Pet Equipment:
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You keep your children's things clean: their bedding and bowls, toys and sweaters. Do the same for your pet. It's a way of saying "I Love you." Moreover, cleaning prolongs the life of the equipment, keeps your pet healthy, and reduces pet odors. If your pet could talk, it would say, "Thanks. I Love you, too."
Wash food and water bowls daily to avoid the growth of bacteria. Put them in the dishwasher, if they are dishwasher safe. You can include them with your own dishes--the high dishwasher temperatures will sanitize everything. Or hand-wash using hot, soapy water. (Do this separately.) Keep two sets of dishes for your pet, and rotate them. Stainless steel bowls come clean easiest.
clean leashes periodically to remove dirt and salt, which can corrode the metal parts. soak nonleather leashes in a sink full of warmwater with a squirt of dishwashing liquid and dash of liquid fabric softener (to keep the leash soft, not stiff). Rub clean with a sponge. Rinse in a sink full of clean, warmwater. Don't wash leashes in your clothes washer, becuase they could get tanlged and the metal clasps could dent your machine. Hang to dry. (See also Leather)
Hand-wash doggie sweaters using the same care you'd use on your own sweaters--unless the care instructions say otherwise. Most dog sweaters are made from the same materials as people sweaters--wool or acrylic. Fill a basin with lukewarm water and add a gentle fabric wash, such as Woolite, or a squirt of mild dishwashing liquid. Soak and then gently rub out any stain. Rinse thoroughly in clear, lukewarm water. Gently wring the sweater out. Wrap it in a clean towel to remove moisture. Lay the towel out on a flat surface and work the weather into shape with your hands. Let it dry. Or, if Snookkums is worth it, have the sweater dry-cleaned.
OOPS!
Rover in Clover >
Amy Goldman, president of Coverknits, a maker of high-end pet sweaters, is befuddled by some pet owner's cleaning choices. There's the woman who bought one of Godman's handknit, 100 percent wool dog sweaters at a posh manhattan pet shop. "She ran the sweater in the washer and dryer and totally ruined it", says Goldman of the $120 item. "Then she had the nerve to try to return it." The woman had clearly not heeded the care tag on the sweater that wanted against machine-washing.
Then there's the man who throws out his dog's sweater as soon as it gets dirty and buys a new one. If his dog is like most poop-wallowing, garden-digging canines, that could mean a lot of sweaters.
Wash pet toys regularly to keep them clean and bacteria free. Wash rubber and plastic toys in a sink full of hot, soapy water with a dash of bleach thrown in. Scrub with a nylon-bristled brush. Stuffed toys and rope toys can go in the washing machine and the dryer. when they fray, or the stuffling starts to escape, toss them and get a new boy.
To wipe nasty slobber off that Frisbee (or rubber ball) you've throwing for Spot, use a wet wipe. Take long a portable travel carton of wipes when you play fetch in the park with Spot--or any other time you're away from your garden hose. all those follow dog owners you meet and greet (with a handshake) will thank you.
See also Doghouses and Kennels and Pests
Pewter
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Did you know that pewter is the fourth most precious metal, behind platinum, gold, and silver? A tin alloy, pewter has long been prized for its lasting value. It does not rust and tarnishes only slightly or not at all (depending on the alloy's metal content). Antique pewter, which is usually high in lead, can look dark and dull, but that patina is part of its appeal and value as an antique. Before cleaning pewter, first determine whether you pewter piece is an antique or of more recent vintage.
To remove dirt and grime from antique or newer pewter, wash it in a sudsy solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. Gently wipe the surface with a sponge or soft cloth. Rinse with clean water and then drip dry in a dish rack or on a folded towel. Never put pewter in the dishwasher. If your piece is an antique, stop here. Because of its metal content, polishing it won't necessarily make it shine--but it may decrease its value.
To make bright, modern pewter shine, use a silver or brass polish or a mildly abrasive scouring powder, such as Ajax, and a soft cloth. For severe corrosion, try applying the metal polish with Ultra fine steel wool. Use grade 0000 only. Any coarser steel wool will scratch the finish. Buff with a soft cloth after using the steel wool.
Photographs, Slides, and Negatives
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Photographs, slides, and negatives are easily damaged, and your options for cleaning them are quite limited. So keeping them out of harm's way is the name of the game. How much you're willing to do for a photography probably depends on whether it's a family heirloom or just one out of a mountain of snapshots from last year's vacation.
The ultimate for a photograph is a glass covering and a frame. This way, the only thing that gets dirty is a hand surface that's easy to wipe clean. A frame will enhance the photograph's value and help it last longer. But don't set the photograph directly against the glass--ue acid-free matting between the photo and the glass. And don't hang the photo where direct sunlight will reach it.
To clean the framed photo, take it off the wall and lay it flat. Spray some glass cleaner onto a soft, clean cloth and wipe off the dust. Never spray directly onto the glass--the cleaner could drip behind the frame and damage the photo.
For valuable unframed photos, acid-free paper, plastic envelopes, and acid-free storage boxes offer good protection. Another good storage option are albums made of high-quality materials.
Remember that high temperatures, high humidity, and direct sunlight will damage photographic materials.
Handle photographic materials very carefully. The salts and oils from your skin can damage them easily, so never touch the image area directly. Ideally, handle photographic material while wearing white cotton gloves. If you must use bare hands, handle your photos, slides, and negatives by the edges only.
If your photograph has dirt on the surface, see if it will come off with the gentle swipe of a soft brush. If not, stop them--anything more will put the photo at risk. You'll have to take it to a professional lab to be washed.
If your photo has finger marks around the edges or on an unimportant part of the image, you may be able to wipe it away. Dip a cotton swab in distilled water and wipe at the mark very gently. Don't go over the mark again and again, because you'll soften the emulsion and damage it. Let the photo dry before you store it.
To clean dust from slides and negatives, pick up a can of compressed air at a supermarket or at a camera, computer, or discount store. Test the can by spraying your skin first. If the can has been exposed to high temperatures or has been shaken, you might get some water spraying out with the compressed air, which you don't want to get on your photographic materials. Wearing white cotton gloves, hold your slide or negative by the edges and position the nozzle to the side, 3 inches from the film surface. Spray in several quick bursts to remove any dust.
RULES OF THE GAME
To protect Photos >
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You keep your children's things clean: their bedding and bowls, toys and sweaters. Do the same for your pet. It's a way of saying "I Love you." Moreover, cleaning prolongs the life of the equipment, keeps your pet healthy, and reduces pet odors. If your pet could talk, it would say, "Thanks. I Love you, too."
Wash food and water bowls daily to avoid the growth of bacteria. Put them in the dishwasher, if they are dishwasher safe. You can include them with your own dishes--the high dishwasher temperatures will sanitize everything. Or hand-wash using hot, soapy water. (Do this separately.) Keep two sets of dishes for your pet, and rotate them. Stainless steel bowls come clean easiest.
clean leashes periodically to remove dirt and salt, which can corrode the metal parts. soak nonleather leashes in a sink full of warmwater with a squirt of dishwashing liquid and dash of liquid fabric softener (to keep the leash soft, not stiff). Rub clean with a sponge. Rinse in a sink full of clean, warmwater. Don't wash leashes in your clothes washer, becuase they could get tanlged and the metal clasps could dent your machine. Hang to dry. (See also Leather)
Hand-wash doggie sweaters using the same care you'd use on your own sweaters--unless the care instructions say otherwise. Most dog sweaters are made from the same materials as people sweaters--wool or acrylic. Fill a basin with lukewarm water and add a gentle fabric wash, such as Woolite, or a squirt of mild dishwashing liquid. Soak and then gently rub out any stain. Rinse thoroughly in clear, lukewarm water. Gently wring the sweater out. Wrap it in a clean towel to remove moisture. Lay the towel out on a flat surface and work the weather into shape with your hands. Let it dry. Or, if Snookkums is worth it, have the sweater dry-cleaned.
OOPS!
Rover in Clover >
Amy Goldman, president of Coverknits, a maker of high-end pet sweaters, is befuddled by some pet owner's cleaning choices. There's the woman who bought one of Godman's handknit, 100 percent wool dog sweaters at a posh manhattan pet shop. "She ran the sweater in the washer and dryer and totally ruined it", says Goldman of the $120 item. "Then she had the nerve to try to return it." The woman had clearly not heeded the care tag on the sweater that wanted against machine-washing.
Then there's the man who throws out his dog's sweater as soon as it gets dirty and buys a new one. If his dog is like most poop-wallowing, garden-digging canines, that could mean a lot of sweaters.
Wash pet toys regularly to keep them clean and bacteria free. Wash rubber and plastic toys in a sink full of hot, soapy water with a dash of bleach thrown in. Scrub with a nylon-bristled brush. Stuffed toys and rope toys can go in the washing machine and the dryer. when they fray, or the stuffling starts to escape, toss them and get a new boy.
To wipe nasty slobber off that Frisbee (or rubber ball) you've throwing for Spot, use a wet wipe. Take long a portable travel carton of wipes when you play fetch in the park with Spot--or any other time you're away from your garden hose. all those follow dog owners you meet and greet (with a handshake) will thank you.
See also Doghouses and Kennels and Pests
Pewter
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did you know that pewter is the fourth most precious metal, behind platinum, gold, and silver? A tin alloy, pewter has long been prized for its lasting value. It does not rust and tarnishes only slightly or not at all (depending on the alloy's metal content). Antique pewter, which is usually high in lead, can look dark and dull, but that patina is part of its appeal and value as an antique. Before cleaning pewter, first determine whether you pewter piece is an antique or of more recent vintage.
To remove dirt and grime from antique or newer pewter, wash it in a sudsy solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. Gently wipe the surface with a sponge or soft cloth. Rinse with clean water and then drip dry in a dish rack or on a folded towel. Never put pewter in the dishwasher. If your piece is an antique, stop here. Because of its metal content, polishing it won't necessarily make it shine--but it may decrease its value.
To make bright, modern pewter shine, use a silver or brass polish or a mildly abrasive scouring powder, such as Ajax, and a soft cloth. For severe corrosion, try applying the metal polish with Ultra fine steel wool. Use grade 0000 only. Any coarser steel wool will scratch the finish. Buff with a soft cloth after using the steel wool.
Photographs, Slides, and Negatives
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photographs, slides, and negatives are easily damaged, and your options for cleaning them are quite limited. So keeping them out of harm's way is the name of the game. How much you're willing to do for a photography probably depends on whether it's a family heirloom or just one out of a mountain of snapshots from last year's vacation.
The ultimate for a photograph is a glass covering and a frame. This way, the only thing that gets dirty is a hand surface that's easy to wipe clean. A frame will enhance the photograph's value and help it last longer. But don't set the photograph directly against the glass--ue acid-free matting between the photo and the glass. And don't hang the photo where direct sunlight will reach it.
To clean the framed photo, take it off the wall and lay it flat. Spray some glass cleaner onto a soft, clean cloth and wipe off the dust. Never spray directly onto the glass--the cleaner could drip behind the frame and damage the photo.
For valuable unframed photos, acid-free paper, plastic envelopes, and acid-free storage boxes offer good protection. Another good storage option are albums made of high-quality materials.
Remember that high temperatures, high humidity, and direct sunlight will damage photographic materials.
Handle photographic materials very carefully. The salts and oils from your skin can damage them easily, so never touch the image area directly. Ideally, handle photographic material while wearing white cotton gloves. If you must use bare hands, handle your photos, slides, and negatives by the edges only.
If your photograph has dirt on the surface, see if it will come off with the gentle swipe of a soft brush. If not, stop them--anything more will put the photo at risk. You'll have to take it to a professional lab to be washed.
If your photo has finger marks around the edges or on an unimportant part of the image, you may be able to wipe it away. Dip a cotton swab in distilled water and wipe at the mark very gently. Don't go over the mark again and again, because you'll soften the emulsion and damage it. Let the photo dry before you store it.
To clean dust from slides and negatives, pick up a can of compressed air at a supermarket or at a camera, computer, or discount store. Test the can by spraying your skin first. If the can has been exposed to high temperatures or has been shaken, you might get some water spraying out with the compressed air, which you don't want to get on your photographic materials. Wearing white cotton gloves, hold your slide or negative by the edges and position the nozzle to the side, 3 inches from the film surface. Spray in several quick bursts to remove any dust.
RULES OF THE GAME
To protect Photos >
- Handle photos, slides, and negatives only by the edges, preferably using white cotton gloves. Never touch the image area.
- Frame important photo under glass, using acid-free mating.
- For removal of serious dirt, take your photo--graphic materials to a professional lab.
- Limit exposure to heat, humidity, and sunlight.
- Use acid-free storage materials (envelopes, sheathes, album pages, boxes, and such).
An antistatic cloth can remove dust from slides and negatives ---provided you use a light touch. Buy an antistatic cloth at a photo shop. Hold the slide or negative by the edges in one hand. With the other hand, fold the cloth around the film so that it touches bothsides. With as little pressure as possible, draw the cloth down the surface, moving only in one direction. The more pressure you apply, the more likely that you'll drag the dust across the surface and scratch it.
To protect your negatives from dirt and dust, slip them into the sleeves of 8 1/2-by-11-inch clear plastic sheets that are sold in photography stores. Do this the moment you get the negatives home from the photo lab. These sheets fit into ring binders and are an excellent way to mark and catalog your negatives.
To protect your negatives from dirt and dust, slip them into the sleeves of 8 1/2-by-11-inch clear plastic sheets that are sold in photography stores. Do this the moment you get the negatives home from the photo lab. These sheets fit into ring binders and are an excellent way to mark and catalog your negatives.
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