Musical Instruments:
Clean a stringed instrument regularly, and you'll never have to fret. Each time after you play the instrument, wipe the finger-board and strings with a clean, dry cloth or chamois.
Every month or so, clean the instrument's body, which will increase the life span of the finish. Use a soft cloth dampened lightly with a suitable cleaner--which will vary depending on whether you're cleaning a guitar, violin, or cello--and apply evenly, following the grain of the wood. It's very important not to flood the instrument or allow cleaner to soak into seams or peg holes. After a good rubdown, go over it again with a dry cloth.
When you replace strings, that's a great time to clean the fret board. Usually, the built-up gunk--perspiration from fingers or rosin from a bow--can be removed with a soft cloth. But if necessary, give it a very light brushing of steel wool (000 or 0000).
The metal tuning mechanisms will corrode over time and should be polished when they start looking dirty. Consult a music shop with a repair department for product recommendations. As a preventive measure, you can occasionally lubricate the gears on the tuning keys with a little penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
Older valuable instruments should be professionally cleaned once a year, since the varnishes are tricky and can be ruined by inexperienced hands.
SIMPLE SOLUTIONS
Face the Music >
Guitar strings are easy to clean with Stridex Facewipes, says rock musician Tommy Conwell, formerly with the Young Rumblers and now performing with the Little kings in the philadelphia area. The pads contain alcohol, which helps with the cleaning, and they're just the right size to wrap around the string and slide up and down.
Maintaining a woodwind instrument is important, although a through cleaning should be left to a professional--an amateur would just blow it. Serious players should have their instrument cleaned professionally every year. Every other year will suffice for casual players.
For regular maintenance, take these steps every time you play:
Clean a stringed instrument regularly, and you'll never have to fret. Each time after you play the instrument, wipe the finger-board and strings with a clean, dry cloth or chamois.
Every month or so, clean the instrument's body, which will increase the life span of the finish. Use a soft cloth dampened lightly with a suitable cleaner--which will vary depending on whether you're cleaning a guitar, violin, or cello--and apply evenly, following the grain of the wood. It's very important not to flood the instrument or allow cleaner to soak into seams or peg holes. After a good rubdown, go over it again with a dry cloth.
When you replace strings, that's a great time to clean the fret board. Usually, the built-up gunk--perspiration from fingers or rosin from a bow--can be removed with a soft cloth. But if necessary, give it a very light brushing of steel wool (000 or 0000).
The metal tuning mechanisms will corrode over time and should be polished when they start looking dirty. Consult a music shop with a repair department for product recommendations. As a preventive measure, you can occasionally lubricate the gears on the tuning keys with a little penetrating lubricant such as WD-40.
Older valuable instruments should be professionally cleaned once a year, since the varnishes are tricky and can be ruined by inexperienced hands.
SIMPLE SOLUTIONS
Face the Music >
Guitar strings are easy to clean with Stridex Facewipes, says rock musician Tommy Conwell, formerly with the Young Rumblers and now performing with the Little kings in the philadelphia area. The pads contain alcohol, which helps with the cleaning, and they're just the right size to wrap around the string and slide up and down.
Maintaining a woodwind instrument is important, although a through cleaning should be left to a professional--an amateur would just blow it. Serious players should have their instrument cleaned professionally every year. Every other year will suffice for casual players.
For regular maintenance, take these steps every time you play:
- Remove the reed (unless you have a flute or piccolo, of course), which will warp it left on the instrument. Dry it with a soft cloth and return it to its reed case.
- swab inside each section of the instrument with a cotton handkerchief after each use. For flutes, you'll need to buy a cleaning rod, which is available at music stores (or you may will have the one that came with the instrument when it was new).
- To use a cleaning rod, thread a corner of a cotton cloth through the eye of the rod, wrap the cloth around the rod, and insert it in the flute body, rotating it to soak up moisture. Then withdraw the rod.
- Take special care with the pads that cover the tone holes on a flute and other woodwind instruments. They're usually made of a felt covered with a very thin, treated animal skin. when wet, they're easily torn. You can maintain the life of the pads by drying them after each use. Fold a clean, absorbent paper towel, place it between the keys and the body, close the keys, and let the paper absorb the moisture. Don't pull the paper towel out while the key is closed, which can tear the skin. Instead, open the key and remove the paper.
- Wipe the body of the instrument with a soft, clean cloth to remove all fingerprints.
- Clean the mouthpiece weekly,either with a mouthpiece brush or, on larger instruments, by pulling a handkerchief through the mouthpiece.
Every mouth or so, take an artist's sable brush and brush out any dirt that's built up in the ribs (the body of the instrument where the keys are attached). You want to prevent dirt and grease from getting into the pads and mechanisms. Stay away from polishes, which can remove the top layer of metal on an instrument.
Make sure the instrument is completely dry before putting it back in its case.
see also Pianos.
Needlework
Make sure the instrument is completely dry before putting it back in its case.
see also Pianos.
Needlework
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cleaning needlework isn't as simple as it may sound. Techniques will vary according to the age of the piece and the fabric on which it's embroidered. If you are unsure of a piece's age or fabric, consult a pro with proven needle wisdom, particularly if the item is a family heirloom with sentimental value.
To clean needlework less than 15 years old that's embroidered on cotton or wool, follow these steps:
Use care in taking the item apart, whether it's cross-stitch in a frame or needlepoint on a pillow. If the piece has cut edges that might unravel, zigzag the edges on a sewing machine before cleaning. Measure the piece so you'll be able to return it to its original size.
Fill a clean sink with slightly warm water and a squirt of gentle dishwashing liquid that doesn't have a grease-cutting formula. (If you're unsure whether the threads are colorfast, use cold water. Red threads in particular are notorious for bleeding when warm water is used.)
Gently work the soapy water through the fabric, squeezing and agitating the piece. For stains, use a spot remover made for cotton or wool, or pre-soak the piece for at least 30 minutes in the dishwashing liquid--water solution.
Rinse the item several times in clear, cold water, making sure you get all the detergent out so that it doesn't turn the whites yellow.
After you've thoroughly rinsed the piece, place it on a cotton towel, roll up the towel to remove excess water, and unroll.
Using a blocking board, pin the piece facedown at its original measurements so that it will return to square as it dries. (Check your work with a T-square.) Blocking boards are scarce, but you can make one by using a cork board or the kind of foam core board used for matting artwork. Cover it with muslin, and secure the muslin with staples.
WATCH OUT
Dry cleaning isn't the best choice for cleaning needlework, because dry-cleaning fluids contain chemicals that could damage the piece. This is especially true if you're unsure of the type of fabric you're cleaning. In addition, the steam machines used by dry cleaners will take the sizing out of the piece. Making it extremely difficult to block again.
When in doubt, turn to the pros, who are usually listed in the yellow Pages under Needlework.
cleaning needlework isn't as simple as it may sound. Techniques will vary according to the age of the piece and the fabric on which it's embroidered. If you are unsure of a piece's age or fabric, consult a pro with proven needle wisdom, particularly if the item is a family heirloom with sentimental value.
To clean needlework less than 15 years old that's embroidered on cotton or wool, follow these steps:
Use care in taking the item apart, whether it's cross-stitch in a frame or needlepoint on a pillow. If the piece has cut edges that might unravel, zigzag the edges on a sewing machine before cleaning. Measure the piece so you'll be able to return it to its original size.
Fill a clean sink with slightly warm water and a squirt of gentle dishwashing liquid that doesn't have a grease-cutting formula. (If you're unsure whether the threads are colorfast, use cold water. Red threads in particular are notorious for bleeding when warm water is used.)
Gently work the soapy water through the fabric, squeezing and agitating the piece. For stains, use a spot remover made for cotton or wool, or pre-soak the piece for at least 30 minutes in the dishwashing liquid--water solution.
Rinse the item several times in clear, cold water, making sure you get all the detergent out so that it doesn't turn the whites yellow.
After you've thoroughly rinsed the piece, place it on a cotton towel, roll up the towel to remove excess water, and unroll.
Using a blocking board, pin the piece facedown at its original measurements so that it will return to square as it dries. (Check your work with a T-square.) Blocking boards are scarce, but you can make one by using a cork board or the kind of foam core board used for matting artwork. Cover it with muslin, and secure the muslin with staples.
WATCH OUT
Dry cleaning isn't the best choice for cleaning needlework, because dry-cleaning fluids contain chemicals that could damage the piece. This is especially true if you're unsure of the type of fabric you're cleaning. In addition, the steam machines used by dry cleaners will take the sizing out of the piece. Making it extremely difficult to block again.
When in doubt, turn to the pros, who are usually listed in the yellow Pages under Needlework.
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