Playground Equipment:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Because it was built to be outside, in the elements, playground equipment is durable and easy to clean. Don't worry about sanitizing it. You can't--and you don't need to. Just keep it safe--free from slippery mud and mildew--and respectable looking. Here's how.
Spray down playground equipment with a garden hose once every couple of weeks, inside and out. This will remove sticks and leaves and muddy footprints. Depending on traffic, every so often scrub down parts with a solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water. scrub swing seats, slides, platforms, vinyl tarps, and other areas with a soft-bristled brush to loosen stubborn bird poop and other grime. Rinse by spraying everything down with your hose. Don't use bleach or cleaning products containing chlorine on playground equipment. These chemicals can eat away at rubber material and destroy glue. soapy water and a garden hose should be sufficient.
To clean plastic bubbles and windows, use the same soapy solution and a soft cloth. Don't scrub with a brush, since you may scratch these surfaces. If the surfaces is extremely dirty, let the soapy solution loosen the dirt, or loosen it with a jet from the garden hose, and then rub gently with the cloth, turning and rinsing the cloth often. Remove oil or tar by daubing with naptha solvent, available at paint and hardware stores, or kerosene, and then washing immediately with the soapy solution. Don't use solvents (such as acetone, gasoline, or thinners) or scouring powders on clear plastic.
Plexiglas
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When it comes to cleaning sheet plastic or acrylic, better known by the brand name Plexiglas, one caution is worth stating right up front: Don't use commercial window cleaners. It may seem logical to reach for the Windex, but most window cleaners contain ammonia, which will eat into acrylic. So whether you're cleaning Plexiglas storm windows, furniture, or napkin holders, follow this advice.
To clean acrylic plastic, use a solution of dishwashing liquid and lukewarm water and apply it with a soft cloth. Avoid dry dusting which can grind dirt into the acrlic's surface. If the surface in extremely dirty, let the soapy solution loosen the dirt and then rub gently with the cloth, turning it and rinsing it often. Remove oil or tar by daubing with naptha solvent or kerosene and then washing immediately with the soapy solution. Don't use solvents (such as acetone, gasoline or thinners) or scouring powders to sheet plastic.
Pool Tables
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Despite their bulk size, pool tables are precision instruments with finely balanced slate tops and baby-bottom-smooth felt coverings. You don't want to damage your table, even when armed with the good intention of cleaning it. Fortunately, there's not much you need to do to keep a pool table clean.
Dust the wooden legs and rails as you would fine furniture. Follow the pool table manufacturer's recommendations for the type of finish that's on the wood. When in doubt, use a dry dusting cloth or a feather duster.
Brush the felt top after each use. Use a soft horsechair- or nylon- bristled brush specifically desinged for billiard felt. They're available at billiard supply stores. Brush in one direction only--the direction in which you usually break. This keeps the nap of the felt in good condition.
Dust the felt top periodically using your vacuum cleaner and a brush attachment. This picks up chalk and other dust from beneath the cloth, which can abrade the felt fibers over time. But be very careful not to use a nozzle that will pull the cloth away from the bed.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Minnesota Fats would Approve >
Here are two hints that will help keep your pool table in game-playing condition:
Porcelain
To remove dirt from hard-to-reach crannies, such as inside procelain flowers or in the folded hands of a figurine, use a spray-on bleach-based product, such as Tilex. (You should have to do this only on bisque porcelain. On glazed porcelain, scrubbing the same crannies with a toothbrush and soapy water should be sufficient.) Spray the product on, wait a few minutes, and then rinse it well with fresh water. Always clean before trying the bleach spray. otherwise the bleach may set the stain. (see OOps below)
For really stubborn stains on bisque porcelian, soak the piece (or the stained part of the piece) in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Leave it until the stain is gone, which could take 15 minutes or 72 hours. To rinse the piece, soak it in clean water (distilled water is best for really fine pieces) for as long as you soaked it in the hydrogen peroxide.
OOPS!
Set in Stoneware >
Early in her career, professional restorer Andrea Daley, founder of the Association of Restorers, learned the hard way how not to clean smoke damaged porcelain. Hired to restore a highly collectible Dorothy Doughty bird, at the time worth about $1,000, she skipped her normal cleaning steps. "It was so dirty from the smoke," she says, "I thought I'd cut to the chase and go straight for the bleach." She
did, but something, about the chemical mix of smoke and bleach set the stain permanently. Nothing would remove it. "I had to paint over the entire thing," she laments.
Pots and Pans
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Because it was built to be outside, in the elements, playground equipment is durable and easy to clean. Don't worry about sanitizing it. You can't--and you don't need to. Just keep it safe--free from slippery mud and mildew--and respectable looking. Here's how.
Spray down playground equipment with a garden hose once every couple of weeks, inside and out. This will remove sticks and leaves and muddy footprints. Depending on traffic, every so often scrub down parts with a solution of dishwashing liquid and warm water. scrub swing seats, slides, platforms, vinyl tarps, and other areas with a soft-bristled brush to loosen stubborn bird poop and other grime. Rinse by spraying everything down with your hose. Don't use bleach or cleaning products containing chlorine on playground equipment. These chemicals can eat away at rubber material and destroy glue. soapy water and a garden hose should be sufficient.
To clean plastic bubbles and windows, use the same soapy solution and a soft cloth. Don't scrub with a brush, since you may scratch these surfaces. If the surfaces is extremely dirty, let the soapy solution loosen the dirt, or loosen it with a jet from the garden hose, and then rub gently with the cloth, turning and rinsing the cloth often. Remove oil or tar by daubing with naptha solvent, available at paint and hardware stores, or kerosene, and then washing immediately with the soapy solution. Don't use solvents (such as acetone, gasoline, or thinners) or scouring powders on clear plastic.
Plexiglas
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When it comes to cleaning sheet plastic or acrylic, better known by the brand name Plexiglas, one caution is worth stating right up front: Don't use commercial window cleaners. It may seem logical to reach for the Windex, but most window cleaners contain ammonia, which will eat into acrylic. So whether you're cleaning Plexiglas storm windows, furniture, or napkin holders, follow this advice.
To clean acrylic plastic, use a solution of dishwashing liquid and lukewarm water and apply it with a soft cloth. Avoid dry dusting which can grind dirt into the acrlic's surface. If the surface in extremely dirty, let the soapy solution loosen the dirt and then rub gently with the cloth, turning it and rinsing it often. Remove oil or tar by daubing with naptha solvent or kerosene and then washing immediately with the soapy solution. Don't use solvents (such as acetone, gasoline or thinners) or scouring powders to sheet plastic.
Pool Tables
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Despite their bulk size, pool tables are precision instruments with finely balanced slate tops and baby-bottom-smooth felt coverings. You don't want to damage your table, even when armed with the good intention of cleaning it. Fortunately, there's not much you need to do to keep a pool table clean.
Dust the wooden legs and rails as you would fine furniture. Follow the pool table manufacturer's recommendations for the type of finish that's on the wood. When in doubt, use a dry dusting cloth or a feather duster.
Brush the felt top after each use. Use a soft horsechair- or nylon- bristled brush specifically desinged for billiard felt. They're available at billiard supply stores. Brush in one direction only--the direction in which you usually break. This keeps the nap of the felt in good condition.
Dust the felt top periodically using your vacuum cleaner and a brush attachment. This picks up chalk and other dust from beneath the cloth, which can abrade the felt fibers over time. But be very careful not to use a nozzle that will pull the cloth away from the bed.
Simple SOLUTIONS
Minnesota Fats would Approve >
Here are two hints that will help keep your pool table in game-playing condition:
- Keep a lint roller handy for picking up particles from the table while you're using it.
- keep your table covered when not in use. This will keep dust off and reduce the amount of cleaning you must do. Use a plastic or vinyl covering.
Porcelain
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Procelain is one of the most fragile of all ceramics. Fixed at very high temperatures, it is glasslike, so clean with care. How you clean depends on which finish your porcelain has-a bisquie, or unglaze, finish or a glossy glazed finish.
To wash porcelain, use a rubber dishpan or a sink lined with a towel or rubber mat to protect against breakage.
To remove dirt and grime from either glazed or unglazed porcelain, first try a mild solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. Wipe with a cloth or scrub gently with a soft, nylon bristled brush. A toothbrush is great for nooks and crannies. Rinse well using clean water.
Procelain is one of the most fragile of all ceramics. Fixed at very high temperatures, it is glasslike, so clean with care. How you clean depends on which finish your porcelain has-a bisquie, or unglaze, finish or a glossy glazed finish.
To wash porcelain, use a rubber dishpan or a sink lined with a towel or rubber mat to protect against breakage.
To remove dirt and grime from either glazed or unglazed porcelain, first try a mild solution of warm water and dishwashing liquid. Wipe with a cloth or scrub gently with a soft, nylon bristled brush. A toothbrush is great for nooks and crannies. Rinse well using clean water.
If that doesn't remove all the stains, try something stronger, such as an all-purpose cleaner such as Formula 409. Always rinse immediately and completely. These cleaning compounds can stain or etch porcelain. Air-dirty in a dish rack or on a folded towel on the countertop.
To remove coffee or tea stains from the inside of procelain cups or a procelain teapot, scrub gently with a cloth or soft-bristled brush and a paste made from a baking soda and water.
To remove dirt from hard-to-reach crannies, such as inside procelain flowers or in the folded hands of a figurine, use a spray-on bleach-based product, such as Tilex. (You should have to do this only on bisque porcelain. On glazed porcelain, scrubbing the same crannies with a toothbrush and soapy water should be sufficient.) Spray the product on, wait a few minutes, and then rinse it well with fresh water. Always clean before trying the bleach spray. otherwise the bleach may set the stain. (see OOps below)
For really stubborn stains on bisque porcelian, soak the piece (or the stained part of the piece) in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Leave it until the stain is gone, which could take 15 minutes or 72 hours. To rinse the piece, soak it in clean water (distilled water is best for really fine pieces) for as long as you soaked it in the hydrogen peroxide.
OOPS!
Set in Stoneware >
Early in her career, professional restorer Andrea Daley, founder of the Association of Restorers, learned the hard way how not to clean smoke damaged porcelain. Hired to restore a highly collectible Dorothy Doughty bird, at the time worth about $1,000, she skipped her normal cleaning steps. "It was so dirty from the smoke," she says, "I thought I'd cut to the chase and go straight for the bleach." She
did, but something, about the chemical mix of smoke and bleach set the stain permanently. Nothing would remove it. "I had to paint over the entire thing," she laments.
Pots and Pans
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The good news: It's OK to put some cookware in the dishwasher. This goes for stainless steel and aluminum (as long as they have all-metal handles) as well as glass cookware. But to be safe, check the manufacturer's directions first.
cast iron and copper should not go in the dishwasher, and manufacturer of nonstick cookware often advise against putting any of those pots or pans in the dishwasher as well. The environment in a dishwasher--with hot water spouts and spray rinses--is much harsher than soapy water and gentle care in the sink. Besides, dishwasher detergents generally rely on alkaline-heavy cleaners to cut grease, and extremely alkaline cleaners can
mar cookware just as badly as acidic cleaners can.
Hand-wash pots and pans that can't be put in the dishwasher much as you would dishes. Scrape out any food residue with a wooden spoon or rubber spatuala. Fill the sink with moderately hot water and add a squirt of dishwashing liquid. As soon as the pot has cooled sufficiently, slide it into the soapy water and let it sit for a minute.
Then gently scrub in a circular motion, using a sponge, brush, or dishcloth. Many nonstick surfaces--especially older ones--are easily scratched, so pay attention to the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Clean the pot attention to the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Clean the pot inside and out, sides and bottom. You'll know it's come clean when it's smooth to the touch. Rinse in clean, hot water and dry with a
kitchen towel.
Removing burned-on food from your pots and pans can be done without working up a sweat--but you do need lots of patience, lots of hot water, and dishwashing detergent. squirt some dishwashing detergent in the pot or pan, fill it with hot water, and leave the kitchen. Nothing removes burned-on food like a good two-hour soak in hot, soapy water.
If you have built up layers of baked-on food on cookware that is neither aluminum nor nonstick, mix 1/2 cup of ammonia with 2 quarts of hot water in your pot and let it sit for a couple of hours. (Don't mix ammonia or even vinegar with household cleaners, or you'll wind up sniffing noxious fumes.)
See also Copper, Dishes and Iron.
When Germs Float in Uninvited
when the dirty pots and pans pile up, you probably fantasize about a massive flood swooshing through the kitchen and cleaning it all in seconds. Of course, it doesn't work that way, notes Hugh Rushing, executive director of the Cookware Manufacturers Association in Mountain Brook, Alabama. As any homeowner who's been in a real flood knows, a lot of silt and mud get left behind. Germs, too.
"we frequently get a lot of calls from people whose cookware has been in a flood," he says. All you can do, he advises, is mix hot water, with soap and start scrubbing.If you're concerned that elbow grease won't get all of the germs, Rushing says, bake the offended cookware
in a 250 degrees F oven for one hour. This is even OK for cookware with plastic handles. "Most plastic handles won't stand over 350 degrees, but they'll be fine for an hour in 250."
The good news: It's OK to put some cookware in the dishwasher. This goes for stainless steel and aluminum (as long as they have all-metal handles) as well as glass cookware. But to be safe, check the manufacturer's directions first.
cast iron and copper should not go in the dishwasher, and manufacturer of nonstick cookware often advise against putting any of those pots or pans in the dishwasher as well. The environment in a dishwasher--with hot water spouts and spray rinses--is much harsher than soapy water and gentle care in the sink. Besides, dishwasher detergents generally rely on alkaline-heavy cleaners to cut grease, and extremely alkaline cleaners can
mar cookware just as badly as acidic cleaners can.
Hand-wash pots and pans that can't be put in the dishwasher much as you would dishes. Scrape out any food residue with a wooden spoon or rubber spatuala. Fill the sink with moderately hot water and add a squirt of dishwashing liquid. As soon as the pot has cooled sufficiently, slide it into the soapy water and let it sit for a minute.
Then gently scrub in a circular motion, using a sponge, brush, or dishcloth. Many nonstick surfaces--especially older ones--are easily scratched, so pay attention to the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Clean the pot attention to the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Clean the pot inside and out, sides and bottom. You'll know it's come clean when it's smooth to the touch. Rinse in clean, hot water and dry with a
kitchen towel.
Removing burned-on food from your pots and pans can be done without working up a sweat--but you do need lots of patience, lots of hot water, and dishwashing detergent. squirt some dishwashing detergent in the pot or pan, fill it with hot water, and leave the kitchen. Nothing removes burned-on food like a good two-hour soak in hot, soapy water.
If you have built up layers of baked-on food on cookware that is neither aluminum nor nonstick, mix 1/2 cup of ammonia with 2 quarts of hot water in your pot and let it sit for a couple of hours. (Don't mix ammonia or even vinegar with household cleaners, or you'll wind up sniffing noxious fumes.)
See also Copper, Dishes and Iron.
When Germs Float in Uninvited
when the dirty pots and pans pile up, you probably fantasize about a massive flood swooshing through the kitchen and cleaning it all in seconds. Of course, it doesn't work that way, notes Hugh Rushing, executive director of the Cookware Manufacturers Association in Mountain Brook, Alabama. As any homeowner who's been in a real flood knows, a lot of silt and mud get left behind. Germs, too.
"we frequently get a lot of calls from people whose cookware has been in a flood," he says. All you can do, he advises, is mix hot water, with soap and start scrubbing.If you're concerned that elbow grease won't get all of the germs, Rushing says, bake the offended cookware
in a 250 degrees F oven for one hour. This is even OK for cookware with plastic handles. "Most plastic handles won't stand over 350 degrees, but they'll be fine for an hour in 250."
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