Baskets
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Baskets have become a fixture in most homes, whether they're stored in the basement until Eastern rolls around or displayed year round. Either way, their woven construction makes them virtual dust magnets. A few simple cleaning rules can keep you basking in baskets.
To clean an unfinished wicker basket, a gentle vacuum is all that's required, since too much moisture damp cloth.
will damage the basket. On fragile baskets, though, forego the vacuum cleaner--its suction may be too powerful. Instead, dust a fragile basket with a
To Clean a varnished or painted basket, start with a gentle vacuum. Then use a spray bottle filled with water and a tablespoon of vinegar. The spray allows you to penetrate the small areas between the wicker work. Wipe the basket dry with a very soft cloth, such as a baby diaper or baby washcloth, because they're less likely to get caught on rough edges.Use a cotton swab to get to the tight places. Air out the basket in the sun or a dry room, but keep it away from heat sources, which can warp the basket.
To clean most other baskets, use a vacuum cleaner, followed by a mild solution of water and a bit of dishwashing liquid on a soft cloth. Apply a soft brush if needed for problem spots. Avoid any cleaner with phosphates, which can eventually cause the basket to disintegrate.
Bathtubs
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When it comes to spaces that soothe, it's hard to beat the bathtub. But be prepared to take the grit with the glory--maintaining a temple of clean takes regular care.
For everyday care, wipe down the tub after each use with water and a cloth or sponge to keep stubborn soap scum under control. Staying on top of the problem like this
goes a long way, especially considering that most bathtubs today come with dire warnings about the danger of abrasive cleaners. And it's certainly true that if you scrub your way
through the tub's protective finish. you'll soon have stains that are embedded in the tube's material--whether it be fiberglass, procelain, or enamel.
To clean a procelain tub, make your own simple rub-a-dub formula: Prepare a paste made of borax and water, dip a soft scrubber sponge in it, and scrub away. To polish stainless steel parts of fixtures, gently rub with, baking soda on a damp sponge. Rinse well with water.
To remove rust stains, use an orange oil-based cleaner, such as Touch of Oranges. When the bathtub is dry, apply a small amount to a soft scrubber sponge and rub in a circular motion. The rust stains lift right off. Rinse with water and repeat if necessary.
To remove blue-green stains--caused by water with a high copper content---make up a paste: Combine equal amounts of cream of tartar and baking soda (usually a tablespoon of each is enough) and add some lemon juice drop by drop until you have a paste. Rub it into the stain with your fingers or a soft cloth. Leave it for half an hour and rinse well with water. Repeat if necessary.
Cleaning fiberglass tubs can be difficult because mild cleaners have little impact on a seriously soiled unit and abrasive cleaners applied with too much scrubbing pressure will quickly dull the finish.
For everyday cleaning, spray on a household cleaner or tub-and-tile cleaner and wipe with a nonabrasive sponge. If it reaches the point that you have to bring out the big guns, use a powdered cleaner, such as Comet, and a light-duty scrubbing sponge. Be sure to rinse well with water so that the chemicals wan't stay on the surface.
Now that you've finished your tub, you're ready to sit back and enjoy a little splendor in the bath.
Beadwork
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ancient craft of beading has taken on a new life in recent years, and the baubles are showing up on everything from vases to blue jeans to picture frames. Some beads are remarkably durable, others quite fragile. So when your beads need a little brightening, follow the doctor's credo: First, do no harm.
Beadwork on casual clothing has become a fashion staple and can be cleaned at home more readily than the fine breading on formal wear, which is best left to professionals. Beads used on jeans and casual wear are typically made of plastic and can usually be put in the washer with mild detergent on the gentle cycle. Still it's important to double-check the manufacturer's cleaning instructions on the label.
Simple Solutions
Glued-on Beads >
Glass beads on a vase or picture frame or ornament can be cleaned with glass cleaner, but remember to spray the cleaner on the cloth instead of directly on the item. Then wipe and air-dry. Harsh solvents
can loosen the glue that keeps the beads in place.
Loose glass beads are the easiest to deal with. Wash them in a bowl of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid. If the beads are textured, use a soft toothbrush to loosen grime in crevices. Then rinse thoroughly with water
and towel dry.
Strung beads are more vulnerable than loose beads, because the thread that holds them all together needs special consideration. Wash a beaded necklace or bracelet in the same solution of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid in a bowl, but don't let the beads soak. Rinse them with water immediately after cleaning, pat dry with a towel, and leave them lying flat --not hanging which can stretch the thread--until the thread has had time to dry completely. Or use a soft toothbrush that has been dipped in a bowl of dry baking soda and brush the beads gently. Then rub them with a soft cloth.
Vintage beads require even more caution. Instead of submerging them in soapy water, wipe them gently with a damp cloth dipped in a solution of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water and air-dry.
Beams
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exposed beams look good and lend a spacious feel to any room--but it's beauty at a price. Mostly found in cathedral ceilings, beams tower above a conventional ceiling, and reaching those lofty heights is usually the biggest challenge.
To dust beams, get out your vacuum cleaner and its extension wand, snap on the brush attachment, and get ready for some Michelangelo-like neck stretches. Or you can attach a lint roller replacement tube to a paint roller and run it across the exposed surfaces. You may need a stepladder to reach the higher parts of a cathedral ceiling.
If the beams are really dusty and dirty, you'll need to wash them, which requires using an extension ladder. For wood covered with a urethane finish, mix a mild detergent with water, then wipe and rinse a small section at a time using washcloths or, for harder-to-reach areas, a sponge mop.Go easy with the water solution--you want to wipe the beams, not drown them. That's especially true when they're unfinished. For those beams, follow the same steps as for finished beams, but omit the detergent and clean only with water.
Bedspreads
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laundering a bedspread, particularly if it's large or lofty with batting, can be difficult to do at home. Most home washers and dryers just aren't big enough to accommodate them. So you might want
to take your bedspread out for a little drive--to the neighborhood self-service laundry, where washers and dryers are bigger than most home varieties. Before washing a spread, check the care label to make sure it is washable. Pretreat heavily soiled areas with a prewash product, such as Shout. Set the washer on the highest water level, delicate agitation, and normal spin. Add detergent and partially fill the washer's tub with warm water. Stop
An Ounce of Stain Prevention
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whenever you buy a new bedspread or have one custom made, keep track of fabric care instructions. Many bedspreads today are sewn from fabric coated with Teflon, Scotchgard, or other stain repellents. These coatings wear off with repeated washings or dry cleanings, says Gina Crill,
postsales support specialist with 3M, maker of Scotchgard. Spreads can always be treated again to
keep stains at bay. You'll need three cans of Scotchgard to re-treat a standard-size bedspread. (Use the water-based formula.) Some dry cleaners wil treat bedspreads at a cost of $20 and up.
If your spread is custommade, information about the farbic's stain-resistant treatment, if any, is often printed on the fabric edge itself or on teh paper bolt the fabric comes on, says Beth Shupe, an in-home consultant with the Calico Corners store in Scottsdale, Arizona.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the washer, add the bedspread and push it down to submerge. Turn on the washer again, finish filling the drum with water, and complete the cycle.
To dry a spread to the dryer and select the setting appropriate for its fabric type. Add a couple of clean, dry towels, and then give it the Billie Jean King treatment--toss in several clean tennis balls that will knock against the spread to keep its filling from clumping. stop the dryer twice to make sure the spread isn't getting too hot. Shake it out once, too, to make sure batting doesn't jam in one corner.
To fluff up a candlewick bedspread--that durable, still-popular knotted or tufted kind your grandmother probably fancied--try this nifty approach. Wash as described above, then hang it on an outside clothesline in a stiff wind, with the knotted sides facing. The knots will perk up as they rub against one another. Another way to fuff it up: Once your candlewick spread is dry, spread it on a clean floor and sweep with a pristine broom.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Baskets have become a fixture in most homes, whether they're stored in the basement until Eastern rolls around or displayed year round. Either way, their woven construction makes them virtual dust magnets. A few simple cleaning rules can keep you basking in baskets.
To clean an unfinished wicker basket, a gentle vacuum is all that's required, since too much moisture damp cloth.
To Clean a varnished or painted basket, start with a gentle vacuum. Then use a spray bottle filled with water and a tablespoon of vinegar. The spray allows you to penetrate the small areas between the wicker work. Wipe the basket dry with a very soft cloth, such as a baby diaper or baby washcloth, because they're less likely to get caught on rough edges.Use a cotton swab to get to the tight places. Air out the basket in the sun or a dry room, but keep it away from heat sources, which can warp the basket.
To clean most other baskets, use a vacuum cleaner, followed by a mild solution of water and a bit of dishwashing liquid on a soft cloth. Apply a soft brush if needed for problem spots. Avoid any cleaner with phosphates, which can eventually cause the basket to disintegrate.
Bathtubs
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When it comes to spaces that soothe, it's hard to beat the bathtub. But be prepared to take the grit with the glory--maintaining a temple of clean takes regular care.
For everyday care, wipe down the tub after each use with water and a cloth or sponge to keep stubborn soap scum under control. Staying on top of the problem like this
goes a long way, especially considering that most bathtubs today come with dire warnings about the danger of abrasive cleaners. And it's certainly true that if you scrub your way
through the tub's protective finish. you'll soon have stains that are embedded in the tube's material--whether it be fiberglass, procelain, or enamel.
To clean a procelain tub, make your own simple rub-a-dub formula: Prepare a paste made of borax and water, dip a soft scrubber sponge in it, and scrub away. To polish stainless steel parts of fixtures, gently rub with, baking soda on a damp sponge. Rinse well with water.
To remove rust stains, use an orange oil-based cleaner, such as Touch of Oranges. When the bathtub is dry, apply a small amount to a soft scrubber sponge and rub in a circular motion. The rust stains lift right off. Rinse with water and repeat if necessary.
To remove blue-green stains--caused by water with a high copper content---make up a paste: Combine equal amounts of cream of tartar and baking soda (usually a tablespoon of each is enough) and add some lemon juice drop by drop until you have a paste. Rub it into the stain with your fingers or a soft cloth. Leave it for half an hour and rinse well with water. Repeat if necessary.
Cleaning fiberglass tubs can be difficult because mild cleaners have little impact on a seriously soiled unit and abrasive cleaners applied with too much scrubbing pressure will quickly dull the finish.
For everyday cleaning, spray on a household cleaner or tub-and-tile cleaner and wipe with a nonabrasive sponge. If it reaches the point that you have to bring out the big guns, use a powdered cleaner, such as Comet, and a light-duty scrubbing sponge. Be sure to rinse well with water so that the chemicals wan't stay on the surface.
Now that you've finished your tub, you're ready to sit back and enjoy a little splendor in the bath.
Beadwork
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ancient craft of beading has taken on a new life in recent years, and the baubles are showing up on everything from vases to blue jeans to picture frames. Some beads are remarkably durable, others quite fragile. So when your beads need a little brightening, follow the doctor's credo: First, do no harm.
Beadwork on casual clothing has become a fashion staple and can be cleaned at home more readily than the fine breading on formal wear, which is best left to professionals. Beads used on jeans and casual wear are typically made of plastic and can usually be put in the washer with mild detergent on the gentle cycle. Still it's important to double-check the manufacturer's cleaning instructions on the label.
Simple Solutions
Glued-on Beads >
Glass beads on a vase or picture frame or ornament can be cleaned with glass cleaner, but remember to spray the cleaner on the cloth instead of directly on the item. Then wipe and air-dry. Harsh solvents
can loosen the glue that keeps the beads in place.
Loose glass beads are the easiest to deal with. Wash them in a bowl of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid. If the beads are textured, use a soft toothbrush to loosen grime in crevices. Then rinse thoroughly with water
and towel dry.
 |
| Brush on Beads |
Strung beads are more vulnerable than loose beads, because the thread that holds them all together needs special consideration. Wash a beaded necklace or bracelet in the same solution of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid in a bowl, but don't let the beads soak. Rinse them with water immediately after cleaning, pat dry with a towel, and leave them lying flat --not hanging which can stretch the thread--until the thread has had time to dry completely. Or use a soft toothbrush that has been dipped in a bowl of dry baking soda and brush the beads gently. Then rub them with a soft cloth.
Vintage beads require even more caution. Instead of submerging them in soapy water, wipe them gently with a damp cloth dipped in a solution of 1 part vinegar to 4 parts water and air-dry.
Beams
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Exposed beams look good and lend a spacious feel to any room--but it's beauty at a price. Mostly found in cathedral ceilings, beams tower above a conventional ceiling, and reaching those lofty heights is usually the biggest challenge.
To dust beams, get out your vacuum cleaner and its extension wand, snap on the brush attachment, and get ready for some Michelangelo-like neck stretches. Or you can attach a lint roller replacement tube to a paint roller and run it across the exposed surfaces. You may need a stepladder to reach the higher parts of a cathedral ceiling.
If the beams are really dusty and dirty, you'll need to wash them, which requires using an extension ladder. For wood covered with a urethane finish, mix a mild detergent with water, then wipe and rinse a small section at a time using washcloths or, for harder-to-reach areas, a sponge mop.Go easy with the water solution--you want to wipe the beams, not drown them. That's especially true when they're unfinished. For those beams, follow the same steps as for finished beams, but omit the detergent and clean only with water.
Bedspreads
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Laundering a bedspread, particularly if it's large or lofty with batting, can be difficult to do at home. Most home washers and dryers just aren't big enough to accommodate them. So you might want
to take your bedspread out for a little drive--to the neighborhood self-service laundry, where washers and dryers are bigger than most home varieties. Before washing a spread, check the care label to make sure it is washable. Pretreat heavily soiled areas with a prewash product, such as Shout. Set the washer on the highest water level, delicate agitation, and normal spin. Add detergent and partially fill the washer's tub with warm water. Stop
An Ounce of Stain Prevention
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whenever you buy a new bedspread or have one custom made, keep track of fabric care instructions. Many bedspreads today are sewn from fabric coated with Teflon, Scotchgard, or other stain repellents. These coatings wear off with repeated washings or dry cleanings, says Gina Crill,
keep stains at bay. You'll need three cans of Scotchgard to re-treat a standard-size bedspread. (Use the water-based formula.) Some dry cleaners wil treat bedspreads at a cost of $20 and up.
If your spread is custommade, information about the farbic's stain-resistant treatment, if any, is often printed on the fabric edge itself or on teh paper bolt the fabric comes on, says Beth Shupe, an in-home consultant with the Calico Corners store in Scottsdale, Arizona.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the washer, add the bedspread and push it down to submerge. Turn on the washer again, finish filling the drum with water, and complete the cycle.
To dry a spread to the dryer and select the setting appropriate for its fabric type. Add a couple of clean, dry towels, and then give it the Billie Jean King treatment--toss in several clean tennis balls that will knock against the spread to keep its filling from clumping. stop the dryer twice to make sure the spread isn't getting too hot. Shake it out once, too, to make sure batting doesn't jam in one corner.
To fluff up a candlewick bedspread--that durable, still-popular knotted or tufted kind your grandmother probably fancied--try this nifty approach. Wash as described above, then hang it on an outside clothesline in a stiff wind, with the knotted sides facing. The knots will perk up as they rub against one another. Another way to fuff it up: Once your candlewick spread is dry, spread it on a clean floor and sweep with a pristine broom.
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