Can Openers
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Poisoned by your can opener? Don't laugh it; it can happen. When you consider the mixture of chicken soup, tuna fish, dog food, and other remains of the day (or week, or month) on the blades, a can opener's potential toxicity isn't surprising. The juices left on the blades have been shown to harbor the bacteria that cause food poisoning, skin infections, pneumonia, and other maladies. To avoid trouble, make it a habit to wash the blades after each use.
Cleaning a handheld can opener is a snap, Just wash it with the dishes, either by hand or in a dishwasher.
Cleaning an electric can opener is also simple, because most have blades or cutting assembles designed to be removed and washed with the dishes. Older models may not have detachable blades.
In that case, clean the cutting parts, being careful not to cut yourself, with a cloth dampened with water and a little dishwashing detergent. If you're dealing with accumulated black gunk,
scrub it with an old toothbrush. Regular cleaning thereafter will keep the machine clean. To clean the machine's body, wipe it with a damp cloth with the unit unplugged. Never immerse an electric
can opener in water.
Candlesticks and Candelabra
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The easiest way to clean wax from candlesticks is to wipe the wax off while the drips are still warm and soft. But this may seem overly fastidious in the midst of a dinner party.
To remove hardened wax, try this general-purpose method: First, remove all you can with your fingers or with assistance from a soft wooden stick, such as Popsicle stick. You can also use a hair
dyrer or warm water to soften the wax as you work. Never use a knife or other metal object. When you've removed all you can, clean the waxy residue with mineral spirits, available at hardware and paint stores (see Watch Out sidebar). Dab it onto a soft cloth and rub the waxy spots until they're gone. Then polish the candlesticks with panty hose and finish according to the directions for the material the candlesticks are made of. (see entries for Copper, Brass, Silver, and other materials.)
Don't put it in the fridge. One recommendation that's been around of years is to remove hardened wax by first putting candlestick in the freezer. The cold will make the wax brittle and easier to remove by breaking it off. However, experts advice against this treatment because freezing could actually break your candlesticks. Some are made from two or more kinds of metal, which could expand and contract at different rates.
But the candles thdemselves are a different story. If you stash candles in cold storage for a couple of hours before using them, they'll burn more slowly and with less dripping. That'll mean less mess to clean up.
Caning
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Used on antique and contemporary chairs, footstools, and other small furniture pieces, caning is made of woven bamboo or reeds. Historically, it was often intended to support cushions, which also helped protect it. Cushioning is still a good idea.
To clean caning, use the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner regularly to suck out loose dirt, or dust it with a brush, such as a paintbrush. To wash dirtier caning, use a little mild detergent in water applied with a sponge, cloth, or medium-stiff brush. Rinse with clear water and dry with a towel or soft cloth. Don't use harsh detergents or cleaners.
To prevent stains on caning, clean up any spills promptly with a wet cloth or soap and water. A stain may be impossible to remove. If you do get a stain, your best bet is to follow the lead of many old-timers and paint the cane.
To fix a sagging came seat, provided the material isn't broken, wet the seat thoroughly from underneath with a sponge. The underside is more porous than the top and will absorb better. Then let the caning dry in the sun.
WATCH OUT
when cleaning a candle holder, remember that mineral spirits isn't suitable for painted or gilded surfaces--it might remove the finish. It could also destroy the lacquer that covers some metals. Do a test first on an inconspicuous area, such as inside the candle holder itself.
Carpeting
For routine carpet cleaning, carpet people say there are three things to consider; vacuum cleaner, vacuum cleaner, vacuum cleaner. Vacuuming removes about 85 percent of carpet dirt. To get down to the deep dirt, you need to periodically give your carpeting a more thorough cleaning than a vacuum cleaner can provide. How often depends on your lifestyle, but the recommended range is every six to 18 months.
Vacuuming your carpeting every day would be ideal. But we don't live like people in 1950's TV commercials, where women seemed to spend most of their days doing housework--in high heels, no
less. Let's face it: Daily vacuuming is unrealistic for most households today. But do make it a point to vacuum carpeting at least once a week, even if it doesn't appear dirty. Heavily trafficked areas should be hit a little more often. And be sure to vacuum up promptly any obvious soiling before it gets ground in.
For vacuuming your carpet, the more powerful your machine is, the better. You can use either an upright vacuum, which was created with carpets in mind, or a canister vacuum with a power nozzle, which does almost as good a job as an upright. Both of these have a rotary brush, designed to loosen the dirt in carpets.
Here are some tips:
What's your carpet Made of?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Poisoned by your can opener? Don't laugh it; it can happen. When you consider the mixture of chicken soup, tuna fish, dog food, and other remains of the day (or week, or month) on the blades, a can opener's potential toxicity isn't surprising. The juices left on the blades have been shown to harbor the bacteria that cause food poisoning, skin infections, pneumonia, and other maladies. To avoid trouble, make it a habit to wash the blades after each use.
Cleaning a handheld can opener is a snap, Just wash it with the dishes, either by hand or in a dishwasher.
Cleaning an electric can opener is also simple, because most have blades or cutting assembles designed to be removed and washed with the dishes. Older models may not have detachable blades.
In that case, clean the cutting parts, being careful not to cut yourself, with a cloth dampened with water and a little dishwashing detergent. If you're dealing with accumulated black gunk,
scrub it with an old toothbrush. Regular cleaning thereafter will keep the machine clean. To clean the machine's body, wipe it with a damp cloth with the unit unplugged. Never immerse an electric
can opener in water.
Candlesticks and Candelabra
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The easiest way to clean wax from candlesticks is to wipe the wax off while the drips are still warm and soft. But this may seem overly fastidious in the midst of a dinner party.
To remove hardened wax, try this general-purpose method: First, remove all you can with your fingers or with assistance from a soft wooden stick, such as Popsicle stick. You can also use a hair
dyrer or warm water to soften the wax as you work. Never use a knife or other metal object. When you've removed all you can, clean the waxy residue with mineral spirits, available at hardware and paint stores (see Watch Out sidebar). Dab it onto a soft cloth and rub the waxy spots until they're gone. Then polish the candlesticks with panty hose and finish according to the directions for the material the candlesticks are made of. (see entries for Copper, Brass, Silver, and other materials.)
Don't put it in the fridge. One recommendation that's been around of years is to remove hardened wax by first putting candlestick in the freezer. The cold will make the wax brittle and easier to remove by breaking it off. However, experts advice against this treatment because freezing could actually break your candlesticks. Some are made from two or more kinds of metal, which could expand and contract at different rates.
But the candles thdemselves are a different story. If you stash candles in cold storage for a couple of hours before using them, they'll burn more slowly and with less dripping. That'll mean less mess to clean up.
Caning
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Used on antique and contemporary chairs, footstools, and other small furniture pieces, caning is made of woven bamboo or reeds. Historically, it was often intended to support cushions, which also helped protect it. Cushioning is still a good idea.
To clean caning, use the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner regularly to suck out loose dirt, or dust it with a brush, such as a paintbrush. To wash dirtier caning, use a little mild detergent in water applied with a sponge, cloth, or medium-stiff brush. Rinse with clear water and dry with a towel or soft cloth. Don't use harsh detergents or cleaners.
To prevent stains on caning, clean up any spills promptly with a wet cloth or soap and water. A stain may be impossible to remove. If you do get a stain, your best bet is to follow the lead of many old-timers and paint the cane.
To fix a sagging came seat, provided the material isn't broken, wet the seat thoroughly from underneath with a sponge. The underside is more porous than the top and will absorb better. Then let the caning dry in the sun.
WATCH OUT
when cleaning a candle holder, remember that mineral spirits isn't suitable for painted or gilded surfaces--it might remove the finish. It could also destroy the lacquer that covers some metals. Do a test first on an inconspicuous area, such as inside the candle holder itself.
Carpeting
For routine carpet cleaning, carpet people say there are three things to consider; vacuum cleaner, vacuum cleaner, vacuum cleaner. Vacuuming removes about 85 percent of carpet dirt. To get down to the deep dirt, you need to periodically give your carpeting a more thorough cleaning than a vacuum cleaner can provide. How often depends on your lifestyle, but the recommended range is every six to 18 months.
Vacuuming your carpeting every day would be ideal. But we don't live like people in 1950's TV commercials, where women seemed to spend most of their days doing housework--in high heels, no
less. Let's face it: Daily vacuuming is unrealistic for most households today. But do make it a point to vacuum carpeting at least once a week, even if it doesn't appear dirty. Heavily trafficked areas should be hit a little more often. And be sure to vacuum up promptly any obvious soiling before it gets ground in.
For vacuuming your carpet, the more powerful your machine is, the better. You can use either an upright vacuum, which was created with carpets in mind, or a canister vacuum with a power nozzle, which does almost as good a job as an upright. Both of these have a rotary brush, designed to loosen the dirt in carpets.
Here are some tips:
- Set your vacuum cleaner for the pile level of the carpet--unless your vacuum automatically adjusts to the pile level.
- When you vacuum an area, use slow, even strokes and go back and forth several times, flipping the nap by going alternatively.
What's your carpet Made of?
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How your carpeting responds to dirt and your efforts to eradicate it depends on the material--of the carpet and of the dirt. Unfortunately, most people have no clue about the materials their carpets are made of, unless the carpet is wool. Wool is the most expensive, and shoppers who choose wool want that material in particular. Shoppers choose other fibers mainly because of the appearance and price of the carpeting, not because of what they want from the fiber.
If you're serious about owning high-quality carpeting and keeping it clean, know your fibers and consider fiber when buying. There are two basic categories: natural and synthetic.
Synthetic fibers include nylon, blends of those materials, and "pop-bottle carpet,' made from recycled plastic bottles (polyethylene terepthalate [PET],if you really want to know).
How your carpeting responds to dirt and your efforts to eradicate it depends on the material--of the carpet and of the dirt. Unfortunately, most people have no clue about the materials their carpets are made of, unless the carpet is wool. Wool is the most expensive, and shoppers who choose wool want that material in particular. Shoppers choose other fibers mainly because of the appearance and price of the carpeting, not because of what they want from the fiber.
If you're serious about owning high-quality carpeting and keeping it clean, know your fibers and consider fiber when buying. There are two basic categories: natural and synthetic.
Synthetic fibers include nylon, blends of those materials, and "pop-bottle carpet,' made from recycled plastic bottles (polyethylene terepthalate [PET],if you really want to know).
- Nylon is the best of the synthetic materials. It is the toughest, and it resists soil and stains quite well. If the fibers get compressed by a heavy object sitting on them, they can be revived with steam.
- Olefin is cheaper and is also quite stain resistant. It is the only carpet material that can sometimes accept bleach. Its chief advantage: The fibers crush easily.
- Acrylic is also relatively inexpensive in some ways. But it is not as strong and is unsuitable for high-traffic areas. And it is susceptible to pilling and fuzzing.
- Blends have characteristics of their components, but since those components react differently to stains, removing stains may be more difficult.
- Recycled-bottle carpet resembles nylon and olefin and has similar stain-resistant properties.
Natural fibers include wool, sisal, hemp, jute, and seagrass.
- Wool is durable, naturally resistant to stains and dirt, and more expensive than synthetics.
- Sisal, hemp, jute and seagrass are all made from plants, and they come in a wide variety of weaves and prices. Plant-based materials are more likely to be found in area rugs than in wall-to-wall carpeting. These carpets will not stand up to shampooing or steam cleaning. Use as little liquid as possible when treating stains.
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against and with the grain. Finish with strokes that all go in the same direction.
against and with the grain. Finish with strokes that all go in the same direction.
- Vacuum under furniture as best you can with extension attachments. About twice a year, move the furniture and vacuum the area under it thoroughly.
- With a rug, it's a good idea to occasionally turn it over and vacuum the underside.
- If your vacuum cleaner won't suck up cat hairs, threads, or other fine ite,s, use a lint roller or a piece of doubled-over tape to pick them up.
- New carpeting produces a lot of extra fluff. It's normal--nothing to worry about.
Profesional steam cleaning is the ideal way of removing deep down dirt from your carpet. There are several types of professional carpet. There are several types of professional carpet-cleaning methods, but the Cadillac of them all is hot water extraction, or steam cleaning, done using a truck-mounted unit.
If you call in the pros, make sure that's really what you're getting. There are plenty of glorified do-it-yourselfers pretending to be professionals. If you follow the suggestions in the "How To Choose a Pro" box on the following page, you won't get any surprises when they show up at the door. They'll swoop in with a big truck's purpose isn't to impress you, but to hold powerful euqipment. One piece is a heating unit that keeps the water vey hot throughout the cleaning process. Another is a very powerful vacuum, which will suck up all the water that the cleaner puts down.
RULES OF THE GAME
What would Hippocrates Do? >
When confronted with a spill on your carpet, remember Hippocrate's famous commandment to physicians: First, do no harm.
If your first instinct is to grab a sponge and rub the spot, curb it. Rubbing will only grind the spill more deeply into the fibers.
If you call in the pros, make sure that's really what you're getting. There are plenty of glorified do-it-yourselfers pretending to be professionals. If you follow the suggestions in the "How To Choose a Pro" box on the following page, you won't get any surprises when they show up at the door. They'll swoop in with a big truck's purpose isn't to impress you, but to hold powerful euqipment. One piece is a heating unit that keeps the water vey hot throughout the cleaning process. Another is a very powerful vacuum, which will suck up all the water that the cleaner puts down.
RULES OF THE GAME
What would Hippocrates Do? >
When confronted with a spill on your carpet, remember Hippocrate's famous commandment to physicians: First, do no harm.
If your first instinct is to grab a sponge and rub the spot, curb it. Rubbing will only grind the spill more deeply into the fibers.
While treatment of spills will vary with the carpet material and the substance, spilled, here are a few principles that apply to all:
- Scoop up any solids and use something absorbent to soak up any liquid that hasn't sunk in yet.
- After you've absorbent everything you can, blot the spot with white towels or rags. Work from the outside in so you won't spread the stain.
- When you've blotted up all you can, use water to dilute what remains, and continue to blot.
- If that doesn't complete the job, proceed to a low-tech cleaner. If that doesn't work, call in the professionals. Many amateurs do harm by using harsh, ineffective cleaners.
If you steam clean carpeting yourself, the results won't be as good as a professional job. But let's say you just don't want to spring for the professional job. Maybe your carpet is old and you're going to replace it in a couple of years, but in the meantime you want to perk it up with a do-it-yourself steam-cleaning job. In that case, the most economical solution is to rent the most powerful steam-cleaning machine you can find. At the same time, rent a shop vacuum that will suck up water as well as solids. Follow the directions on the cleaning machine, and change the water often. At the end, go over the carpeting with the shop vacuum and draw out as much additional water as you can. Get as much air circulation as possible in the room, and don't walk ont eh carpet until it's dry.
If using a rental unit persuades you that do-it-yourself cleaning is the way to go, and expense is no barrier, explore owning your
If using a rental unit persuades you that do-it-yourself cleaning is the way to go, and expense is no barrier, explore owning your
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