Stains:
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For combination stains in carpets an upholstery, also begin to removing the oily air waxy part first. Apply isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) and to clean white cloth or white paper towel and blot the stain. Discard the dirty towels and repeat using fresh paper towels and alcohol until the stain is gone. Don't let the alcohol penetrate the carpet backing, as it could destroy the latex lining.
If the alcohol treatment doesn't work, try the next step:
simple SOLUTIONS
Cellar Treatment >
To remove lipstick stains from fabric, rub some tooth paste into the stain as a pre-treatment and then wash as usual.
Lightly apply a solution of 1/4 teaspoon of mild dish-washing liquid (one that doesn't contain lanolin or bleach) and 1 quart of water. Use a blotting motion to work the solution into the affected area. Blot with a clean paper towel to remove the solution. Rinse by lightly spraying with water and blotting. Do this until all the suds are gone. They spray again lightly with water. But instead of blotting this time, by a pad of paper towels down, put a weight on it, and let it dry.
Finally if that doesn't completely remove the stain, moisten the stained tufts with 3 percent hydrogen peroxide and let stand for one hour. Blot and repeat until the stain is gone. No rinsing is necessary following this procedure. To dry, use a pad of paper towels and weight.
> Other stains not in the categories already mentioned include stains produced by perspiration, glue, paint, mud, and nail polish.
Treat deodorant and perspiration stains as you would dye stains. The aluminum or zinc salt buildup from deodorants can make them particularly stubborn.
To remove glue, begin by scraping off whatever you can with a dull knife (rubbing ic on it first to harden it). If the glue is white school glue, such as Elmer's, treat it as you would a protein-based stain, which means no hot water---the hot water could cook the proteins. If it is model-airplane glue, treat it as an oil-based stain. If the glue won't come out, place the stain face-down on absorbent paper towels. To force the stain out, blot the back of the fabric with a cloth moistened with dry-cleaning solvent.
Treat latex paint while it is wet. Soak the fabric in cold water and then wash it in cold water with laundry detergent. If the paint has dried, even for as little as six hours, treat it as you would a Group A combination stain.
Remove oil-based paint when it is wet, too. Spot treat with paint thinner or turpentine and a sponge or cloth until the paint loosened and as much is removed as possible. Then, before it can dry, wash in hot water and detergent.
Handle mud as you would a protein-based stain, with one exception: It's best to wait until mud has dried before cleaning it. Once it has dried, scrape off the excess solids. Then follow the protein-stain procedures.
If a rust stain remains after removing the mud, treat it with a commercial rust remover, available at supermarkets. Since rust removers can be toxic, follow the directions on the container carefully. A solution of lemon juice and salt sometimes removes rust. Sprinkle salt on the stain, squeeze lemon juice on it, and put the item in the sun to dry. Be sure to test the lemon juice first, since it can bleach some fabrics. And the forewarned: Chlorine bleach makes rust stains permanent.
To remove nail polish, blot with a clean cloth moistened with acetone or nail polish remover until the stain is gone. If possible, lay side to force the stain out the way it came in. Don't use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate, or modacrylic fabrics. It will dissolve these fabrics.
Yellowing of a fabric can occur for several reasons: not enough detergent,a wash cycle, too much detergent insufficient wash temperatures, color transfer from other times while washing, or a fabric's loss of artificial whiteners. You best bet for restoring brightness and whiteness is to launder with the proper amount of detergent and bleach. First, try oxygen bleach. If that doesn't work, try a cycle with chlorine bleach.
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For combination stains in carpets an upholstery, also begin to removing the oily air waxy part first. Apply isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) and to clean white cloth or white paper towel and blot the stain. Discard the dirty towels and repeat using fresh paper towels and alcohol until the stain is gone. Don't let the alcohol penetrate the carpet backing, as it could destroy the latex lining.
If the alcohol treatment doesn't work, try the next step:
simple SOLUTIONS
Cellar Treatment >
To remove lipstick stains from fabric, rub some tooth paste into the stain as a pre-treatment and then wash as usual.
Lightly apply a solution of 1/4 teaspoon of mild dish-washing liquid (one that doesn't contain lanolin or bleach) and 1 quart of water. Use a blotting motion to work the solution into the affected area. Blot with a clean paper towel to remove the solution. Rinse by lightly spraying with water and blotting. Do this until all the suds are gone. They spray again lightly with water. But instead of blotting this time, by a pad of paper towels down, put a weight on it, and let it dry.
Finally if that doesn't completely remove the stain, moisten the stained tufts with 3 percent hydrogen peroxide and let stand for one hour. Blot and repeat until the stain is gone. No rinsing is necessary following this procedure. To dry, use a pad of paper towels and weight.
> Other stains not in the categories already mentioned include stains produced by perspiration, glue, paint, mud, and nail polish.
Treat deodorant and perspiration stains as you would dye stains. The aluminum or zinc salt buildup from deodorants can make them particularly stubborn.
To remove glue, begin by scraping off whatever you can with a dull knife (rubbing ic on it first to harden it). If the glue is white school glue, such as Elmer's, treat it as you would a protein-based stain, which means no hot water---the hot water could cook the proteins. If it is model-airplane glue, treat it as an oil-based stain. If the glue won't come out, place the stain face-down on absorbent paper towels. To force the stain out, blot the back of the fabric with a cloth moistened with dry-cleaning solvent.
Treat latex paint while it is wet. Soak the fabric in cold water and then wash it in cold water with laundry detergent. If the paint has dried, even for as little as six hours, treat it as you would a Group A combination stain.
Remove oil-based paint when it is wet, too. Spot treat with paint thinner or turpentine and a sponge or cloth until the paint loosened and as much is removed as possible. Then, before it can dry, wash in hot water and detergent.
Handle mud as you would a protein-based stain, with one exception: It's best to wait until mud has dried before cleaning it. Once it has dried, scrape off the excess solids. Then follow the protein-stain procedures.
If a rust stain remains after removing the mud, treat it with a commercial rust remover, available at supermarkets. Since rust removers can be toxic, follow the directions on the container carefully. A solution of lemon juice and salt sometimes removes rust. Sprinkle salt on the stain, squeeze lemon juice on it, and put the item in the sun to dry. Be sure to test the lemon juice first, since it can bleach some fabrics. And the forewarned: Chlorine bleach makes rust stains permanent.
To remove nail polish, blot with a clean cloth moistened with acetone or nail polish remover until the stain is gone. If possible, lay side to force the stain out the way it came in. Don't use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate, or modacrylic fabrics. It will dissolve these fabrics.
Yellowing of a fabric can occur for several reasons: not enough detergent,a wash cycle, too much detergent insufficient wash temperatures, color transfer from other times while washing, or a fabric's loss of artificial whiteners. You best bet for restoring brightness and whiteness is to launder with the proper amount of detergent and bleach. First, try oxygen bleach. If that doesn't work, try a cycle with chlorine bleach.
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