Lacquer
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Lacquer is eye-catching because of its mirror like finish and also because that finish often belongs to furniture, such as a dining table or piano, that is the focal point of a room.
To dust a lacquered surface, use a large, folded piece of cheese cloth slightly moistened with water. Don't wipe in a circular motion--that could leave "whirlpools" on the finish. Wipe in only one direction, the one in which the piece was originally polished, if you can determine that.
To clean when dusting isn't enough mix a little dishwashing detergent in tepid water, dip in a soft cloth, and wring it out. Wipe the surface down. Wipe again with a rinsed-out damp cloth, when again with a dry cloth.
To polish a dulled surface, use a nonsilicone paste wax. Silicone will cause problem if the piece ever needs to be refinished. Apply the wax with a soft cloth in one direction and buff the same way. Don't overdo the buffing, because rubbing creates static electricity, which will attract dust particles.
WATCH OUT
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cleaning your lamps won't lead to fame and fortune as it did for Aladdin, but it will save you money, and it's guaranteed to brighten your surroundings.
To remove dust from a lamp, use a microfiber cloth regularly. The vacuum cleaner with its brush attachment may work better on some materials, such as unglazed pottery or wood. The more often you dust, the less often you'll have to do more intensive cleaning of your lamp.
Include the light bulb in your routine--that's where the money-saving comes in. Dust buildup reduces bulb efficiency, wastes energy, and raises your electricity bill.
To remove dirt, first unplug the lamp and remove the shade and the bulb. Start with a clean cloth or sponge dampened with plain water. Wipe all parts of the lamp, starting with the base and working up. Don't wet the socket or the plug.
To avoid dulling the finish, buff the lamp immediately with a clean, dry cloth. To attack more stubborn dirt, try about 1//2 teaspoon of dishwashing detergent applied directly to a cloth or sponge. Wipe the dirty areas, scrubbing gently if necessary. Rinse the cloth or sponge in clear water and go over the surface to remove the detergent.
Follow with the dry cloth. Polish the lamp occasionally with a polish suitable for the material the lamp is made of.
To wash glass globes or chimneys, clean them with a cloth or sponge and a solution of hot water and little dishwashing detergent. It's OK to immerse those parts as long as they don't have electrical connectors. Rinse with a solution of hot water and a dash of ammonia and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
expert advice
Restoring a Relic >
Bringing an antique lamp back to life involves more than split and polish. Jeff Howard, of Howard's Antiques in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, starts by removing old wiring and taking the lamp apart. Then he strips off lacquer and accumulated grime with paint remover.
Hand polishing follows, and Howard swears by Simichrome, a metal polish (see knives). Howard may relacquer the lamp, using a satin finish, or leave it unlacquered. New wiring finishes the job.
Lamp shades
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A lam shade can sometimes be a life-of-the -party hat, but more often it sets the mood in a room by directing and softening light. It does this best when it's clean.
To remove dust before it turns to grime, go over the surface---inside and out--with
a vacuum cleaner with the small brush attachment for sturdy cloth shades;
a microfiber cloth for glass, plastic, paper or metal shades;
a soft-bristled hosrehair paintbrush for silk, acetate, and pleated shades
Regular dusting will help you avoid higher-impact cleaning, which can be messy for you and dangerous for your lamp shade. Water can dissolve glue, for example, and this can cause the shade to fall apart.
To remove serious dirt, the safest cleaning method after dusting is to use a special sponge that's intended to be used dry. Ask for a dry-cleaning sponge at a hardware or home improvement store. Use it like an eraser to rub away dirt. Try it on any shade, but be sure to use it instead of water on paper shades and any other shade with glue.
To clean fabric shades that are stitched rather than glued, wash them in the bathtub. And while you're going to the trouble of doing one, it makes sense to do all your shades that need it. Metal and plastic shades can also be cleaned in the tub at the same time. To wash the shades, begin by drawing a couple of inches of tepid water into the tub. Add 1 tablespoon of dishwashing detergent and swish it around. Lay the shade on its side in the tub and gently roll it in the water. Metal and plastic shades can stand a little more vigorous cleaning, with a cloth or sponge. Change the water when it becomes dirty and wash again.
To rinse, drain the wash water and draw clear water. Again, roll the shade in the water and change the water when it turns gray. Metal and plastic shades can be rinsed under running water and wiped dry with a cloth.
To dry a cloth shade, use a towel to press out as much water as you can. Finish with a hair dryer, tripping the shade upside down frequently so that no water settles in the bottom of the shade, where it could leave a water stain. Drying quickly is important, because the metal parts of the shade can rust and stain the fabric.
To clean a glass shade, fill a sink with warm water and add 1or 2 teaspoons of ammonia. Immerse the shade in the water and wash it with a cloth. Use a toothbrush to get into crevices. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth.
Lattices
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lattices make attractive additions to a lawn or garden, but all those cracks and crevices! They create so many places for dirt and grime to hide.
To clean lattices with no plants attached, use a hose with a nozzle that sends the water out in a tightly focused stream. Use a stiff-bristled nylon or fiber brush to scrub dirty spots. If the lattices are wood, use the brush sparingly; you can use a freer hand on lattices of plastic, fiberglass, or metal. You may also use a power washer, available at tool-rental shops.
To attack that green moldy-mossy stuff that grows in shady spots, mix a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 1/2 cups of chlorine bleach in a bucket. Scrub the solution on with a brush. Rinse with plain water.
Simple solutions
Plants in your way? >
To clean lattices that are supporting plants, wash them in the early spring. Prune the plants buck to about 6 inches--most vines can easily take it--and remove the rest of the plant material from the lattices.
Lawn Mowers
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Take good care of your power mower, and it will take good care of your lawn. Good care means keeping the mower clean and maintaining it regularly.
To clean the underside, make sure the engine is off and can't accidentally start. Remove the spark plug wire (or in the case of an electric mower, make sure it is unplugged). Prop up one side of the mower on a block--don't turn it completely over. Use a garden hose to wash off loose grass and dirt. Then remove the remainder with a putty knife, followed by a stiff-bristled brush. If you do this every time you use the mower, you'll never get that caked, cruddy grass buildup.
On the mower's exterior, keep the engine free of dead grass, leaves, and grease (fire hazard). To keep the mower running well, brush off the air-intake screen and the cooling fins on the engine with a stiff brush to keep them free of debris.
Attend to the mower's air filter after every 25 hours of use. Replace a diposable paper filter (available where lawn mowers are sold.) A foam-type filter has a removable sponge that should be soaked in warm water and then dried. Follow by putting a few drops of clean engine oil into the sponge and squeezing it to distribute the oil. Then reinstall the sponge.
An annual professional tune-up for your lawn mower will save you a lot of trouble. It should include a carburetor adjustment and a cleaning of belts, cables, and switches. It also can include sharpening the blade and changing the oil, spark plug, and air filter if you prefer not to do those things yourself.
SIMPLE SOLUTIONS
A Kitchen Solution to a Yard Problem >
To prevent grass and dirt buildup under the deck of your lawn mower, use spray-on vegetable cooking oil. Clean the underside and then apply the oil on the metal after it dries. This will make it easy to clean the mower after each use.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lacquer is eye-catching because of its mirror like finish and also because that finish often belongs to furniture, such as a dining table or piano, that is the focal point of a room.
To dust a lacquered surface, use a large, folded piece of cheese cloth slightly moistened with water. Don't wipe in a circular motion--that could leave "whirlpools" on the finish. Wipe in only one direction, the one in which the piece was originally polished, if you can determine that.
To clean when dusting isn't enough mix a little dishwashing detergent in tepid water, dip in a soft cloth, and wring it out. Wipe the surface down. Wipe again with a rinsed-out damp cloth, when again with a dry cloth.
To polish a dulled surface, use a nonsilicone paste wax. Silicone will cause problem if the piece ever needs to be refinished. Apply the wax with a soft cloth in one direction and buff the same way. Don't overdo the buffing, because rubbing creates static electricity, which will attract dust particles.
WATCH OUT
- Don't use solvents, waxes, polishes, or harsh cleaners on old lacquer. On modern finishes test any cleaner or polish on an inconspicuous area.
- To avoid scratching a lacquer finish, don't place objects on the bare surface. Protect a dinning table with a tablecloth or place mats. And no dancing on the piano!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cleaning your lamps won't lead to fame and fortune as it did for Aladdin, but it will save you money, and it's guaranteed to brighten your surroundings.
To remove dust from a lamp, use a microfiber cloth regularly. The vacuum cleaner with its brush attachment may work better on some materials, such as unglazed pottery or wood. The more often you dust, the less often you'll have to do more intensive cleaning of your lamp.
Include the light bulb in your routine--that's where the money-saving comes in. Dust buildup reduces bulb efficiency, wastes energy, and raises your electricity bill.
To remove dirt, first unplug the lamp and remove the shade and the bulb. Start with a clean cloth or sponge dampened with plain water. Wipe all parts of the lamp, starting with the base and working up. Don't wet the socket or the plug.
To avoid dulling the finish, buff the lamp immediately with a clean, dry cloth. To attack more stubborn dirt, try about 1//2 teaspoon of dishwashing detergent applied directly to a cloth or sponge. Wipe the dirty areas, scrubbing gently if necessary. Rinse the cloth or sponge in clear water and go over the surface to remove the detergent.
Follow with the dry cloth. Polish the lamp occasionally with a polish suitable for the material the lamp is made of.
To wash glass globes or chimneys, clean them with a cloth or sponge and a solution of hot water and little dishwashing detergent. It's OK to immerse those parts as long as they don't have electrical connectors. Rinse with a solution of hot water and a dash of ammonia and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
expert advice
Restoring a Relic >
Bringing an antique lamp back to life involves more than split and polish. Jeff Howard, of Howard's Antiques in Great Barrington, Massachusetts, starts by removing old wiring and taking the lamp apart. Then he strips off lacquer and accumulated grime with paint remover.
Hand polishing follows, and Howard swears by Simichrome, a metal polish (see knives). Howard may relacquer the lamp, using a satin finish, or leave it unlacquered. New wiring finishes the job.
Lamp shades
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A lam shade can sometimes be a life-of-the -party hat, but more often it sets the mood in a room by directing and softening light. It does this best when it's clean.
To remove dust before it turns to grime, go over the surface---inside and out--with
a vacuum cleaner with the small brush attachment for sturdy cloth shades;
a microfiber cloth for glass, plastic, paper or metal shades;
a soft-bristled hosrehair paintbrush for silk, acetate, and pleated shades
Regular dusting will help you avoid higher-impact cleaning, which can be messy for you and dangerous for your lamp shade. Water can dissolve glue, for example, and this can cause the shade to fall apart.
To remove serious dirt, the safest cleaning method after dusting is to use a special sponge that's intended to be used dry. Ask for a dry-cleaning sponge at a hardware or home improvement store. Use it like an eraser to rub away dirt. Try it on any shade, but be sure to use it instead of water on paper shades and any other shade with glue.
To clean fabric shades that are stitched rather than glued, wash them in the bathtub. And while you're going to the trouble of doing one, it makes sense to do all your shades that need it. Metal and plastic shades can also be cleaned in the tub at the same time. To wash the shades, begin by drawing a couple of inches of tepid water into the tub. Add 1 tablespoon of dishwashing detergent and swish it around. Lay the shade on its side in the tub and gently roll it in the water. Metal and plastic shades can stand a little more vigorous cleaning, with a cloth or sponge. Change the water when it becomes dirty and wash again.
To rinse, drain the wash water and draw clear water. Again, roll the shade in the water and change the water when it turns gray. Metal and plastic shades can be rinsed under running water and wiped dry with a cloth.
To dry a cloth shade, use a towel to press out as much water as you can. Finish with a hair dryer, tripping the shade upside down frequently so that no water settles in the bottom of the shade, where it could leave a water stain. Drying quickly is important, because the metal parts of the shade can rust and stain the fabric.
To clean a glass shade, fill a sink with warm water and add 1or 2 teaspoons of ammonia. Immerse the shade in the water and wash it with a cloth. Use a toothbrush to get into crevices. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth.
Lattices
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lattices make attractive additions to a lawn or garden, but all those cracks and crevices! They create so many places for dirt and grime to hide.
To clean lattices with no plants attached, use a hose with a nozzle that sends the water out in a tightly focused stream. Use a stiff-bristled nylon or fiber brush to scrub dirty spots. If the lattices are wood, use the brush sparingly; you can use a freer hand on lattices of plastic, fiberglass, or metal. You may also use a power washer, available at tool-rental shops.
To attack that green moldy-mossy stuff that grows in shady spots, mix a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 1/2 cups of chlorine bleach in a bucket. Scrub the solution on with a brush. Rinse with plain water.
Simple solutions
Plants in your way? >
To clean lattices that are supporting plants, wash them in the early spring. Prune the plants buck to about 6 inches--most vines can easily take it--and remove the rest of the plant material from the lattices.
Lawn Mowers
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Take good care of your power mower, and it will take good care of your lawn. Good care means keeping the mower clean and maintaining it regularly.
To clean the underside, make sure the engine is off and can't accidentally start. Remove the spark plug wire (or in the case of an electric mower, make sure it is unplugged). Prop up one side of the mower on a block--don't turn it completely over. Use a garden hose to wash off loose grass and dirt. Then remove the remainder with a putty knife, followed by a stiff-bristled brush. If you do this every time you use the mower, you'll never get that caked, cruddy grass buildup.
On the mower's exterior, keep the engine free of dead grass, leaves, and grease (fire hazard). To keep the mower running well, brush off the air-intake screen and the cooling fins on the engine with a stiff brush to keep them free of debris.
Attend to the mower's air filter after every 25 hours of use. Replace a diposable paper filter (available where lawn mowers are sold.) A foam-type filter has a removable sponge that should be soaked in warm water and then dried. Follow by putting a few drops of clean engine oil into the sponge and squeezing it to distribute the oil. Then reinstall the sponge.
An annual professional tune-up for your lawn mower will save you a lot of trouble. It should include a carburetor adjustment and a cleaning of belts, cables, and switches. It also can include sharpening the blade and changing the oil, spark plug, and air filter if you prefer not to do those things yourself.
SIMPLE SOLUTIONS
A Kitchen Solution to a Yard Problem >
To prevent grass and dirt buildup under the deck of your lawn mower, use spray-on vegetable cooking oil. Clean the underside and then apply the oil on the metal after it dries. This will make it easy to clean the mower after each use.
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