Pottery:
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There's pottery, such as pithcers, plates, flower vases, and garden containers. And then there's pottery that belongs in an art gallery or museum. Once is utilitarian; the other is precious and requires a light touch--possibly a professional's care.
In the former category, there are two types of pottery: glazed and unglazed. Rule of thumb: The thicker the glaze, the easier to clean. You can get tougher on glazed pottery.
To clean glazed pottery---such household items as plates, mugs, serving trays and flower vases--proceed much as you would with your dishes. This stuff has been fired at 2,000 degrees F, meaning it can stand up to any heat your dishwasher can dish out. Hand-wash fragile or expensive pieces in the sink with warm water and dish washing liquid, so they won't run the risk of getting chipped in the dishwasher. A scrubber sponge will do nicely for most hand-washing, but the glaze will even stand up to the abrasion of a steel wool pad such as Brillo.
To remove heavy dirt and grease, first dampen a cloth in rubbing alcohol, wipe it over the gazed pottery, and then wash as usual in the dishwasher on sink.
To clean unglazed pottery--such as terra cotta flowerpots--just wash them in the sink with warm water and dishwashing liquid. Unglazed pottery is porous, meaning it will soak up water. It may take a day or two for the pot to dry out, but the water won't hurt it.
Fine antique or museum-quality pottery should be cleaned delicately if at all. If nothing is flaking loose on the surface, you can dust with a soft brush. If more cleaning is required, wipe gently with a damp cloth or a damp cloth with a little dishwashing liquid added. Inspect the piece first, however: If the pottery has been required in the past, such cleaning could damage the repair job. For more extensive cleaning, a professional conservator.
WATCH OUT
Some pottery is painted with acrylic, followed by a spray-on glaze that is not kiln-fired. This kind of glaze will not stand up to washing in water. To clean it, wipe with a damp cloth.
Power Tools
If you don't clean your power tools periodically, they'll get you back-by going into permanent retirement. Dust, sawdust, and rust can seep into the motor and accumulate, eventually bringing the tool to a standstill.
How frequently you clean your power tools depends on how often you use them and how carefully you store them. In general, give them a good cleaning any time you notice a buildup of residue such as saw dust, oil or grease. To keep everything running smoothly, don't store your tools where weather can affect them. And remember, If you don't clean them often enough, simple dust clogs can render built-in safety features useless.
To clean your power tools, first disconnect the juice. Unplug them or,if they run on batteries, remove the batteries and wipe out the battery compartment with a soft, dry cloth.
Do not, under any circumstances, spray anything liquid into the motor of any tool you're cleaning. Instead, get out the professional gadgeteer's favorite cleaner--a can of compressed air. Make sure you hold the can level before you point the extension straw and hit the spray button. If you don't hold the can perfectly level, you might wind up spraying liquid into the motor, and that would be disastrous. Spray a blast of air into the air vents. If you see a cloud of dust puff out of the motor, you know you've waited too long to clean your tools.
If you're picky about your tool's apperance, don't use abrasive cleaners. Simply squirt some glass cleaner onto a paper towel and wipe away the ugly stuff.
expert advice
For Sticky Situations >
Glue this here, drill that there... and before you know it, your power tools are smeared with adhesive. No problem, says Glen Kaszubski, technical director for Liquid Nails brand construction adhesives. Just apply a dab of petroleum jelly and rub the glue with a dry cloth until the goo is gone.
Pressure Cookers
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Pressure cookers are tricky. Food particles can get trapped in the pressure gauge (that thing that rattles when the cooker is doing its job), and so the gauge should be cleaned after every use to keep food particles from turning into bacterial debris.
For cleaning out the pressure gauge, the best tool is a large safety pin. (Even though a toothpick would do quite nicely, it could break off in the little hole and, oops, no more pressure cooking.) Go at the little hole from bothsides. You'll be amazed at the gunk that you can force out.
Also give regular attention to the gasket, that rubber ring that seals the deal between the cooker and the lid. If you don't keep it clean, food buildup can result in bacterial buildup, and that's not part of any recipe. Remove the gasket, pour a little dishwashing detergent into your hands, hold them under the tap until you have suds, and then message the gasket unitl you're confident you've removed anything that might breed bacteria. Be careful not to stretch the gasket unncecessarily.
With repeated washing, the gasket can stretch and lose its shape. And a gasket that doesn't fit properly is as good as no gasket at all. It can also get crunchy with wear, so after you wash and dry it, rub the gasket with some oil--olive, canola, or vegetable--anything but corn oil, which can get sticky and actually attract debris.
It's good idea to keep an extra gasket on hand. (If you have trouble finding one for your cooker, order one from the store where you bought it or call the manufacturer for a list of places that sell the kind that fits you model.)
To clean the inside of the pot, nothing works better than good ol' garden variety dishwashing detergent, hot water, a plastic scrubbing sponge, and a little muscle power.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Cleaning for Canning >
If you use your pressure cooker for canning, be sure to add 1/4 teaspoon of cream of tartar or 1/4 cup white vinegar to the water before heating. This will prevent a ring from forming at the water level, and cleanup will be a breeze.
Printers
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First, remove any paper from the paper tray and, if the tray comes off, remove it. Using a dry cloth, wipe off the tray. You don't want water anywhere near the printer innards.
Clean the paper rollers to prevent paper from sticking to them. Clean plastic rollers with cotton swabs dipped in denatured alcohol. For rubber rollers, use latex paint remover--notably, the Goo Off brand, available at hardware stores. It smells yucky, but it will do wonders to revive rubber rollers. Avoid getting the remover on plastic parts. Don't touch the printing mechanism.
Cleaning the printer's insides shouldn't be necessary, unless you have the bad habit of leaving the top open. If you think you'll feel better giving the inside a go, use a keyboard vacuum cleaner. But whatever you do, don't put your fingers inside, except to change the ink cartridges. This is also a situation where zapping an electronic gizmo with compressed air isn't a good idea.
If you spot a toner spill in a laser printer, wipe it up carefully with paper towels or use a special toner vacuum with a micro-toner filter. (3M makes one kind.) Toner can be toxic; don't inhale it. Avoid getting toner on your hands or clothes; it's hard to remove.
Cleaning the outer casing is a simpler matter. You can get rid of any mysterious blob that won't budge with a little rubbing alcohol on a gauze pad. Or, if you have them, you can rip open one of those little alcohol prep pads the nurse wipes your arm with before you get a shot. A brisk swipe or two, and the goo goes away. Remember: This is only for the exterior.
See also Computers
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There's pottery, such as pithcers, plates, flower vases, and garden containers. And then there's pottery that belongs in an art gallery or museum. Once is utilitarian; the other is precious and requires a light touch--possibly a professional's care.
In the former category, there are two types of pottery: glazed and unglazed. Rule of thumb: The thicker the glaze, the easier to clean. You can get tougher on glazed pottery.
To clean glazed pottery---such household items as plates, mugs, serving trays and flower vases--proceed much as you would with your dishes. This stuff has been fired at 2,000 degrees F, meaning it can stand up to any heat your dishwasher can dish out. Hand-wash fragile or expensive pieces in the sink with warm water and dish washing liquid, so they won't run the risk of getting chipped in the dishwasher. A scrubber sponge will do nicely for most hand-washing, but the glaze will even stand up to the abrasion of a steel wool pad such as Brillo.
To remove heavy dirt and grease, first dampen a cloth in rubbing alcohol, wipe it over the gazed pottery, and then wash as usual in the dishwasher on sink.
To clean unglazed pottery--such as terra cotta flowerpots--just wash them in the sink with warm water and dishwashing liquid. Unglazed pottery is porous, meaning it will soak up water. It may take a day or two for the pot to dry out, but the water won't hurt it.
Fine antique or museum-quality pottery should be cleaned delicately if at all. If nothing is flaking loose on the surface, you can dust with a soft brush. If more cleaning is required, wipe gently with a damp cloth or a damp cloth with a little dishwashing liquid added. Inspect the piece first, however: If the pottery has been required in the past, such cleaning could damage the repair job. For more extensive cleaning, a professional conservator.
WATCH OUT
Some pottery is painted with acrylic, followed by a spray-on glaze that is not kiln-fired. This kind of glaze will not stand up to washing in water. To clean it, wipe with a damp cloth.
Power Tools
If you don't clean your power tools periodically, they'll get you back-by going into permanent retirement. Dust, sawdust, and rust can seep into the motor and accumulate, eventually bringing the tool to a standstill.
How frequently you clean your power tools depends on how often you use them and how carefully you store them. In general, give them a good cleaning any time you notice a buildup of residue such as saw dust, oil or grease. To keep everything running smoothly, don't store your tools where weather can affect them. And remember, If you don't clean them often enough, simple dust clogs can render built-in safety features useless.
To clean your power tools, first disconnect the juice. Unplug them or,if they run on batteries, remove the batteries and wipe out the battery compartment with a soft, dry cloth.
Do not, under any circumstances, spray anything liquid into the motor of any tool you're cleaning. Instead, get out the professional gadgeteer's favorite cleaner--a can of compressed air. Make sure you hold the can level before you point the extension straw and hit the spray button. If you don't hold the can perfectly level, you might wind up spraying liquid into the motor, and that would be disastrous. Spray a blast of air into the air vents. If you see a cloud of dust puff out of the motor, you know you've waited too long to clean your tools.
If you're picky about your tool's apperance, don't use abrasive cleaners. Simply squirt some glass cleaner onto a paper towel and wipe away the ugly stuff.
expert advice
For Sticky Situations >
Glue this here, drill that there... and before you know it, your power tools are smeared with adhesive. No problem, says Glen Kaszubski, technical director for Liquid Nails brand construction adhesives. Just apply a dab of petroleum jelly and rub the glue with a dry cloth until the goo is gone.
Pressure Cookers
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pressure cookers are tricky. Food particles can get trapped in the pressure gauge (that thing that rattles when the cooker is doing its job), and so the gauge should be cleaned after every use to keep food particles from turning into bacterial debris.
For cleaning out the pressure gauge, the best tool is a large safety pin. (Even though a toothpick would do quite nicely, it could break off in the little hole and, oops, no more pressure cooking.) Go at the little hole from bothsides. You'll be amazed at the gunk that you can force out.
Also give regular attention to the gasket, that rubber ring that seals the deal between the cooker and the lid. If you don't keep it clean, food buildup can result in bacterial buildup, and that's not part of any recipe. Remove the gasket, pour a little dishwashing detergent into your hands, hold them under the tap until you have suds, and then message the gasket unitl you're confident you've removed anything that might breed bacteria. Be careful not to stretch the gasket unncecessarily.
With repeated washing, the gasket can stretch and lose its shape. And a gasket that doesn't fit properly is as good as no gasket at all. It can also get crunchy with wear, so after you wash and dry it, rub the gasket with some oil--olive, canola, or vegetable--anything but corn oil, which can get sticky and actually attract debris.
It's good idea to keep an extra gasket on hand. (If you have trouble finding one for your cooker, order one from the store where you bought it or call the manufacturer for a list of places that sell the kind that fits you model.)
To clean the inside of the pot, nothing works better than good ol' garden variety dishwashing detergent, hot water, a plastic scrubbing sponge, and a little muscle power.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Cleaning for Canning >
If you use your pressure cooker for canning, be sure to add 1/4 teaspoon of cream of tartar or 1/4 cup white vinegar to the water before heating. This will prevent a ring from forming at the water level, and cleanup will be a breeze.
Printers
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First, remove any paper from the paper tray and, if the tray comes off, remove it. Using a dry cloth, wipe off the tray. You don't want water anywhere near the printer innards.
Clean the paper rollers to prevent paper from sticking to them. Clean plastic rollers with cotton swabs dipped in denatured alcohol. For rubber rollers, use latex paint remover--notably, the Goo Off brand, available at hardware stores. It smells yucky, but it will do wonders to revive rubber rollers. Avoid getting the remover on plastic parts. Don't touch the printing mechanism.
Cleaning the printer's insides shouldn't be necessary, unless you have the bad habit of leaving the top open. If you think you'll feel better giving the inside a go, use a keyboard vacuum cleaner. But whatever you do, don't put your fingers inside, except to change the ink cartridges. This is also a situation where zapping an electronic gizmo with compressed air isn't a good idea.
If you spot a toner spill in a laser printer, wipe it up carefully with paper towels or use a special toner vacuum with a micro-toner filter. (3M makes one kind.) Toner can be toxic; don't inhale it. Avoid getting toner on your hands or clothes; it's hard to remove.
Cleaning the outer casing is a simpler matter. You can get rid of any mysterious blob that won't budge with a little rubbing alcohol on a gauze pad. Or, if you have them, you can rip open one of those little alcohol prep pads the nurse wipes your arm with before you get a shot. A brisk swipe or two, and the goo goes away. Remember: This is only for the exterior.
See also Computers
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