Attics
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Neglect your attic, and you could have a dust and mold factory hanging over your head. Give it a good cleaning once a year, and you'll not only remove a source of these irritants from your home, but you'll also have a valuable storage space that you won't dread going into now and then
Conquering Attic Mold
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Mold in the attic is a sign that you have a moisture problem--maybe a leaky roof, maybe poor ventilation. To get rid of the mold, first cut off the source of moisture that's keeping it so happy. Get the leak fixed, or improve, the airflow so that the attic stays dry. There should be soffit holes where the roof meets the floor and overhangs the walls of the house. Having a ridge vent system--a
continuous vent along the peak of the roof--installed would make the airflow even better. Consider having one installed when you reroof.
When the leak or airflow problem has been fixed, it's time to clean up the mold. First, vacuum up what you can from the affected areas. Then wearing a respirator, use a stiff brush to loosen any moldthat remains, and vacuum again. Finally, paint over the affected areas with a mold-inibiting paint. And go tell your friends you've broken the mold!
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Before you start--especially if it's been several years since you even went into your attic--you should gear up to protect yourself. A disposable respirator is inexpensive and will protect your lungs from dust, spores, dander, and other nuisances. You may need an apron to protect your clothes, goggles to protect your eyes, and rubber gloves for your hands (latex gloves or something more heavy-duty, depending on the extent of the job). If your attic is already used for storage, make sure everything's organized before you attempt cleaning. This means storing small items in labeled boxes, grouping together boxes that contain like items, and opening up walk ways so that you can get to any box in any part of the room.
To actually clean the attic, fire up the vacuum cleaner and start sucking up dust from the top down--ceiling, beams, walls, and floor. (Wearing the disposable respirator is a good idea in any event, but if you're going the dustpan-and-broom route, it's essential.) If your attic already has things stored in it, don't just clean around the boxes--clean under them, too. Once the major grime has been vanquished, you;re ready to give the area a light once-over with a damp cleaning cloth dipped in a solution of water and mild dishwashing liquid.
Awings and Canopies
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A grungy awning or canopy can mar your house's curb appeal, which is how real estate brokers refer to the impression your house makes on passerby. Even if you're not selling, Curb appeal is important. And even if your canopy is not visible from the road, keeping it clean will help it last longer.
Cleaning acrylic awnings is usually a breeze because most have a soil- and stain-resistant finish. Where necessary, use a stepladder to reach the awnings. Spot-wash by applying a solution of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid with a sponge. Rinse, throroughly with clean water and air-dry. For stubborn stains, use a fabric stain remover, following the directions on the container. Again, rinse well and air-dry.
Mildew on an acrylic awning is usually found not on the fabric itself but on dirt, leaves, and other materials that are not removed from the fabric. Acrylic awnings themselves don't promote the growth of mildew. To remove mildew, mix 1 cup of bleach with a squirt of mild dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of warm water. Apply to the entire area and allow it to soak in (but not to dry). Scrub with a sponge. Rinse thoroughly and air-dry. Don't use bleach on logos or prints on the awning.
Cleaning vinyl or fabric awnings is usually done with commercial cleaners that work best if you don't wet the awning before cleaning it. On a stepladder, if necessary, use a garden sprayer to apply vinyl and fabric cleaner (such as SkyClean 2 in 1 Vinyl Cleaner & Protectant) evenly in a saturating mist. Start from the bottom of the awning and work up. Before the cleaner dries, scrub the awning with a sponge or soft- to medium-bristled brush. (Brushes work best on fabric awnings.) Never use abrasive cleaners or scrubbers. Rinse by spraying with a garden hose until the runoff water is clear. You'll want to remove all the cleaner, because left over cleaner will leave a chalky film once it dries. Don't use a pressure washer to clean your awning. It's ineffective and can cause permanent damage.
Mildew on a vinyl or fabric awning can be removed using a solution of 1 cup of bleach per 1 gallon of warm water. Before using the solution, however, test it by rubbing a solution-soaked cotton swab on a hidden section of awning to make sure it does not cause the colors to fade or run. Don't let the bleach solution dry on the awning. Rinse completely with water.
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Neglect your attic, and you could have a dust and mold factory hanging over your head. Give it a good cleaning once a year, and you'll not only remove a source of these irritants from your home, but you'll also have a valuable storage space that you won't dread going into now and then
Conquering Attic Mold
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mold in the attic is a sign that you have a moisture problem--maybe a leaky roof, maybe poor ventilation. To get rid of the mold, first cut off the source of moisture that's keeping it so happy. Get the leak fixed, or improve, the airflow so that the attic stays dry. There should be soffit holes where the roof meets the floor and overhangs the walls of the house. Having a ridge vent system--a
continuous vent along the peak of the roof--installed would make the airflow even better. Consider having one installed when you reroof.
When the leak or airflow problem has been fixed, it's time to clean up the mold. First, vacuum up what you can from the affected areas. Then wearing a respirator, use a stiff brush to loosen any moldthat remains, and vacuum again. Finally, paint over the affected areas with a mold-inibiting paint. And go tell your friends you've broken the mold!
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Before you start--especially if it's been several years since you even went into your attic--you should gear up to protect yourself. A disposable respirator is inexpensive and will protect your lungs from dust, spores, dander, and other nuisances. You may need an apron to protect your clothes, goggles to protect your eyes, and rubber gloves for your hands (latex gloves or something more heavy-duty, depending on the extent of the job). If your attic is already used for storage, make sure everything's organized before you attempt cleaning. This means storing small items in labeled boxes, grouping together boxes that contain like items, and opening up walk ways so that you can get to any box in any part of the room.
To actually clean the attic, fire up the vacuum cleaner and start sucking up dust from the top down--ceiling, beams, walls, and floor. (Wearing the disposable respirator is a good idea in any event, but if you're going the dustpan-and-broom route, it's essential.) If your attic already has things stored in it, don't just clean around the boxes--clean under them, too. Once the major grime has been vanquished, you;re ready to give the area a light once-over with a damp cleaning cloth dipped in a solution of water and mild dishwashing liquid.
Awings and Canopies
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A grungy awning or canopy can mar your house's curb appeal, which is how real estate brokers refer to the impression your house makes on passerby. Even if you're not selling, Curb appeal is important. And even if your canopy is not visible from the road, keeping it clean will help it last longer.
Cleaning acrylic awnings is usually a breeze because most have a soil- and stain-resistant finish. Where necessary, use a stepladder to reach the awnings. Spot-wash by applying a solution of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid with a sponge. Rinse, throroughly with clean water and air-dry. For stubborn stains, use a fabric stain remover, following the directions on the container. Again, rinse well and air-dry.
Mildew on an acrylic awning is usually found not on the fabric itself but on dirt, leaves, and other materials that are not removed from the fabric. Acrylic awnings themselves don't promote the growth of mildew. To remove mildew, mix 1 cup of bleach with a squirt of mild dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of warm water. Apply to the entire area and allow it to soak in (but not to dry). Scrub with a sponge. Rinse thoroughly and air-dry. Don't use bleach on logos or prints on the awning.
Cleaning vinyl or fabric awnings is usually done with commercial cleaners that work best if you don't wet the awning before cleaning it. On a stepladder, if necessary, use a garden sprayer to apply vinyl and fabric cleaner (such as SkyClean 2 in 1 Vinyl Cleaner & Protectant) evenly in a saturating mist. Start from the bottom of the awning and work up. Before the cleaner dries, scrub the awning with a sponge or soft- to medium-bristled brush. (Brushes work best on fabric awnings.) Never use abrasive cleaners or scrubbers. Rinse by spraying with a garden hose until the runoff water is clear. You'll want to remove all the cleaner, because left over cleaner will leave a chalky film once it dries. Don't use a pressure washer to clean your awning. It's ineffective and can cause permanent damage.
Mildew on a vinyl or fabric awning can be removed using a solution of 1 cup of bleach per 1 gallon of warm water. Before using the solution, however, test it by rubbing a solution-soaked cotton swab on a hidden section of awning to make sure it does not cause the colors to fade or run. Don't let the bleach solution dry on the awning. Rinse completely with water.
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