Cassette Players
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If your cassette player is losing its highs and lows, it's time to break the sound barrier. The audio problem may very well be caused by dust and grime combined with the oxide buildup that occurs when an audiotape moves through the player. You can improve the sound by cleaning the tape path.
Keep in mind that the cheaper the tape you're using the more quickly the oxide will accumulate in your player.
Clean the player after every 75 hours or so of use and at least twice that often if you're
using poor-quality tapes.
To clean the tape path, you need to wipe over everything that the tape touches as it's played--the heads, tape guides, chrome pin, and black rubber roller. Saturate three to four cotton swabs with isopropyl (rubbing) alochol and thoroughly swab each area. The chrome heads should be wiped both vertically and horizontally. Keep cleaning until the final cotton swab comes away with no brown residue. Don't worry about black residue from the roller--that's from the rubber.
You can also buy cassette cleaning tapes, which generally don't clean as thoroughly as the cotton swab method but are a good alternative for tape players whose insides are hard to reach, like those in car stereos. Most cleaning tapes contain a diluted alochol-based fluid. You just pop the tape into the cassette player and let it rotate for 10 to 15 seconds.
Now you're ready for some easy listening.
To extend the life of cassettes, store them properly. Keep them out of exterior heat (that includes the backseat of your car in midsummer) and away from direct sunlight. Store them in their cases away from magnetic fields created by computers, televisions, and video equipment.
see also CD Players and CDS and DVD players
CD Players and CDs
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When your CDs start skipping or the disk won't spin, there's a good chance the player's laser lens needs a quick shine. A clean machine produces better sound, and a little regular maintenance could mean you won't miss a beat.
While variety of mechanical failures
can sideline your player,it's worth taking a few minutes to see if cleaning will solve the problem--especially when you factor in the high cost of professional repair.
Cleaning the laser lens is inexpensive and simple on top-loading player and portable units. Front-loading players and carousel units require removing the player's cover and finding the lens. Often there are too many mechanisms in the way, and extensive disassembling should be left to the pros. In those cases, you can attempt to clean the lens with a cleaning disc, available for about $10 to $15 in many stores that sell CDs. The disc looks like a CD, but it shiny side has tiny brushes on it, and as the
disc spins it brushes and lens. However, the lens has to be able to "see" before the disc can spin, so a really dusty laser lens often won't respond when a cleaning disc is inserted.
But if your player's laser is in plain view in a top-loading model, even the most inexperienced home mehanic can clean it. Before you begin, unplug the CD player. If it's battery-powered, make sure the unit is off. Then do the following:
Cleaning your CDs from time to time is also important, not only so that they play without distortion but also to prevent dust on the CDs from clogging up the player's works. Using a CD cleaning cloth or a soft cloth moistened with a little rubbing alcohol, hold the CD by its outer edges in one hand while cleaning with the other. Wipe the CD from the center to the outer edge; as though you were wiping the spokes of a wheel from the hub to the rim.
Proper storage of your CDs will go a long way toward extending their playing time. Store them in their cases, and inspect them periodically for dust and fingerprints, which can cause a tracking error. Keep your player and CDs out of direct sunlight.
One last tip: If the player is brought directly from a cold location to a warm one, moisture may condense on the lens, which will prevent the unit from playing. If this happens, remove the CD and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate.
See also Cassette Players and DVD Players
Ceilings
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If your cassette player is losing its highs and lows, it's time to break the sound barrier. The audio problem may very well be caused by dust and grime combined with the oxide buildup that occurs when an audiotape moves through the player. You can improve the sound by cleaning the tape path.
Keep in mind that the cheaper the tape you're using the more quickly the oxide will accumulate in your player.
using poor-quality tapes.
To clean the tape path, you need to wipe over everything that the tape touches as it's played--the heads, tape guides, chrome pin, and black rubber roller. Saturate three to four cotton swabs with isopropyl (rubbing) alochol and thoroughly swab each area. The chrome heads should be wiped both vertically and horizontally. Keep cleaning until the final cotton swab comes away with no brown residue. Don't worry about black residue from the roller--that's from the rubber.
You can also buy cassette cleaning tapes, which generally don't clean as thoroughly as the cotton swab method but are a good alternative for tape players whose insides are hard to reach, like those in car stereos. Most cleaning tapes contain a diluted alochol-based fluid. You just pop the tape into the cassette player and let it rotate for 10 to 15 seconds.
Now you're ready for some easy listening.
To extend the life of cassettes, store them properly. Keep them out of exterior heat (that includes the backseat of your car in midsummer) and away from direct sunlight. Store them in their cases away from magnetic fields created by computers, televisions, and video equipment.
see also CD Players and CDS and DVD players
CD Players and CDs
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When your CDs start skipping or the disk won't spin, there's a good chance the player's laser lens needs a quick shine. A clean machine produces better sound, and a little regular maintenance could mean you won't miss a beat.
While variety of mechanical failures
 |
| Dirty particles |
Cleaning the laser lens is inexpensive and simple on top-loading player and portable units. Front-loading players and carousel units require removing the player's cover and finding the lens. Often there are too many mechanisms in the way, and extensive disassembling should be left to the pros. In those cases, you can attempt to clean the lens with a cleaning disc, available for about $10 to $15 in many stores that sell CDs. The disc looks like a CD, but it shiny side has tiny brushes on it, and as the
disc spins it brushes and lens. However, the lens has to be able to "see" before the disc can spin, so a really dusty laser lens often won't respond when a cleaning disc is inserted.
But if your player's laser is in plain view in a top-loading model, even the most inexperienced home mehanic can clean it. Before you begin, unplug the CD player. If it's battery-powered, make sure the unit is off. Then do the following:
- Locate the laser lens, which is a round glass bubble about a quarter-inch in diameter. The slightest bit of dust can prevent the laser from "reading" the CD.
- Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and squeeze out the excess into a paper towel so it doesn't drip.
- Using a circular motion, gently rub the lens for 5 to 10 seconds. The lens will move a little, but that's OK.
- Let it dry. Depending on how much alcohol was left on the lens, it will take 10 to 20 minutes to dry. The CD player won't turn until it has sufficiently dried out.
Cleaning your CDs from time to time is also important, not only so that they play without distortion but also to prevent dust on the CDs from clogging up the player's works. Using a CD cleaning cloth or a soft cloth moistened with a little rubbing alcohol, hold the CD by its outer edges in one hand while cleaning with the other. Wipe the CD from the center to the outer edge; as though you were wiping the spokes of a wheel from the hub to the rim.
Proper storage of your CDs will go a long way toward extending their playing time. Store them in their cases, and inspect them periodically for dust and fingerprints, which can cause a tracking error. Keep your player and CDs out of direct sunlight.
One last tip: If the player is brought directly from a cold location to a warm one, moisture may condense on the lens, which will prevent the unit from playing. If this happens, remove the CD and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate.
See also Cassette Players and DVD Players
Ceilings
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If you want to brighten your overhead view, take aim at that grubby ceiling. Ceilings attract airborne dirt, cigarette smoke, and grease. Cleaning them is a project that's tempting to put off, since ceilings are hand to reach and awkward to clean. But a few tricks of the trade can minimize the misery. Whenever possible, use long-handled tools instead of balancing on a ladder or step stool.
Dusting the ceiling is sometimes all that's needed, and to do that, all you need is a long-handled duster. An effective duster, especially for removing cobwebs, is the Dazzle Webster All-Purpose Duster by Sunshine, which is generally available in home improvement stores.
The device, which has a 60-inch extension handle, captures and holds fine dust and dirt and eliminates cobwebs without smearing. A long-handled lamb's wool duster or a vacuum with a brush attachment also works well.
To clean a dirty ceiling you have to do the job by hand. First, you'll need to do a little prep work. Put down drop cloths or newspapers to protect furniture, electronic equipment, and floors. Wear safety goggles small particulars you can't really see coming at you. You'll probably want to wear rubber gloves as well. you can use a
Simple SOLUTIONS
Face Up to a Drippy Situation >
If you use liquid cleaners to clean your ceiling, there's a better than even chance that some of that liquid will come dribbling down your arm onto your clothes or into your face. The solution: Wear rubber gloves and fold the ends up into cluffs, so anything that drips from your hands stays in the glove.
Sponge mop with an extender handle, but you'll have to be careful to apply even pressure and get an even distribution of the cleaning product so it won't streak. Or you can use a dry foam rubber sponge, which means hauling out a stepladder. Take care to follow basic safety rules, such as
placing theladder securely on a level surface to prevent tripping, and never standing on the top step.
For painted ceilings, whether they're covered with oil-base or latex paint, a general-purpose cleaner, such as Spic and Span or Mr. clean works well. Mix 2 to 3 ounces of general-purpose cleaner in 1 gallon of water, dip your sponge in the solution, wring out the excess, and wipe the dirty area. Rinsing is necessary only if the ceiling is heavily soiled, but whether or not you rinse, you'll need to wipe away to excess moisture with a dry towel to prevent bead marks.
A spray-on acoustical finish on a ceiling has a rough surface that is best cleaned using a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment.
Ceiling Tiles
If you want to brighten your overhead view, take aim at that grubby ceiling. Ceilings attract airborne dirt, cigarette smoke, and grease. Cleaning them is a project that's tempting to put off, since ceilings are hand to reach and awkward to clean. But a few tricks of the trade can minimize the misery. Whenever possible, use long-handled tools instead of balancing on a ladder or step stool.
Dusting the ceiling is sometimes all that's needed, and to do that, all you need is a long-handled duster. An effective duster, especially for removing cobwebs, is the Dazzle Webster All-Purpose Duster by Sunshine, which is generally available in home improvement stores.
The device, which has a 60-inch extension handle, captures and holds fine dust and dirt and eliminates cobwebs without smearing. A long-handled lamb's wool duster or a vacuum with a brush attachment also works well.
To clean a dirty ceiling you have to do the job by hand. First, you'll need to do a little prep work. Put down drop cloths or newspapers to protect furniture, electronic equipment, and floors. Wear safety goggles small particulars you can't really see coming at you. You'll probably want to wear rubber gloves as well. you can use a
Simple SOLUTIONS
Face Up to a Drippy Situation >
If you use liquid cleaners to clean your ceiling, there's a better than even chance that some of that liquid will come dribbling down your arm onto your clothes or into your face. The solution: Wear rubber gloves and fold the ends up into cluffs, so anything that drips from your hands stays in the glove.
Sponge mop with an extender handle, but you'll have to be careful to apply even pressure and get an even distribution of the cleaning product so it won't streak. Or you can use a dry foam rubber sponge, which means hauling out a stepladder. Take care to follow basic safety rules, such as
placing theladder securely on a level surface to prevent tripping, and never standing on the top step.
For painted ceilings, whether they're covered with oil-base or latex paint, a general-purpose cleaner, such as Spic and Span or Mr. clean works well. Mix 2 to 3 ounces of general-purpose cleaner in 1 gallon of water, dip your sponge in the solution, wring out the excess, and wipe the dirty area. Rinsing is necessary only if the ceiling is heavily soiled, but whether or not you rinse, you'll need to wipe away to excess moisture with a dry towel to prevent bead marks.
A spray-on acoustical finish on a ceiling has a rough surface that is best cleaned using a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment.
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An easy remedy for dirty acoustical ceiling tiles can be found in your medicine cabinet: hydrogen peroxide, an environmentally friendly product that contains powerful oxidizing agents.
To clean vinyl-coated ceiling tiles, buy 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution (rather than the special industrial-strength version), which is widely available in grocery and drugstores. And wear goggles to keep debris and the perioxide mist out of your eyes. Mix about 1 ounce of hydrogen perioxide in 1 quart of water and pour it into a spray bottle. Peroxide, a mild bleach, will whiten the tiles. Best of all, no rubbing is required--simply spray the mixture on the tiles, applying it evenly, and let it air-dry.
To clean noncoated ceiling tiles-- which generally aren't washable--use a dry sponge cleaner, such as a Wonder Sponge. Dry sponges are made from natural rubber and are sometimes treated with mild detergents. When using a dry sponge, wipe the ceiling tiles with an even, sweeping motion.
To clean vinyl-coated ceiling tiles, buy 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution (rather than the special industrial-strength version), which is widely available in grocery and drugstores. And wear goggles to keep debris and the perioxide mist out of your eyes. Mix about 1 ounce of hydrogen perioxide in 1 quart of water and pour it into a spray bottle. Peroxide, a mild bleach, will whiten the tiles. Best of all, no rubbing is required--simply spray the mixture on the tiles, applying it evenly, and let it air-dry.
To clean noncoated ceiling tiles-- which generally aren't washable--use a dry sponge cleaner, such as a Wonder Sponge. Dry sponges are made from natural rubber and are sometimes treated with mild detergents. When using a dry sponge, wipe the ceiling tiles with an even, sweeping motion.
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