Irons
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You've made the classic ironing boo-boo, and you have synthetic fibers stuck to the soleplate--your iron's flat under surface.
To remove fibers such as nylon and polyester, heat the iron until the fibers liquefy. Then, on nonstick and aluminum or chrome soleplates, use a wooden spatula or flat stick (for instance, a Popsicle stick) to scrape off the fibers. Never scrape with plastic, metal, or anything abrasive. Run the iron over a terry cloth towel, or anything abrasive. Run the iron over a terry cloth towel or some other rough material that the remaining fibers can stick to.
If you don't know whats stuck on your soleplate and the mark doesn't liquefy when you heat the iron, use any hot iron cleaner, available at fabric shops and hardware stores.
If the stain still remains on an aluminum or chrome soleplate, your next option is to make a paste of baking soda and water in the consistency of toothpaste. Rub it on a cool iron with a soft cloth, then wipe it off with another damp cloth. Don't use this method on nonstick soleplates.
On Teflon or metallic coating nonstick surfaces, a damp cloth should wipe off any water marks, and a wooden spatula should remove any fiber stains. Should marks still remain, rub a nylon scouring pad on the iron's soleplate when it's cool.
Here's how to clean specific substances from your iron:
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You've made the classic ironing boo-boo, and you have synthetic fibers stuck to the soleplate--your iron's flat under surface.
To remove fibers such as nylon and polyester, heat the iron until the fibers liquefy. Then, on nonstick and aluminum or chrome soleplates, use a wooden spatula or flat stick (for instance, a Popsicle stick) to scrape off the fibers. Never scrape with plastic, metal, or anything abrasive. Run the iron over a terry cloth towel, or anything abrasive. Run the iron over a terry cloth towel or some other rough material that the remaining fibers can stick to.
If you don't know whats stuck on your soleplate and the mark doesn't liquefy when you heat the iron, use any hot iron cleaner, available at fabric shops and hardware stores.
If the stain still remains on an aluminum or chrome soleplate, your next option is to make a paste of baking soda and water in the consistency of toothpaste. Rub it on a cool iron with a soft cloth, then wipe it off with another damp cloth. Don't use this method on nonstick soleplates.
On Teflon or metallic coating nonstick surfaces, a damp cloth should wipe off any water marks, and a wooden spatula should remove any fiber stains. Should marks still remain, rub a nylon scouring pad on the iron's soleplate when it's cool.
Here's how to clean specific substances from your iron:
- To clean sticky, oil-based residue from an aluminum or chrome soleplate, use an all-purpose cleaner on a cold iron. Spray the cleaner onto the soleplate and rub with a soft cloth. Remove the cleaner by rubbing with a wet cloth. (Never rinse the electrical appliance in water.) Before using the iron
- again, heat it and rub the soleplate on a terry cloth rag to remove any traces of the cleaner and residue.
- To clean acetate or nylon that has melted and hardened on the soleplate, use acetone on a cloth and rub the affected area of the cold soleplate until the melted residue is gone. Don't get the acetone on the plastic shell of the iron, because the acetone will melt it.
- To clean a waxy stain (from a crayton, for instance), heat your iron as hot as possible and iron newspaper until the wax is gone. Don't worry. The print won't come off on your iron.
- To remove small bits of burned lint, use your iron's "burst of steam" feature as directed.
- To prevent stains from forming on the soleplate (so you can avoid having to clean as above), use a press cloth, a lightweight pure cotton cloth, Which will act as a barrier between the iron and your clothing. A press cloth will prevent synthetic fibers or starch from attaching to the iron.
To clean the iron's steam chamber, check the manufacturer's guidelines about the type of water to use, distilled or tap water. Generally, newer models use tap water--the minerals actually help in the steaming process. with the cord unplugged, fill the iron with water. Then plug in the iron and depending on your model, either turn the iron to its cleaning mode function (most manufacturers recommend using the self-cleaning feature once a year) or to the steaming feature. sink, the soleplate facedown, until the steam stops. Unplug the iron and leave it in the sink for another half hour to fully dry.
Hold the steaming iron over a
An alternative: Place the iron facedown on a heatproof cooking rack while it steams. The steam will remove lint, dirt, dust, and mineral deposits that have built up in the steam vents. Finish by wiping with a dry cloth.
If you haven't steamed your iron for a while, you may find that the water or steam looks rusty. This is actually burned lint, which can stain your clothes. So it's important to clean your steam chamber and vents every couple of months.
Another way to clean the steam chamber: If the steam-cleaning technique described above doesn't remove the mineral deposits from the steam chamber, try using vinegar if your manufacturer instructions allow it. Pour white vinegar into the steam chamber and steam it through the vents. Rinse out the vinegar and refill the chamber with water.
Let the water steam through the iron to remove all the vinegar. If you're not careful about removing the vinegar. If you're not careful about removing the vinegar, it may stain your clothes the next time you use the iron. The acidic nature of the vinegar may also etch and damage the interior of the iron if left inside the steam chamber. Besides you don't want to walk around smelling like a solid.
In case the steam vents on the soleplate become clogged, unbend a paper clip and push it into the holes to reopen the vents before steaming the iron.
Cleaning the iron's outer shell is simple. just wipe it with a damp rag. Always dry and cool your iron before putting it away, and store it in an upright position on the heel rest.
Ivory and Bone
An alternative: Place the iron facedown on a heatproof cooking rack while it steams. The steam will remove lint, dirt, dust, and mineral deposits that have built up in the steam vents. Finish by wiping with a dry cloth.
If you haven't steamed your iron for a while, you may find that the water or steam looks rusty. This is actually burned lint, which can stain your clothes. So it's important to clean your steam chamber and vents every couple of months.
Another way to clean the steam chamber: If the steam-cleaning technique described above doesn't remove the mineral deposits from the steam chamber, try using vinegar if your manufacturer instructions allow it. Pour white vinegar into the steam chamber and steam it through the vents. Rinse out the vinegar and refill the chamber with water.
Let the water steam through the iron to remove all the vinegar. If you're not careful about removing the vinegar. If you're not careful about removing the vinegar, it may stain your clothes the next time you use the iron. The acidic nature of the vinegar may also etch and damage the interior of the iron if left inside the steam chamber. Besides you don't want to walk around smelling like a solid.
In case the steam vents on the soleplate become clogged, unbend a paper clip and push it into the holes to reopen the vents before steaming the iron.
Cleaning the iron's outer shell is simple. just wipe it with a damp rag. Always dry and cool your iron before putting it away, and store it in an upright position on the heel rest.
Ivory and Bone
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Treat ivory and bone with care. Whether you're cleaning a figurine or a beaded necklace, it's important to assess the condition of the item, because that will determine your approach.
Does you ivory piece come from the tusk of an elephant or mammoth? If so, you have true ivory. Today, however, the tusks of other mammals, such as those of walruses and certain whales, and some synthetics are considered ivory as well. Ivory is chemically similar to bone and antler, but there are differences. Ivory has no blood vessels, where as bone does. Bone is fragile and porous, whereas ivory is dense. Ivory and bone are similar in this respect: They're sensitive to heat, light, and moisture.
If your ivory is fragile, take it to a conservator to be cleaned. Because ivory readily absorbs oils and stains, wear white cotton gloves while working with ivory, or at the very least, wash your hand with soap and water to remove oils and dirt.
If your ivory or bone is sturdy and stable, clean off the surface dust or dirt with a barely damp cotton, cloth or cotton swabs. To dampen, use a solution of mild dishwashing detergent and water or use just water. If you use too much moisture, surface of your item with a dry cloth and apply a second cloth or cotton swab dampened with mineral spirits to remove any soap residue. Wipe with a dry cloth.
Never rub the surface of ivory and bone. You don't want to remove the original surface coats, pigments, or patinas.
To remove wax or oil from ivory, use a cloth or cotton swab barely dampened with mineral spirits. If your ivory or bone has scrimshaw (engravings or decorations) on it, test an inconspicuous part of the scrimshaw to see whether it will withstand the cleaning technique. If it doesn't react well to the test, don't clean. the scrimshaw yourself.
If your ivory or bone is stained (a yellowing stain is typical), you'll have to call a conservator. These status are usually due to oxidation that comes with age or may be caused by the oils on your hands. Sometimes, placing the ivory or bone in sunlight bleaches it and helps it regain its warm white color. Keeping ivory or bone in the dark accelerates the yellowing associated with aging. But do not expose ivroy or bone to long periods of intense sunlight or heat, because that will dry it out and cause it to crack.
Store ivory and bone in a carefully controlled environment, ideally 45 percent to 55 percent relative humidity and about 70 degrees F, in low light. Conditions should be kept constant. The most severe damage to ivory and bone is caused by fluctuations in relative humidity and temperature. Low humidity will dry ivory out, causing shrinkage and cracking. High humidity and changes in temperature can cause your ivory to expand and contract.
Treat ivory and bone with care. Whether you're cleaning a figurine or a beaded necklace, it's important to assess the condition of the item, because that will determine your approach.
Does you ivory piece come from the tusk of an elephant or mammoth? If so, you have true ivory. Today, however, the tusks of other mammals, such as those of walruses and certain whales, and some synthetics are considered ivory as well. Ivory is chemically similar to bone and antler, but there are differences. Ivory has no blood vessels, where as bone does. Bone is fragile and porous, whereas ivory is dense. Ivory and bone are similar in this respect: They're sensitive to heat, light, and moisture.
If your ivory is fragile, take it to a conservator to be cleaned. Because ivory readily absorbs oils and stains, wear white cotton gloves while working with ivory, or at the very least, wash your hand with soap and water to remove oils and dirt.
If your ivory or bone is sturdy and stable, clean off the surface dust or dirt with a barely damp cotton, cloth or cotton swabs. To dampen, use a solution of mild dishwashing detergent and water or use just water. If you use too much moisture, surface of your item with a dry cloth and apply a second cloth or cotton swab dampened with mineral spirits to remove any soap residue. Wipe with a dry cloth.
Never rub the surface of ivory and bone. You don't want to remove the original surface coats, pigments, or patinas.
To remove wax or oil from ivory, use a cloth or cotton swab barely dampened with mineral spirits. If your ivory or bone has scrimshaw (engravings or decorations) on it, test an inconspicuous part of the scrimshaw to see whether it will withstand the cleaning technique. If it doesn't react well to the test, don't clean. the scrimshaw yourself.
If your ivory or bone is stained (a yellowing stain is typical), you'll have to call a conservator. These status are usually due to oxidation that comes with age or may be caused by the oils on your hands. Sometimes, placing the ivory or bone in sunlight bleaches it and helps it regain its warm white color. Keeping ivory or bone in the dark accelerates the yellowing associated with aging. But do not expose ivroy or bone to long periods of intense sunlight or heat, because that will dry it out and cause it to crack.
Store ivory and bone in a carefully controlled environment, ideally 45 percent to 55 percent relative humidity and about 70 degrees F, in low light. Conditions should be kept constant. The most severe damage to ivory and bone is caused by fluctuations in relative humidity and temperature. Low humidity will dry ivory out, causing shrinkage and cracking. High humidity and changes in temperature can cause your ivory to expand and contract.
WATCH OUT
All of these factors could damage your ivory or bone:
- Display areas exposed to sunlight or a spot light.
- A closed display case with light bulbs inside, heating the interior
- Nearby ventilation or heating ducts, the tops of appliances, or other sources of heat or cold
- Sulfur in rubber-based storage materials, adhesives, and paint (because sulfur in rubber can discolor ivory)
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