Soot:
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The oily black film known as soot is nasty to clean. A byproduct of smoke, this combination of oil, carbon, and tar can settle into microscopic cracks of the myriad objects in your home. Run your finger across a wall with soot on it, and the oils in your finger, combined with the soot, on it, and the oils in your finger, combined with the soot, will permanently maker the surface. Even after you clean the wall, that soot mark will remain.
So what should you do?
Before you start, assess how widespread the soot contamination is to see whether you need to call a professional. Test in two or three rooms in an conspicuous, high area. Take a paper towel folded into a pad, dampen it with water, and wipe across the surface. If the paper towel turns gray, you've got dust. If it turns black, you've soot. If there's a lot of the black stuff, call a pro.
In general, you can treat light surface soot if it isn't widespread. Widespread surface soot may need professional attention, because if soot isn't totally cleaned, it an recirculate in the house through the heating system. Call a professional anytime you have greasy soot.
To eradicate soot, systematically plan your cleaning. The general rule is to work from the top to the bottom of an area--except when using the wet method described below. Then you'll need to work from the bottom up. First remove as much soot as you can through a dry method. Wear old clothes, rubber gloves, a baseball cap, a disposable paper dust mask , and safety goggles, especially when removing loose particles.
To use the dry method of cleaning, follow these steps:
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The oily black film known as soot is nasty to clean. A byproduct of smoke, this combination of oil, carbon, and tar can settle into microscopic cracks of the myriad objects in your home. Run your finger across a wall with soot on it, and the oils in your finger, combined with the soot, on it, and the oils in your finger, combined with the soot, will permanently maker the surface. Even after you clean the wall, that soot mark will remain.
So what should you do?
Before you start, assess how widespread the soot contamination is to see whether you need to call a professional. Test in two or three rooms in an conspicuous, high area. Take a paper towel folded into a pad, dampen it with water, and wipe across the surface. If the paper towel turns gray, you've got dust. If it turns black, you've soot. If there's a lot of the black stuff, call a pro.
In general, you can treat light surface soot if it isn't widespread. Widespread surface soot may need professional attention, because if soot isn't totally cleaned, it an recirculate in the house through the heating system. Call a professional anytime you have greasy soot.
To eradicate soot, systematically plan your cleaning. The general rule is to work from the top to the bottom of an area--except when using the wet method described below. Then you'll need to work from the bottom up. First remove as much soot as you can through a dry method. Wear old clothes, rubber gloves, a baseball cap, a disposable paper dust mask , and safety goggles, especially when removing loose particles.
To use the dry method of cleaning, follow these steps:
- Vacuum, sweep, or feather dust the surfaces involved. Use a quick, flicking motion with a broom or duster or keep the vacuum head about 1/4 inch from the surface to avoid scratching. Don't rub---unless you want to huge smear to clean! Place newspapers under affected surfaces to catch soot for easy removal.
- Vacuum upholstery. If this doesn't work, call a professional fire and smoke restorer or dry cleaner specializing in soot removal.
- On lamps shade and on sturdy but small objects, try compressed air to blow the soot off the object. Take it outside to do this.
- Use a special soot sponge or chemical sponge (available at drugstores, janitorial supply stores, conservation suppliers, and online.) on walls and ceilings or on unfinished wood. Apply the sponge to the surface in methodical lines so you can keep track of where you have cleaned. To apply to ceilings or walls, attach the sponge to a pole. When the sponge is filthy on all sides, shave off the dirty layer with a razor or wash it alone in the washing machine. Don't wring it, or you will ruin the chemical treatment.
Next, use the wet cleaning method, following the steps:
The wet method is the last resort after you've removed as much of the soot as possible by vacuuming (or dusting or brushing) and using the soot sponge. Put down a plastic drop cloth and wash the surfaces with a solution of warm water and a couple of drops of degreaser. Apply liberally to the surface with a sponge, rag, or hard-bristled scrub brush. Rinse with water and wipe dry. If necessary, repeat this procedure.
If a small stain remains after repeated washing, apply minerals spirits carefully with cotton swabs and made by tightly rolling cotton balls around the end of a wooden skewer. These are preferable to commercially available cotton swabs, because solvents can dissolve the plastic stalks. Lightly moisten the swab with the mineral spirits and gently roll it across the object. Don't rub or wipe, since this might ingrain the soot and carbon in the surface of the object. Never fully immerse an object in solvent. work slowly and methodically. Test this method on an inconspicuous part of the object first.
Here are some tips for specific soot-removal jobs:
On objects with a glossy finish, such as coffee tables, vacuum first. Dampen a cloth with cleaner such as Formula 409, Fantastik, or Windex, and wipe over the surface after testing on an inconspicuous area.
For vinyl surfaces, including wallpaper, vacuum and then use the wet method straight away. A soot sponge will not absorb the soot on glossy surfaces, and it will leave smeary marks.
To clean ceilings, try vacuuming and then using the soot sponge for a flat painted ceiling. Then use the wet method.
To use the wet method on walls, clean from the bottom up. Start in small sections, wipe the wet sponge onto the wall in circular motions, and then wipe dry with an old towel or rag. It's very important to wipe any soot drips immediately.
Clean floors first and last. Before attacking any other part of the room, vacuum thoroughly to get up any loose material so it won't be ground into the flooring. Then protect the floor with drop cloths while you clean the rest of the room. Return to the floors again for a thorough cleaning at the end. Try water and a degreaser first on wood and tile, and for carpeting use a regular carpet shampoo applied either with a carpet-cleaning machine or a wet vac. If a wood floor won't come clean, you'll have to refinish it. If small soot stains remain on the carpet, apply mineral spirits, scrub, and then shampoo the carpet again. Seek professional help if this doesn't work.
If sooty marks remain on walls, ceilings, or cabinets despite your best efforts, painting is the last option. First, seal the mark using a stain-resistant primer-sealer such as Bin or Kilz, available at paint stores, and then paint with the color of your choice.
See also smoke.
Spills
The wet method is the last resort after you've removed as much of the soot as possible by vacuuming (or dusting or brushing) and using the soot sponge. Put down a plastic drop cloth and wash the surfaces with a solution of warm water and a couple of drops of degreaser. Apply liberally to the surface with a sponge, rag, or hard-bristled scrub brush. Rinse with water and wipe dry. If necessary, repeat this procedure.
If a small stain remains after repeated washing, apply minerals spirits carefully with cotton swabs and made by tightly rolling cotton balls around the end of a wooden skewer. These are preferable to commercially available cotton swabs, because solvents can dissolve the plastic stalks. Lightly moisten the swab with the mineral spirits and gently roll it across the object. Don't rub or wipe, since this might ingrain the soot and carbon in the surface of the object. Never fully immerse an object in solvent. work slowly and methodically. Test this method on an inconspicuous part of the object first.
Here are some tips for specific soot-removal jobs:
On objects with a glossy finish, such as coffee tables, vacuum first. Dampen a cloth with cleaner such as Formula 409, Fantastik, or Windex, and wipe over the surface after testing on an inconspicuous area.
For vinyl surfaces, including wallpaper, vacuum and then use the wet method straight away. A soot sponge will not absorb the soot on glossy surfaces, and it will leave smeary marks.
To clean ceilings, try vacuuming and then using the soot sponge for a flat painted ceiling. Then use the wet method.
To use the wet method on walls, clean from the bottom up. Start in small sections, wipe the wet sponge onto the wall in circular motions, and then wipe dry with an old towel or rag. It's very important to wipe any soot drips immediately.
Clean floors first and last. Before attacking any other part of the room, vacuum thoroughly to get up any loose material so it won't be ground into the flooring. Then protect the floor with drop cloths while you clean the rest of the room. Return to the floors again for a thorough cleaning at the end. Try water and a degreaser first on wood and tile, and for carpeting use a regular carpet shampoo applied either with a carpet-cleaning machine or a wet vac. If a wood floor won't come clean, you'll have to refinish it. If small soot stains remain on the carpet, apply mineral spirits, scrub, and then shampoo the carpet again. Seek professional help if this doesn't work.
If sooty marks remain on walls, ceilings, or cabinets despite your best efforts, painting is the last option. First, seal the mark using a stain-resistant primer-sealer such as Bin or Kilz, available at paint stores, and then paint with the color of your choice.
See also smoke.
Spills
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As long as there is gravity, there will be spills. So it makes sense to prepare yourself for the next jostled cup of juice or puddle of sloshed soda pop. To win out over spills, you have to keep your cool, work fast, and, above all, know what you're doing so that you won't make matters worse.
To tackle spills on hard surfaces, such as vinyl or wood floors, simply soak up the excess liquid as soon as possible with paper towels, a cloth, or some other clean, absorbent material. Once the liquid is up, rinse by wiping with paper towels or a cloth moistened with clear water. Dry with paper towels or a cloth.
For spills on textiles, such as carpeting, upholstery, or clothing, begin by blotting up as much of the excess liquid as possible. For washable fabrics, soak in cold water (hot water can set some stains, such as those that are protein-based). Don't rub or brush, because you might damage the textile's texture. For big spills, work from the outer edge of the spill to the center to contain it. Your next step depends on what spilled. Follow the specific guidelines in Stains.
As long as there is gravity, there will be spills. So it makes sense to prepare yourself for the next jostled cup of juice or puddle of sloshed soda pop. To win out over spills, you have to keep your cool, work fast, and, above all, know what you're doing so that you won't make matters worse.
To tackle spills on hard surfaces, such as vinyl or wood floors, simply soak up the excess liquid as soon as possible with paper towels, a cloth, or some other clean, absorbent material. Once the liquid is up, rinse by wiping with paper towels or a cloth moistened with clear water. Dry with paper towels or a cloth.
For spills on textiles, such as carpeting, upholstery, or clothing, begin by blotting up as much of the excess liquid as possible. For washable fabrics, soak in cold water (hot water can set some stains, such as those that are protein-based). Don't rub or brush, because you might damage the textile's texture. For big spills, work from the outer edge of the spill to the center to contain it. Your next step depends on what spilled. Follow the specific guidelines in Stains.
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