Sleeping bags:
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Sleeping bags come with one of three steps of insulation: natural (down or down and feather), synthetic fibers, or fiber-pile (there). But whatever type of sleeping bag you have, if you use it only a couple of times a year and treat it well, you might be able to go 10 years without giving it a through cleaning.
To keep a sleeping bag in good shape, here are some guidelines:
Note: See Tomorrow Medical Blog
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Sleeping bags come with one of three steps of insulation: natural (down or down and feather), synthetic fibers, or fiber-pile (there). But whatever type of sleeping bag you have, if you use it only a couple of times a year and treat it well, you might be able to go 10 years without giving it a through cleaning.
To keep a sleeping bag in good shape, here are some guidelines:
- Use a liner or wear paints and a T-shirt when you're using the sleeping bag.
- Spot clean after a trip with a sponge and soapy water
- After a camping trip, air your sleeping bag for a couple of hours or place it in the dryer for 10 to 15 minutes to get rid of any moisture.
- Store your bag in a large breathable storage sack, not in the stuff sack or in a plastic bag.
To hand-wash a sleeping bag--the most careful way to do it--fill a bathtub with warm water and just a little soap. For down bags, select a down liquid soap (available from either a store specializing in down comforters or a camping supplies store). You can also safely use a mild laundry detergent,
such as Woolite or Ivory Snow. Don't use any detergent containing bleach on a down bag (but it's OK for synthetic-fiber bags). Check the package directions to determine the amount of detergent to use. Remember that using too much will mean more rinsing later on. Gently knead the bag to help the soapy water penetrate the material.
If your sleeping bag has a waterproof outer shell, turn the entire bug inside out before you immerse it so the soapy water will be able to penetrate.
Simple SOLUTIONS
The Squeeze Play >
When hand-washing a sleeping bag, try this simple trick to prevent the compartments formed by baffles (those stitched partitions that keep the fill evenly distributed) from inflating and floating to the surface: Keep the bag in its stuff sack and immerse both bag and sack in the tub of water.You've already forced the air out of the bag when you put it in the stuff sack. once both are immersed, you can remove the sleeping bag from the sack and work the soapy water into the bag.
Rinse your bag twice--several times if necessary--with clear water. Don't cut corners on this step, particularly if you're working witha down bag. It's very important to remove all the soap before the down has dried. Do not wring water from your sleeping bag. Instead, squeeze out the water by rolling up the bag tightly and carefully.
To machine-wash a sleeping bag, your best bet is to visit a self service laundry. Using a front-loading machine to wash down or synthetic-fiber sleeping bags is a good idea, because top-loading agitator machines can damage them. You can machine-wash just about sleeping bag if you use warm water and a gentle cycle, buy it's best to check the manufacturer's label. The last spin cycle should remove a lot of the water, but be sure the bag is evenly distributed in the machine. This will save dryer time.
Drying is the key to preserving your sleeping bag. If your bag is not dried thoroughly before you store it away, the mated lumps that formed when it was wet will stay that way. The bag will lose its loft, will no longer offer optimum insulation, and will probably mildew. For these reasons, it's better to dry your bag at a self-service laundry, where you can use a large dryer. In a home dryer, the sleeping bag will take up so much room that it won't tumble well. Consequently the clumps of down or synthetic fibers will not be broken up during drying.
If you decide to wash your sleeping bag at home and then dry it at a self-service laundry. put it in a plastic bag for the trip to the laundry. Use the largest dryer set to high heat. Melting the nylon shell is not a danger because the bag has room to tumble, but if your'e in doubt, use a lower setting. Once a nylon shell is dry, set the dryer on medium heat so that the interior feathers can dry. Toss in a couple of clean tennis balls to help break up clumps of down. Remove the bag as soon as it's finished tumbling.
A note of caution: Even if your bag feels dry, the down insulation may not be. Check for lumps--a sign the down is still wet.
After drying a sleeping bag with fiber-pile insulation, gently fluff up the fleece with a comb or brush.WATCH OUT
Dry cleaning is not recommended for down or synthetic sleeping bags. It can strip the natural oils in the donw and take the silicone coating off the synthetic-filled bags. You probably can dry-clean a fiber-pile sleeping bag, but check the manufacturer's recommendations first.
Slide Projectors and Screens
such as Woolite or Ivory Snow. Don't use any detergent containing bleach on a down bag (but it's OK for synthetic-fiber bags). Check the package directions to determine the amount of detergent to use. Remember that using too much will mean more rinsing later on. Gently knead the bag to help the soapy water penetrate the material.
If your sleeping bag has a waterproof outer shell, turn the entire bug inside out before you immerse it so the soapy water will be able to penetrate.
Simple SOLUTIONS
The Squeeze Play >
When hand-washing a sleeping bag, try this simple trick to prevent the compartments formed by baffles (those stitched partitions that keep the fill evenly distributed) from inflating and floating to the surface: Keep the bag in its stuff sack and immerse both bag and sack in the tub of water.You've already forced the air out of the bag when you put it in the stuff sack. once both are immersed, you can remove the sleeping bag from the sack and work the soapy water into the bag.
Rinse your bag twice--several times if necessary--with clear water. Don't cut corners on this step, particularly if you're working witha down bag. It's very important to remove all the soap before the down has dried. Do not wring water from your sleeping bag. Instead, squeeze out the water by rolling up the bag tightly and carefully.
To machine-wash a sleeping bag, your best bet is to visit a self service laundry. Using a front-loading machine to wash down or synthetic-fiber sleeping bags is a good idea, because top-loading agitator machines can damage them. You can machine-wash just about sleeping bag if you use warm water and a gentle cycle, buy it's best to check the manufacturer's label. The last spin cycle should remove a lot of the water, but be sure the bag is evenly distributed in the machine. This will save dryer time.
Drying is the key to preserving your sleeping bag. If your bag is not dried thoroughly before you store it away, the mated lumps that formed when it was wet will stay that way. The bag will lose its loft, will no longer offer optimum insulation, and will probably mildew. For these reasons, it's better to dry your bag at a self-service laundry, where you can use a large dryer. In a home dryer, the sleeping bag will take up so much room that it won't tumble well. Consequently the clumps of down or synthetic fibers will not be broken up during drying.
If you decide to wash your sleeping bag at home and then dry it at a self-service laundry. put it in a plastic bag for the trip to the laundry. Use the largest dryer set to high heat. Melting the nylon shell is not a danger because the bag has room to tumble, but if your'e in doubt, use a lower setting. Once a nylon shell is dry, set the dryer on medium heat so that the interior feathers can dry. Toss in a couple of clean tennis balls to help break up clumps of down. Remove the bag as soon as it's finished tumbling.
A note of caution: Even if your bag feels dry, the down insulation may not be. Check for lumps--a sign the down is still wet.
After drying a sleeping bag with fiber-pile insulation, gently fluff up the fleece with a comb or brush.WATCH OUT
Dry cleaning is not recommended for down or synthetic sleeping bags. It can strip the natural oils in the donw and take the silicone coating off the synthetic-filled bags. You probably can dry-clean a fiber-pile sleeping bag, but check the manufacturer's recommendations first.
Slide Projectors and Screens
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Cleaning electronic gadgetry is not rocket science. It merely requires know-now (supplied by this book) and patience (supplied by you). If you get into a rush, you may damage your projector.
To clean a slide projector, start the outside of the unit (but only if it is completely cool). Separate and set aside the optical assemblies--the lens, which is easily removable from its track, and the lamps, which slides out the back of the projector.
Use an aerosol can of deionized compressed air to blow any dust or loose dirt off the projector casing. (If it's really dirty, walk outside to spray it, so that you won't have another mess to clean up inside.) Spray any openings inside the casing to loosen dust. With a clean, 1-inch bristle paintbrush (preferably new), dust all the nooks and crannies, making sure to clean around the gate area, which catches the dropping slides, and the exhaust grill, where dirt tends to collect. Once again, blow compressed air on the case to remove any remaining Spray a surface cleaner (either a product such as Windex or a lens cleaner from a camera store) on a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe the exterior surfaces of the projector to remove fingerprints and grime.
To clean the projector's optics---which you removed and set aside--be extra careful not to scratch the lenses. Use the compressed air to first dust the projection lens. Make a couple of drops of surface cleaner on both the front and rear of the lens and, with the lens tissue, rub gently in a circular motion to remove dust or water condensation marks. No matter how tempted you may be--and this goes
for AV geeks as well as the rest of us--don't try to clean the internal lens. The optics are very sensitive parts. Among other things, unskilled fingers can disturb the finely calibrated focussing mechanism. (Every five years or so, have the slide projector serviced by a professional, who can clean and lubricate the internal systems.)
To clean the projector's lamp, set the cleaned projection lens aside and locate the lamp, which is typically next to the exhaust fan and tends to get really dirty. Again, remove dust with the compressed air "rinse". Using the lens tissue and surface cleaner, gently wipe the mirror that accompanies the lamp. There should be a clear condenser lens bracketed in front of the lamp. Unscrew the bracket, gently remove the lens (holding it on the edges only), and clean it as you did the other lenses. Reattach it to the lamp assembly. If the condenser lens is tinted green (as it often is on models made more than a decade ago), take even more care when handling it. Don't touch the lens with bare fingers (handle it with a clean cloth or tissue), and if you must set it down, do so on a clot. This time, don't use the cleaning solution; wipe it very gently with the lens tissue.
After reassembling the projector, turn it on. You may smell a strange odor, generated by the dust disturbed during the cleaning. The smell will stop after the dust has settled. If the unit still smell after 30 minutes, something is probably wrong. call a service center for advice--or a friend who spent his or her youth tinkering with AV equipment.
Cleaning the projection screen is the easy part. Although there are different screen materials, the cleaning techniques are the same for nearly all. Make a solution of mild dish-washing liquid and warm water. Gently wipe away dust and dirt with a sponge dipped in the solution. Rinse by wiping with a clean, wet sponge. Blot dry using a clean cloth. That's it. Never use solvents, such as acetone or paint thinner, and never use abrasive cleaners.
If you have a glass bead screen or a screen with a delicate surface, don't clean it with water and soap. Instead, simply brush away dusting using a soft-bristled brush or a clean, lint-free cloth. Happy viewing.
Cleaning electronic gadgetry is not rocket science. It merely requires know-now (supplied by this book) and patience (supplied by you). If you get into a rush, you may damage your projector.
To clean a slide projector, start the outside of the unit (but only if it is completely cool). Separate and set aside the optical assemblies--the lens, which is easily removable from its track, and the lamps, which slides out the back of the projector.
Use an aerosol can of deionized compressed air to blow any dust or loose dirt off the projector casing. (If it's really dirty, walk outside to spray it, so that you won't have another mess to clean up inside.) Spray any openings inside the casing to loosen dust. With a clean, 1-inch bristle paintbrush (preferably new), dust all the nooks and crannies, making sure to clean around the gate area, which catches the dropping slides, and the exhaust grill, where dirt tends to collect. Once again, blow compressed air on the case to remove any remaining Spray a surface cleaner (either a product such as Windex or a lens cleaner from a camera store) on a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe the exterior surfaces of the projector to remove fingerprints and grime.
To clean the projector's optics---which you removed and set aside--be extra careful not to scratch the lenses. Use the compressed air to first dust the projection lens. Make a couple of drops of surface cleaner on both the front and rear of the lens and, with the lens tissue, rub gently in a circular motion to remove dust or water condensation marks. No matter how tempted you may be--and this goes
for AV geeks as well as the rest of us--don't try to clean the internal lens. The optics are very sensitive parts. Among other things, unskilled fingers can disturb the finely calibrated focussing mechanism. (Every five years or so, have the slide projector serviced by a professional, who can clean and lubricate the internal systems.)
To clean the projector's lamp, set the cleaned projection lens aside and locate the lamp, which is typically next to the exhaust fan and tends to get really dirty. Again, remove dust with the compressed air "rinse". Using the lens tissue and surface cleaner, gently wipe the mirror that accompanies the lamp. There should be a clear condenser lens bracketed in front of the lamp. Unscrew the bracket, gently remove the lens (holding it on the edges only), and clean it as you did the other lenses. Reattach it to the lamp assembly. If the condenser lens is tinted green (as it often is on models made more than a decade ago), take even more care when handling it. Don't touch the lens with bare fingers (handle it with a clean cloth or tissue), and if you must set it down, do so on a clot. This time, don't use the cleaning solution; wipe it very gently with the lens tissue.
After reassembling the projector, turn it on. You may smell a strange odor, generated by the dust disturbed during the cleaning. The smell will stop after the dust has settled. If the unit still smell after 30 minutes, something is probably wrong. call a service center for advice--or a friend who spent his or her youth tinkering with AV equipment.
Cleaning the projection screen is the easy part. Although there are different screen materials, the cleaning techniques are the same for nearly all. Make a solution of mild dish-washing liquid and warm water. Gently wipe away dust and dirt with a sponge dipped in the solution. Rinse by wiping with a clean, wet sponge. Blot dry using a clean cloth. That's it. Never use solvents, such as acetone or paint thinner, and never use abrasive cleaners.
If you have a glass bead screen or a screen with a delicate surface, don't clean it with water and soap. Instead, simply brush away dusting using a soft-bristled brush or a clean, lint-free cloth. Happy viewing.
Note: See Tomorrow Medical Blog
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