. You can cut down on cleanup with a little preventive maintenance: Habits as simple as washing your hands before playing and returning the instrument to its case whenever it's not being used go a long way. Here are notes (ha-ha!) on keeping the most common musical instruments as fit as a fiddle.
Clean a brass instrument regularly after using it. If you don't the sound quality will slide. All that blowing pushes saliva down into the horn's bore, where it reacts with zinc in the metal to produce lime deposits. The gradual buildup of lime will cause the bore of the horn to get smaller and smaller, which in time will after the quality of the sound. After each use, you'll need to perform routine maintenance.
Empty water from the horn. Then open each water key and blow through the instrument. Work the valves at the same time so excess water will be blown out. Wipe the outside with a clean, soft cloth, paying special attention to the area your hands have touched. Use a mouthpiece brush to clean the rim of the mouth-piece. Always store the instrument in its case, but make sure it's completely dry before putting it away.
Clean a brass instrument thoroughly every month or so, depending on how frequently you play. The process takes about an hour. Start by taking the instrument apart. If the valve caps or slides are stuck, don't try to force them. Instead, forget the home cleaning and take the instrument to a repair person. (To find the name of a good repair person, consult your music store or ask an instructor who plays your instrument.)
But if you're able to disassemble the instrument easily, put the valves, caps, and slides aside, keeping the valves in their proper order. (Each valve is numbered, with number 1 corresponding to your index finger.) Fill a sink or bathtub--depending on whether you're cleaning a trumpet or a tuba--with lukewarm water (hot water can damage the finish) mixed with a squirt of dishwashing liquid. Submerge the body of the instrument and the slides and swish the water around. If you have a
cleaning snake, run it through each part. Rinse all the pieces in clean, warm water and dry them with a cotton towel. Place the parts on a clean, dry towel so the insides can dry. Clean the valves and caps by rinsing them with warm water, being careful not to get the felt at the top of each valve wet. Wipe them dry and let them air with the other parts.
When all the parts are dry, lightly lubricate each slide with slide grease and reinsert it. Use valve oil to lubricate the valves and then reinstalll them and the valve caps in their proper order.
expert advice
Of Temperature and Tempo >
Extreme temperature shifts in a short time pose a hazard to drum shells and their finishes, says Los Angels drummer Dan Grody. As humidity and temperature change, the changing moisture content can cause the shells to expand, contract, warp, or even crack. Drums are safest when stored in a temperature climate--the same kind that feels comfortable to you.
To clean your drums, use a soft, damp cloth to snare any dust that has collected. Wipe off the head and outside of the drum.
You"ll need to do a thorough cleaning of your drums once a year. Remove the heads and hardware. Mix 1 teaspoon of mild dishwashing liquid in a couple of cups of water. Dampen a soft cloth in the solution and wipe down the drums, heads, and hardware--taking care to keep the springs from getting wet. The tension rods may need extra attention. If they're black and coated with old grease and grime, give them a quick bath using grease-cutting dishwashing liquid. Use old rags to wash and dry the rods, because the stains left behind on the cloth are tough to remove. Rinse by wipping all parts with a cloth dampened only with water. Then dry each piece individually with a clean cloth.
As for cymbals, it's best to simply dust them with a dry cloth and leave more rigorous cleaning to the pros. Cymbals are usually coated with a lacquer designed to prevent tarnishing. Cleaning solvents can eat through the coating.
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