Ventilation Systems:
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Vacuum your house often and use a high-efficiency HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner. The more often you vacuum. the less potential dust there will be to get into your ventilation system. The HEPA system keeps the machine from sucking up dust and blowing it back into the air. As a part of your va-
cuuming routine, be sure to vacuum your ventilation system's vents. (See Vents below.)
Control Moisture--the essential ingredient for biological growth--by repairing any leaks or water damage in your system. Make sure the ducts are properly sealed and insulated in non-air conditioned spaces, such as attics and crawl spaces. This will prevent moisture from condensing inside the system.
If your duct-work does need cleaning, hire a reputable professional. This is one of those jobs that is impossible without the right equipment and know-how. The pros typically hook the entire duct system up to a high-powered vacuum and then use special tools to snake around the ducts loosening dust and debris. It can be expensive, so take your time in choosing the right contractor.
Vents
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An important part of your ventilation system are the vents--registers, returns--at the end of the duct-work. Located in floors,walls, and ceilings, vents typically have angled louvers to keep large debris from getting into the screen. These louvers, however also collect lint and dust. Fortunately, they are easy to access. In fact, vents are the only part of household ventilation systems that most homeowners are able to---and should---clean on a regular basis.
Vacuum the outside of the vent often, make it part of your regular vacuuming routine, and you'll cut down on dust lint buildup considerably. Use a brush attachment, which helps loosen dust.
At least twice a year, remove registers and return and clean both sides of them. Try cleaning system with the vacuum. If that does not completely remove the dust, wipe them with a moist dust cloth.
If you replace filters behind your returns more often than twice a year, clean the return vents every time you remove them.
Vinyl
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"Vinyl is final," the saying goes, meaning no more painting for a vinyl-sided house. But painting is only part of maintenance, and siding is just one of thousands of uses of vinyl.
To wash vinyl siding, use a garden hose attached to a long-handled car brush attachment (the Deluxe Car Wash Brush by parts Master, for instance) and water. Such brushes are available at hardware, discount, and auto supply stores. If the siding is especially dirty, use the car brush to apply a cleaner consisting of 1/2 cup of powdered laundry detergent, 2/3 cup of trisodium phosphate (available at hardware and paint stores), and 1 gallon of water. If mildew is a problem, substitute 1 quart of chlorine bleach for 1 quart of the water. Strain the cleaner through an old sock to remove any lumps.
Apply the cleaner with the brush (you can detach it from the hose for this part, if you want), working from the bottom up. Allow the cleaner to sit for a few minutes. Rinse with clear water from the top down before the detergent solution dries (unless you like the streaky look on your siding). Vinyl siding should be washed every 12 to 18 months, depending on the climate and presence of air pollutants.
WATCH OUT
When cleaning vinyl, avoid harsh solvents and cleaners. They may cause the vinyl to become brittle.
To clean siding more thoroughly, use a pressure washer rated about 2,500 pounds per square inch (psi). Cover any electrical outlets and wear safety goggles. Move methodically from side to side from the bottom up, reversing direction for the rinse cycle. To clean aluminum siding, see Aluminum.
To clean articles made of vinyl, here are several cleaners to try:
To keep vinyl soft and pliable, rub a little petroleum jelly into the surface and then buff with a soft cloth. Or use a vinyl cleaner/conditioner, which you can buy at hardware and auto supply stores.
Vomit
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Cleaning up vomit is a job no one relishes, but few can avoid the task forever. Certainly not patients and pet owners.
On a flower or other hard surface, dump clean kitty litter onto fresh vomit. It will absorb most of it and can then be swept up. Follow by wiping with a damp sponge or cloth. If you don't have any litter
use baking soda or cornstarch.
If the vomit is old on a hard surface, scrape off as much as possible with a putty knife, kitchen knife, or spatula. Wash the surface with a little undiluted dish-washing liquid applied to a sponge or cloth.
Then rinse and dry. If the vomit's acid ate away wax or an underlying finish, renew it with a spot application.
To clean vomit from a carpet or upholstery, lift off any solids with paper towels and then sponge with cool water. Follow by saturating the spot with plenty of baking soda, which will absorb the liquid, neutralize the acid, and wipe out the odor. Allow the soda to dry. Then vacuum. Sponge the stain with a solution of 1 teaspoon of dish-washing liquid in 1 cup of cool water. Rinse and blot dry.
To clean clothing, bedding, or table linens, flush fresh messes with cold water. Hold the item under the faucet with the soiled side down. Don't use hot water---it will cook the protein and make it harder to remove. For dried vomit, scrape off any solids and then soak in cold water, using an enzyme presoak, for several hours. For both new and old stains, follow by rubbing a little undiluted liquid laundry detergent into the stain and washing in warm water with detergent. If any stain remains, soak again in the enzyme, or use chlorine bleach on white fabrics or oxygen bleach on colored ones. If possible, dry on a clothesline rather than in a dryer.
See also Pet Cleanup.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Vacuum your house often and use a high-efficiency HEPA-filtered vacuum cleaner. The more often you vacuum. the less potential dust there will be to get into your ventilation system. The HEPA system keeps the machine from sucking up dust and blowing it back into the air. As a part of your va-
cuuming routine, be sure to vacuum your ventilation system's vents. (See Vents below.)
Control Moisture--the essential ingredient for biological growth--by repairing any leaks or water damage in your system. Make sure the ducts are properly sealed and insulated in non-air conditioned spaces, such as attics and crawl spaces. This will prevent moisture from condensing inside the system.
If your duct-work does need cleaning, hire a reputable professional. This is one of those jobs that is impossible without the right equipment and know-how. The pros typically hook the entire duct system up to a high-powered vacuum and then use special tools to snake around the ducts loosening dust and debris. It can be expensive, so take your time in choosing the right contractor.
Vents
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
An important part of your ventilation system are the vents--registers, returns--at the end of the duct-work. Located in floors,walls, and ceilings, vents typically have angled louvers to keep large debris from getting into the screen. These louvers, however also collect lint and dust. Fortunately, they are easy to access. In fact, vents are the only part of household ventilation systems that most homeowners are able to---and should---clean on a regular basis.
Vacuum the outside of the vent often, make it part of your regular vacuuming routine, and you'll cut down on dust lint buildup considerably. Use a brush attachment, which helps loosen dust.
At least twice a year, remove registers and return and clean both sides of them. Try cleaning system with the vacuum. If that does not completely remove the dust, wipe them with a moist dust cloth.
If you replace filters behind your returns more often than twice a year, clean the return vents every time you remove them.
Vinyl
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Vinyl is final," the saying goes, meaning no more painting for a vinyl-sided house. But painting is only part of maintenance, and siding is just one of thousands of uses of vinyl.
To wash vinyl siding, use a garden hose attached to a long-handled car brush attachment (the Deluxe Car Wash Brush by parts Master, for instance) and water. Such brushes are available at hardware, discount, and auto supply stores. If the siding is especially dirty, use the car brush to apply a cleaner consisting of 1/2 cup of powdered laundry detergent, 2/3 cup of trisodium phosphate (available at hardware and paint stores), and 1 gallon of water. If mildew is a problem, substitute 1 quart of chlorine bleach for 1 quart of the water. Strain the cleaner through an old sock to remove any lumps.
Apply the cleaner with the brush (you can detach it from the hose for this part, if you want), working from the bottom up. Allow the cleaner to sit for a few minutes. Rinse with clear water from the top down before the detergent solution dries (unless you like the streaky look on your siding). Vinyl siding should be washed every 12 to 18 months, depending on the climate and presence of air pollutants.
WATCH OUT
When cleaning vinyl, avoid harsh solvents and cleaners. They may cause the vinyl to become brittle.
To clean siding more thoroughly, use a pressure washer rated about 2,500 pounds per square inch (psi). Cover any electrical outlets and wear safety goggles. Move methodically from side to side from the bottom up, reversing direction for the rinse cycle. To clean aluminum siding, see Aluminum.
To clean articles made of vinyl, here are several cleaners to try:
- A little liquid dish-washing detergent in warm water
- A solution of 1 gallon of water and 2 tablespoons of borax, available in the detergent section of supermarkets
- Mild cleaners such as Murphy Oil Soap or Simple Green
- For mold and mildew, a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts water
To keep vinyl soft and pliable, rub a little petroleum jelly into the surface and then buff with a soft cloth. Or use a vinyl cleaner/conditioner, which you can buy at hardware and auto supply stores.
Vomit
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cleaning up vomit is a job no one relishes, but few can avoid the task forever. Certainly not patients and pet owners.
On a flower or other hard surface, dump clean kitty litter onto fresh vomit. It will absorb most of it and can then be swept up. Follow by wiping with a damp sponge or cloth. If you don't have any litter
use baking soda or cornstarch.
If the vomit is old on a hard surface, scrape off as much as possible with a putty knife, kitchen knife, or spatula. Wash the surface with a little undiluted dish-washing liquid applied to a sponge or cloth.
Then rinse and dry. If the vomit's acid ate away wax or an underlying finish, renew it with a spot application.
To clean vomit from a carpet or upholstery, lift off any solids with paper towels and then sponge with cool water. Follow by saturating the spot with plenty of baking soda, which will absorb the liquid, neutralize the acid, and wipe out the odor. Allow the soda to dry. Then vacuum. Sponge the stain with a solution of 1 teaspoon of dish-washing liquid in 1 cup of cool water. Rinse and blot dry.
To clean clothing, bedding, or table linens, flush fresh messes with cold water. Hold the item under the faucet with the soiled side down. Don't use hot water---it will cook the protein and make it harder to remove. For dried vomit, scrape off any solids and then soak in cold water, using an enzyme presoak, for several hours. For both new and old stains, follow by rubbing a little undiluted liquid laundry detergent into the stain and washing in warm water with detergent. If any stain remains, soak again in the enzyme, or use chlorine bleach on white fabrics or oxygen bleach on colored ones. If possible, dry on a clothesline rather than in a dryer.
See also Pet Cleanup.
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