Ink stains
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If the sight of ink on your carpeting or clothing throws you into a panic stop, take a deep breath, and reach for the alcohol--rub-bring alcohol, that is. It's the best remedy for removing any kind of ink from leather, carpeting, upholstery, an clothing (as long as the isn't permanent ink, made by felt-tip pens, such as Magic Marker; India ink; or paining ink, for instance). Always clean an ink stain immediately, and always use cool water when you do it. (Heat will set the stain.)
Before using a cleaner on any fabric or surface, test an inconspicuous spot for colorfastness. Various fabrics and surfaces react differently to ink stains, but the following are good general guidelines.
To remove ink from leather, vinyl, and most fabrics, moisten a section of the clean white terry cloth towel with rubbing alcohol and dab the alcohol on the ink stain.fresh white cloth to blot up the stain. Move to a new spot on the cleaning cloth each time you blot, to avoid spreading the stain. Reapply the alcohol if necessary. Finally, rinse with a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar per 1 quart water and then rinse again with plain water. (Yes, alcohol usually evaporates, but the rinsing ensure that the material won't be damaged by any lingering traces.)
Let the alcohol sit for 30 minutes to give it time to dissolve the ink. Then use a
If the ink resists removal with rubbing alcohol, ask your pharmacist for denatured alcohol or use foam shaving cream, (Gel shaving cream does not work.) Shaving cream contains two or three kinds of alcohol that can remove ink and many stubborn food stains. Apply the denatured alcohol or foam, wait 10 to 15 minutes, and then rinse as above.
When removing ink from fabrics, here are some other tips to keep in mind:
To remove ink from carpeting, moisten a section of a clean white terry cloth towel with rubbing alcohol and gently blot the spot. Wait 30 minutes for the alcohol to dissolve the ink, then press the knuckle of your index finger into the barely damp rag. Work your knuckle forward and backward over the stain. Change to a clean spot on the towel and repeat, this time working your knuckle left to right. Replenish alcohol if needed. To finish removing the stain, again press your knuckle into the damp towel, but this time twist your wrist in a clockwise directions. Carpet fibers are twisted clockwise. This motion will help remove stains from between the fibers without causing the carpet to fuzz. Rinse with a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar per 1 quart water and then rinse again with plain water, applied using a fresh towel and the same knuckle technique.
To remove a surface ink mark on wood, apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol to the mark with a cotton swab and wait five minutes. Then blot the stain with a clean white towel. If ink remains, apply alcohol again. Wait 24 hours for the wood to completely dry and then polish it.If ink remains after two alcohol applications, use an orange-based cleaner to remove to mark.
RULES OF THE GAME
Out, Damned Spot >
Iron
To clean cast iron, the stuff poured into a mold at a foundry, use the same cleaning methods used on wrought iron. Cast-iron items typically includes doorknobs, mailboxes, railings, and fences. Hose down such an item and then inspect it for use rust. If you find rust, clean it with a wire brush. Then wipe away any dust your cleaning produced. A rust-preventive paint, such as Rust-Oleum, comes in many colors and is great for small touch-ups--indoors and outdoors--to protect the object from further rusitng. Spray and paint-on versions are available.
Cleaning well-seasoned Iron cookware requires very little effort. Generally, all that's required is a little boiling water, light scraping with a wooden spoon, and a quick wipe with a clean cloth. Dry thoroughly and lightly oil again. For badly burned-on food, use a copper wool scouring pad. For extreme cases of burned-on food and grease, use any common oven cleaner according to the package directions. Rinse well. Then, unfortunately, you'll have to season the item as if it were a new piece. (See box previous)
Store pots with the lids off to prevent condensation. Keep your cookware clean, dry, and oiled. Soak badly rusted pots overnight in kerosene, then scour. A wire brush is the best tool for removing rust. Really bad cases of rust may require sandpaper or commercial rust removers.
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If the sight of ink on your carpeting or clothing throws you into a panic stop, take a deep breath, and reach for the alcohol--rub-bring alcohol, that is. It's the best remedy for removing any kind of ink from leather, carpeting, upholstery, an clothing (as long as the isn't permanent ink, made by felt-tip pens, such as Magic Marker; India ink; or paining ink, for instance). Always clean an ink stain immediately, and always use cool water when you do it. (Heat will set the stain.)
To remove ink from leather, vinyl, and most fabrics, moisten a section of the clean white terry cloth towel with rubbing alcohol and dab the alcohol on the ink stain.fresh white cloth to blot up the stain. Move to a new spot on the cleaning cloth each time you blot, to avoid spreading the stain. Reapply the alcohol if necessary. Finally, rinse with a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar per 1 quart water and then rinse again with plain water. (Yes, alcohol usually evaporates, but the rinsing ensure that the material won't be damaged by any lingering traces.)
If the ink resists removal with rubbing alcohol, ask your pharmacist for denatured alcohol or use foam shaving cream, (Gel shaving cream does not work.) Shaving cream contains two or three kinds of alcohol that can remove ink and many stubborn food stains. Apply the denatured alcohol or foam, wait 10 to 15 minutes, and then rinse as above.
When removing ink from fabrics, here are some other tips to keep in mind:
- Blot--never rub-the alcohol on Rubbing the fabric will break down the fibers and weaken the material.
- To prevent large stains from spreading, work from the outside of the stain toward the center.
- Remember to protect your working surface when removing a stain from clothing. Place a piece of plastic on the work surface with a clean white terry towel on top of that. Do the same between layers of clothing.
- Launder clothing of available fabric after removing the stain and air-dry. Professionally dry-clean silk, wool, and linen that specifies dry cleaning. If the garment is hand washable, allow the alcohol to set only five minutes and rinse with cool water. Reapply if needed.
- Polyester reacts differently to ink stains than cotton and other fabrics do. If alcohol and denatured alcohol don't completely remove the ink, rinse the fabric with cool water, apply 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, then rinse again. The hydrogen peroxide will bleach what is left of the ink so that it won't be noticeable. Peroxide is safe for colored clothing, but test an inconspicuous area first. Don't use peroxide on a wool, silk, or persian carpet.
To treat ink stains with hydrogen peroxide instead of alcohol, mix equal parts 20 percent hydrogen peroxide and water and proceed as above.
To remove ink from carpeting, moisten a section of a clean white terry cloth towel with rubbing alcohol and gently blot the spot. Wait 30 minutes for the alcohol to dissolve the ink, then press the knuckle of your index finger into the barely damp rag. Work your knuckle forward and backward over the stain. Change to a clean spot on the towel and repeat, this time working your knuckle left to right. Replenish alcohol if needed. To finish removing the stain, again press your knuckle into the damp towel, but this time twist your wrist in a clockwise directions. Carpet fibers are twisted clockwise. This motion will help remove stains from between the fibers without causing the carpet to fuzz. Rinse with a solution of 1/4 cup white vinegar per 1 quart water and then rinse again with plain water, applied using a fresh towel and the same knuckle technique.
To remove a surface ink mark on wood, apply a small amount of rubbing alcohol to the mark with a cotton swab and wait five minutes. Then blot the stain with a clean white towel. If ink remains, apply alcohol again. Wait 24 hours for the wood to completely dry and then polish it.If ink remains after two alcohol applications, use an orange-based cleaner to remove to mark.
RULES OF THE GAME
Out, Damned Spot >
- Always treat an ink stain immediately.When water is called for in the cleaning process, make sure it's cool.
- Alcohol is the most effective ink remover, but give it time to work-generally 30 minutes.
- Apply alcohol to the stain with a clean white terry towel. Later blot the stain.
Iron
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Wrought iron, as defined metallurgically and by the proceed used in working the metal, is not produced anymore except for restorations. (Real wrought iron is worked white hot, hammered and twisted into shape.)
Today the term is often used, incorrectly to include decorative iron, "mild steel," or cast iron.
Indoor iron pieces--such as bed frames, lamps, and chandeliers--are dust magnets. If your piece has a black-satin finish, you might as well be shining a spotlight on the dust--everyone will see it. The easiest and quickest way to clean indoor pieces is with compressed air. It just blows the dust away and is especially good for all edges, corners, and crevices of detailed iron, which defy the reach of a conventional cleaning rag. An alternative: Dust that intricate ornamentation with an unused, soft-bristled paintbrush.
To clean a smooth piece of wrought iron, wipe first with a soft cotton rag, to remove dust, and then wipe with any furniture polish sprayed onto a clean section of the rag. If there's diet stuck to the wrought iron, the furniture polish may help lubricate and remove it. Water isn't recommended. It will collect in areas that can't be reached by a drying cloth, leading to rust. Furniture polish, on the other hand, provides a protective coating that repels water and resists dust.
To clean outdoor furniture that has a rust look or patina, let your item reach the desired rusty brown before you clean. Wipe off loose rust, dust, or dirt with a rag. Then coat the piece with a clear lacquer paint (available at hardware stores) to protect it from the elements and to prevent further rusting.
Seasoning: Old-timey 'Teflon'
Wrought iron, as defined metallurgically and by the proceed used in working the metal, is not produced anymore except for restorations. (Real wrought iron is worked white hot, hammered and twisted into shape.)
Today the term is often used, incorrectly to include decorative iron, "mild steel," or cast iron.
Indoor iron pieces--such as bed frames, lamps, and chandeliers--are dust magnets. If your piece has a black-satin finish, you might as well be shining a spotlight on the dust--everyone will see it. The easiest and quickest way to clean indoor pieces is with compressed air. It just blows the dust away and is especially good for all edges, corners, and crevices of detailed iron, which defy the reach of a conventional cleaning rag. An alternative: Dust that intricate ornamentation with an unused, soft-bristled paintbrush.
To clean a smooth piece of wrought iron, wipe first with a soft cotton rag, to remove dust, and then wipe with any furniture polish sprayed onto a clean section of the rag. If there's diet stuck to the wrought iron, the furniture polish may help lubricate and remove it. Water isn't recommended. It will collect in areas that can't be reached by a drying cloth, leading to rust. Furniture polish, on the other hand, provides a protective coating that repels water and resists dust.
To clean outdoor furniture that has a rust look or patina, let your item reach the desired rusty brown before you clean. Wipe off loose rust, dust, or dirt with a rag. Then coat the piece with a clear lacquer paint (available at hardware stores) to protect it from the elements and to prevent further rusting.
Seasoning: Old-timey 'Teflon'
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When you buy a new piece of cast-iron cookware, you need to season it. We're not talking about paprika here. Seasoning is a process that will protect your new pot from rust and give it a natural nonstick surface.
There are a number of methods for seasoning a new iron pot, but when Ronald V. O'kelly tells you how, you know it's tried-and-true. After all, he's owner of Frontier America Trading in Seattle, a merchandiser devoted to the kind of equipment Americans used in the 18th and 19th centuries. Here's his technique:
First, clean the new pot with dishwashing detergent and warm water to remove oils and debris from the manufacturing process. Fill the pot about two-thirds full with water. Add 1/3 cup white vinegar per 1 gallon of water and boil the mixture for one hour.
Let it cool and then dump the vinegar water. If the pot is rough, scour the inside with fine-grit wet/dry sandpaper or steel wool.
Wash the pot inside and out with plain water. Apply a light coating of vegetable oil or lard on the inside and outside surfaces. (using a spray cooking oil is fine.) Heat the pot in a 250 degrees to 350 degrees F oven for an hour and then turn off the oven and let the cookware cool with the oven door closed. When the item has cooled, wipe off any excess oil. The seasoning is complete. Now raise your right hand and take this oath: "From now on, no soap will touch the inside off this cast-rion pot." If you fail in this, you'll have to re-season it. Store it dry, with a very light coating of oil. Too much oil will leave a sticky mess.
The more you cook, the better the seasoning gets. With proper case, your pot should not rust. But if it does, repeat the seasoning process.
Outdoor furniture that isn't supposed to rust needs to be cleaned only when it looks dirty or has mud or grime caked on it. Remove dirt by spraying with a garden hose. Periodically check the piece for rust, which may start around areas such as bolts. If you see minor oxidation, gently apply a dry wire brush to remove the rust. Wipe off any dust particles you create. Before applying touch-up paint to the surface, wipe the area clean with acetone or paint thinner on a cotton cloth. This will make the paint adhere better by removing oils that got on the iron from your hands. It also will dissolve any remaining paint in the rusty area. Let the paint thinner dry before painting. Wear gloves and goggles, as acetone and paint thinner can be quite harsh to the skin and eyes.
Note: If your wrought iron has a lot of rust on it, you may have to take it to a professional for sandblasting.
WATCH OUT
There are some things cast-iron cookware doesn't like--including soap, detergent, and the dishwasher. And never pour cold water into hot cast iron--that could break it. Extensive cleaning with soaps or detergents will remove the seasoning and you'll have to repeat the seasoning process.
When you buy a new piece of cast-iron cookware, you need to season it. We're not talking about paprika here. Seasoning is a process that will protect your new pot from rust and give it a natural nonstick surface.
There are a number of methods for seasoning a new iron pot, but when Ronald V. O'kelly tells you how, you know it's tried-and-true. After all, he's owner of Frontier America Trading in Seattle, a merchandiser devoted to the kind of equipment Americans used in the 18th and 19th centuries. Here's his technique:
First, clean the new pot with dishwashing detergent and warm water to remove oils and debris from the manufacturing process. Fill the pot about two-thirds full with water. Add 1/3 cup white vinegar per 1 gallon of water and boil the mixture for one hour.
Wash the pot inside and out with plain water. Apply a light coating of vegetable oil or lard on the inside and outside surfaces. (using a spray cooking oil is fine.) Heat the pot in a 250 degrees to 350 degrees F oven for an hour and then turn off the oven and let the cookware cool with the oven door closed. When the item has cooled, wipe off any excess oil. The seasoning is complete. Now raise your right hand and take this oath: "From now on, no soap will touch the inside off this cast-rion pot." If you fail in this, you'll have to re-season it. Store it dry, with a very light coating of oil. Too much oil will leave a sticky mess.
The more you cook, the better the seasoning gets. With proper case, your pot should not rust. But if it does, repeat the seasoning process.
Outdoor furniture that isn't supposed to rust needs to be cleaned only when it looks dirty or has mud or grime caked on it. Remove dirt by spraying with a garden hose. Periodically check the piece for rust, which may start around areas such as bolts. If you see minor oxidation, gently apply a dry wire brush to remove the rust. Wipe off any dust particles you create. Before applying touch-up paint to the surface, wipe the area clean with acetone or paint thinner on a cotton cloth. This will make the paint adhere better by removing oils that got on the iron from your hands. It also will dissolve any remaining paint in the rusty area. Let the paint thinner dry before painting. Wear gloves and goggles, as acetone and paint thinner can be quite harsh to the skin and eyes.
Note: If your wrought iron has a lot of rust on it, you may have to take it to a professional for sandblasting.
WATCH OUT
There are some things cast-iron cookware doesn't like--including soap, detergent, and the dishwasher. And never pour cold water into hot cast iron--that could break it. Extensive cleaning with soaps or detergents will remove the seasoning and you'll have to repeat the seasoning process.
To clean cast iron, the stuff poured into a mold at a foundry, use the same cleaning methods used on wrought iron. Cast-iron items typically includes doorknobs, mailboxes, railings, and fences. Hose down such an item and then inspect it for use rust. If you find rust, clean it with a wire brush. Then wipe away any dust your cleaning produced. A rust-preventive paint, such as Rust-Oleum, comes in many colors and is great for small touch-ups--indoors and outdoors--to protect the object from further rusitng. Spray and paint-on versions are available.
Cleaning well-seasoned Iron cookware requires very little effort. Generally, all that's required is a little boiling water, light scraping with a wooden spoon, and a quick wipe with a clean cloth. Dry thoroughly and lightly oil again. For badly burned-on food, use a copper wool scouring pad. For extreme cases of burned-on food and grease, use any common oven cleaner according to the package directions. Rinse well. Then, unfortunately, you'll have to season the item as if it were a new piece. (See box previous)
Store pots with the lids off to prevent condensation. Keep your cookware clean, dry, and oiled. Soak badly rusted pots overnight in kerosene, then scour. A wire brush is the best tool for removing rust. Really bad cases of rust may require sandpaper or commercial rust removers.
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