Doghouses and Kennels
True enough, you don't have to change your pet's bedding a often as you change your sheets. But most of us wait way too long to freshen Fido's cozy corner. Once a month isn't too often.
Start cleaning a doghouse or kennel by towing it like you would a teenager's bedroom. Get everything out. If you use straw, throw it away. If your doggie like to curl up in blankets, pull
pull 'em out and toss 'em in the washer, just as you would your own blankets. Hose down the house or kennel, inside and out. You might need to lift one end to drain all the water. Then get ready to scrub.
When washing a doghouse or kennel, don't use anything the you wouldn't want your pet to lap up. Chemical household cleaners will make a home sparkle. But dogs aren't as particular about the way their home looks as they are about the way it smells. A pine-scented habitat might smell sparkly clean to you, but your dog might disagree. Instead, use a plastic-bristled brush to apply an organic cleaner, such as Simple Green, or try one of them homemade solutions:
Dolls
True enough, you don't have to change your pet's bedding a often as you change your sheets. But most of us wait way too long to freshen Fido's cozy corner. Once a month isn't too often.
Start cleaning a doghouse or kennel by towing it like you would a teenager's bedroom. Get everything out. If you use straw, throw it away. If your doggie like to curl up in blankets, pull
pull 'em out and toss 'em in the washer, just as you would your own blankets. Hose down the house or kennel, inside and out. You might need to lift one end to drain all the water. Then get ready to scrub.
When washing a doghouse or kennel, don't use anything the you wouldn't want your pet to lap up. Chemical household cleaners will make a home sparkle. But dogs aren't as particular about the way their home looks as they are about the way it smells. A pine-scented habitat might smell sparkly clean to you, but your dog might disagree. Instead, use a plastic-bristled brush to apply an organic cleaner, such as Simple Green, or try one of them homemade solutions:
- Mix 4 tablespoons of lemon extract or lemon juice with 1 gallon of water
- Mix 1 cup of vinegar to 3 cups of water.
Either of these environmentally friendly alternatives will get rid of all the must and dirt and will leave your hound's habitat clean and smelling good without a hint of chemicals.
Replacing the bedding is the last step. If your doggie like straw, put in some fresh straw and sprinkle it with baking soda to make the freshness last longer. If your pet prefers blankets, let the washed blankets dry in the sun for extra freshness then sprinkle some baking soda on them.
See also Pet Equipment
expert advice
Cleaning the Air >
You haven't completely cleaned our pet's environment until you've given it thefeng shui treatment, says Jayme Barett, author of Feng Shui Your Life. After you've thoroughly cleaned inside and out and replaced the bedding, you can cleanse the energy as well. Barrett advises burning sandalwood incense nearby and specifically recommends Asian or Indian incense, because it's stronger. If your dog sleeps in a kennel, drape a decorative square of fabric over the top. "It makes the dog feel more protected," Barret says.
Replacing the bedding is the last step. If your doggie like straw, put in some fresh straw and sprinkle it with baking soda to make the freshness last longer. If your pet prefers blankets, let the washed blankets dry in the sun for extra freshness then sprinkle some baking soda on them.
See also Pet Equipment
expert advice
Cleaning the Air >
Dolls
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A collector's doll may bear a hefty price tag, but a kid's beloved baby doll--no matter how bedraggled--is priceless for the memories it carries. And just the amount of handling a child's favorite doll gets makes it a magnet for dirt. Careful cleaning and maintenance are equally critical for saving a prized baby doll for future offspring or for maintaining the value of an expensive collector's item.
To wash a doll's clothing, begin by stripping the doll. Then make sport on the clothing.eyedropper, put a drop of liquid laundry detergent where it won't easily be seen, such as on a seam or a hem. If you can't see if after it dries, you're in the clear. Toss the doll's clothing in a lingerie bag and put it in the washer with the laundry detergent in cold water on the delicate setting. Don't dry the clothes in the dryer, however. If the clothes shrink, you can't expect your doll to diet. If the weather is good, hang them to dry on an outside clothesline for a fresh smell. If the weather is bad, lay the pieces on a towel to dry.
Using an
To clean the doll itself, remember that a damp cloth will remove a lot of the grime a doll picks up in the sandbox, in the attic, or just from being loved. If the doll needs a bath, fill a sink with warm water and mix in 2 tablespoons lemon extract (available in supermarkets). If the doll's body is all plastic or rubber, dunk the dolly, much as you would be a real baby. You might even invite your child to give baby a scrub with a washcloth made soapy with a little dishwashing liquid. Saliva mixed with anything--dirt, oat meal, sugar--can set like cement, so for the extra-tough dirt that comes with a lot o 'lovin', a gentle scrub with a soft toothbrush is just the ticket. If you need a little extra cleaning powder, dip the toothbrush in a solution of (1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide and 2 cups of water. Just make sure you rinse everything well before the next kiss.
To clean a collector's doll, also begin bydry, soft cloth to remove surface dirt from the "flesh" surfaces. For detailed areas--around the eyes or fingers, for instance--use a natural bristle artist's paintbrush to remove trapped dirt and dust. This should be all you need to do, because likely, collector's dolls don't tend to pick up serious stains. If the clothing is old or delicate, you can remove the musty smell that comes with age by hanging the clothes out in fresh air. If the clothing is not fragile, you might want to consider washing it using the method described for regular doll clothes--but be sure to do the eyedropper test first. For clothing stains that you don't want to wash, a household spot remover might get them out. Check the label for the best application procedure. Or you might try a solution of 2 teaspoons of lemon juice mixed with -2 cups of water. Dip an absorbent cloth or a paper towel into the solution and dab--don't rub--at the stain. It should lighten up right way.
stripping the doll. Never use a damp cloth on a porcelain collector's doll, because it might etch the paint. Instead, use a
Doormats
A collector's doll may bear a hefty price tag, but a kid's beloved baby doll--no matter how bedraggled--is priceless for the memories it carries. And just the amount of handling a child's favorite doll gets makes it a magnet for dirt. Careful cleaning and maintenance are equally critical for saving a prized baby doll for future offspring or for maintaining the value of an expensive collector's item.
To wash a doll's clothing, begin by stripping the doll. Then make sport on the clothing.eyedropper, put a drop of liquid laundry detergent where it won't easily be seen, such as on a seam or a hem. If you can't see if after it dries, you're in the clear. Toss the doll's clothing in a lingerie bag and put it in the washer with the laundry detergent in cold water on the delicate setting. Don't dry the clothes in the dryer, however. If the clothes shrink, you can't expect your doll to diet. If the weather is good, hang them to dry on an outside clothesline for a fresh smell. If the weather is bad, lay the pieces on a towel to dry.
To clean the doll itself, remember that a damp cloth will remove a lot of the grime a doll picks up in the sandbox, in the attic, or just from being loved. If the doll needs a bath, fill a sink with warm water and mix in 2 tablespoons lemon extract (available in supermarkets). If the doll's body is all plastic or rubber, dunk the dolly, much as you would be a real baby. You might even invite your child to give baby a scrub with a washcloth made soapy with a little dishwashing liquid. Saliva mixed with anything--dirt, oat meal, sugar--can set like cement, so for the extra-tough dirt that comes with a lot o 'lovin', a gentle scrub with a soft toothbrush is just the ticket. If you need a little extra cleaning powder, dip the toothbrush in a solution of (1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide and 2 cups of water. Just make sure you rinse everything well before the next kiss.
To clean a collector's doll, also begin bydry, soft cloth to remove surface dirt from the "flesh" surfaces. For detailed areas--around the eyes or fingers, for instance--use a natural bristle artist's paintbrush to remove trapped dirt and dust. This should be all you need to do, because likely, collector's dolls don't tend to pick up serious stains. If the clothing is old or delicate, you can remove the musty smell that comes with age by hanging the clothes out in fresh air. If the clothing is not fragile, you might want to consider washing it using the method described for regular doll clothes--but be sure to do the eyedropper test first. For clothing stains that you don't want to wash, a household spot remover might get them out. Check the label for the best application procedure. Or you might try a solution of 2 teaspoons of lemon juice mixed with -2 cups of water. Dip an absorbent cloth or a paper towel into the solution and dab--don't rub--at the stain. It should lighten up right way.
Doormats
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yes, doormats are supposed to get dirty-- it's their job. But at some point, your doormat will have absorbed all the dirt it can take. Then it simply becomes the bridge over which dirt travels into your house.
Knock out the dirt to start. Don't be timid. post or a clothesline and use a baseball bat to beat it like a pinta. After you've beaten out all the loose dirt, take a wire brush and dislodge the stubborn stuff. If there's any gooey gunk like wax or chewing gum still clingings to the mat, press an ice cube against the offending lump until it's brittle enough to scrape off with a spoon.
Grab two adjacent corners of the doormat and shake hard. The loosest dirt will leave willingly. Then drape the mat over a
To remove serious stains on a doormat made of rubber or rope, use an aerosol spot remover, such as K2r. If you think it needs a more through cleaning, wash it in the clothes washer on a gentle cycle. For wooden doormats--or for troublesome doormats stain generally-mix 4 tablespoons of lemon extract (available in supermarkets) or lemon juice with 1 gallon of water. Use a stiff plastic brush to scrub with the solution until the stain goes way.
Doors
yes, doormats are supposed to get dirty-- it's their job. But at some point, your doormat will have absorbed all the dirt it can take. Then it simply becomes the bridge over which dirt travels into your house.
Knock out the dirt to start. Don't be timid. post or a clothesline and use a baseball bat to beat it like a pinta. After you've beaten out all the loose dirt, take a wire brush and dislodge the stubborn stuff. If there's any gooey gunk like wax or chewing gum still clingings to the mat, press an ice cube against the offending lump until it's brittle enough to scrape off with a spoon.
To remove serious stains on a doormat made of rubber or rope, use an aerosol spot remover, such as K2r. If you think it needs a more through cleaning, wash it in the clothes washer on a gentle cycle. For wooden doormats--or for troublesome doormats stain generally-mix 4 tablespoons of lemon extract (available in supermarkets) or lemon juice with 1 gallon of water. Use a stiff plastic brush to scrub with the solution until the stain goes way.
Doors
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Doors collect dust and dirt just as walls do. So whatever you use on the walls is probably just right for doors as well. Few doors are as flat as walls, though, so you have to be equipped to attack those crevices to get them really clean.
To remove surface dirt, dust down the door with a dry towel. Then tie a soft, old towel over the bristle end of a broom and brush into the angles and crevices where dust mounts up. If there's a lot of detail work on the door, use a soft toothbrush to get into the tightest corners.
Wash the door once you've cleaned off all the surface dust and dirt. If you have a stained wooden door, use wood oil soap and mix it with water according to the directions on the label. For painted doors, a couple of home brews will
do the job effectively.
Mix 1 gallon of warm water with 1/2 cup ammonia, 1/4 cup white vinegar, and 1/4 cup cleaning soda. (You can find cleaning soda in the laundry section of the grocery store. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda is a good choice.)
Mix 1 cup of ammonia and 1 teaspoon of mild dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of warm water.
Soak a natural sponge until it's completely pliable. Then squeeze out as much water as possible. You should wash from the bottom upward to avoid run marks. So beginning at the bottom of the door, scrub with the sponge in small circular motions. Rinse the sponge often and thoroughly to avoid putting dirt back on the door. If you keep a clean solution, you won't have to rinse.
To clean door hardware, the good news is that you don't have to remove it to clean it or the door. Leave the screwdriver in the toolbox and grab a box of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap, for instance). Place a layer on the door surface around the hardware you want to clean, securing the plastic with masking tape. If you're dealing with metal, such as a door knocker or kick plate or even a door-knobs
, a metal cleaner, such as Mass metal cleaner, will spliff up all types of metal, including brass.It has jewelery's rouge in it, so it's very gentle but does and excellent job. With glass or cermaic door knobs, you don't need the plastic wrap. Just take a few swipes with a rag dampened with rubbing alcohol, which won't hurt the great cleaning job you've just done on the door.
Doors collect dust and dirt just as walls do. So whatever you use on the walls is probably just right for doors as well. Few doors are as flat as walls, though, so you have to be equipped to attack those crevices to get them really clean.
To remove surface dirt, dust down the door with a dry towel. Then tie a soft, old towel over the bristle end of a broom and brush into the angles and crevices where dust mounts up. If there's a lot of detail work on the door, use a soft toothbrush to get into the tightest corners.
Wash the door once you've cleaned off all the surface dust and dirt. If you have a stained wooden door, use wood oil soap and mix it with water according to the directions on the label. For painted doors, a couple of home brews will
Mix 1 gallon of warm water with 1/2 cup ammonia, 1/4 cup white vinegar, and 1/4 cup cleaning soda. (You can find cleaning soda in the laundry section of the grocery store. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda is a good choice.)
Mix 1 cup of ammonia and 1 teaspoon of mild dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of warm water.
Soak a natural sponge until it's completely pliable. Then squeeze out as much water as possible. You should wash from the bottom upward to avoid run marks. So beginning at the bottom of the door, scrub with the sponge in small circular motions. Rinse the sponge often and thoroughly to avoid putting dirt back on the door. If you keep a clean solution, you won't have to rinse.
To clean door hardware, the good news is that you don't have to remove it to clean it or the door. Leave the screwdriver in the toolbox and grab a box of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap, for instance). Place a layer on the door surface around the hardware you want to clean, securing the plastic with masking tape. If you're dealing with metal, such as a door knocker or kick plate or even a door-knobs
, a metal cleaner, such as Mass metal cleaner, will spliff up all types of metal, including brass.It has jewelery's rouge in it, so it's very gentle but does and excellent job. With glass or cermaic door knobs, you don't need the plastic wrap. Just take a few swipes with a rag dampened with rubbing alcohol, which won't hurt the great cleaning job you've just done on the door.
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