Sports Equipment:
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To get the most out of your in-line skates, rotates the wheels as soon as you notice that they are wearing down. Switch the most worn with the least worn. Switch from one shake to the other. Since wheels wear faster on the inside edge, turn the less worn side inward. If the bearings get wet, remove them from the wheels and wipe them dry as soon as possible, using a clean, lint-free cloth. Don't lubricate the outside of the bearing--that will attract dirt.
Clean bearings that have removable outer shields. You'll know they need cleaning when they spin slowly or make a noise while spinning (the sound of dirt inside). After following the manufacturer's instructions for removing the shields, clean the bearings by inserting a stick, pen or pencil through their doughnut-shaped casing. Dip them in a container of mineral spirits and spin them in the liquid until the dirt is gone. Lay the bearings on a paper towel to dry, or blow them dry with a can of compressed air. Finish up by lubricating them with bearing lubricant, available at skate supply stores.
To maintain a skateboard, keep in mind that most skateboards are made of laminated wood and shouldn't get wet. Dry them if they do. To clean dirty checks, scrub the grip tape with a soft-bristled brush dipped in clean water. Rinse by wiping with a wet cloth or sponge. Dry well with a clean cloth as soon as you've finished rinsing.
As with in-line skate wheels, skateboard wheels should be rotated when you notice they are wearing down. switch the most worn with the least worn. If the bearings get wet, remove them from the wheels and wipe them dry as soon as possible using a clean, lint-free cloth. Don't lubricate the outside of the bearing, because that will attract dirt.
If your bearings have removable outer shields, you can clean and lubricate them. Follow the instructions described above for cleaning and lubricating in-line skate bearings.
To clean skis and poles, wipe them down with a moist rag and then dry with a dry rag, or use a sudsy solution of warm water and dish-washing liquid. Rinse and dry them well. Wax your skis every few times you use them. Each time you wax them, clean the bases either by using a spray-on/wipe-off base cleaner (available at ski shops) or by putting on hot wax with an old iron and scraping it off with a plastic scraper before it has dried. (Scrapers are available at ski shops, or in a pinch you can use a plastic wind-shield scraper. Once you've used an iron for waxing, never use it on clothes.) After you ski, always dry your skis and poles with a cloth to keep them from rusting.
To clean ski boots, wipe them off with a damp cloth--if they are the hard-plastic variety--and remove the inner boot after each use so that both will dry properly. Wipe leather boots with a damp cloth, but avoid getting them very wet. Let them air-dry, but never near heat, which will dry out and crack leather. If your leather ski boots do get wet, remove the insoles and stuff single sheets of newspaper in them. Keep leather boots coated with a leather waterproofing product, available at sporting goods and shoe stores.
To clean a snowboard, follow the instructions for cleaning and waxing skis described above. Every time you snow board, dry your board afterward, with a cloth to keep it from rusting.
To clean a soccer ball, which is typically made of easy-to-clean synthetic leather, just wipe it off with a moist cloth. But a soccer ball should rarely need cleaning.
To clean your tennis racket-- or your racquetball, squash, or badminton racket--wipe it with a damp cloth. Don't get the strings wet, because moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip either, as moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip either, as moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip leather, as moisture can take away the grip's tackiness and make it slippery. Instead, wipe perspiration off with a dry cloth. If your overgrip (the material you can wrap around or slip over the grip) gets dirty, replace it.
When washing outfits for any sport, promptness is key. Don't let sweaty outfits remain in lockers or balled up in gym bags. Wash them in your washing machine without delay. Shrinkage is another big issue. You can't play well if your pants and jersey are too small. To avoid shrinkage, stick to cold-water wash cycles and air-drying instead of using the dryer. Hot dryers can also make the screen-printed numbers and team names on uniform crack.
If you need to clean pads and protectors for sports such as hockey and football, surface clean them with a cloth and plain water or a very mild solution of dish-washing liquid and water. Rinse by wiping with a wet cloth. Don't submerge pads or protectors--the water might remain in the padding and lead to bacteria growth and odors. Spray pads with a fabric waterproofing product, such as
Scotchgard, to help keep them clean and less susceptible to moisture.
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To get the most out of your in-line skates, rotates the wheels as soon as you notice that they are wearing down. Switch the most worn with the least worn. Switch from one shake to the other. Since wheels wear faster on the inside edge, turn the less worn side inward. If the bearings get wet, remove them from the wheels and wipe them dry as soon as possible, using a clean, lint-free cloth. Don't lubricate the outside of the bearing--that will attract dirt.
Clean bearings that have removable outer shields. You'll know they need cleaning when they spin slowly or make a noise while spinning (the sound of dirt inside). After following the manufacturer's instructions for removing the shields, clean the bearings by inserting a stick, pen or pencil through their doughnut-shaped casing. Dip them in a container of mineral spirits and spin them in the liquid until the dirt is gone. Lay the bearings on a paper towel to dry, or blow them dry with a can of compressed air. Finish up by lubricating them with bearing lubricant, available at skate supply stores.
To maintain a skateboard, keep in mind that most skateboards are made of laminated wood and shouldn't get wet. Dry them if they do. To clean dirty checks, scrub the grip tape with a soft-bristled brush dipped in clean water. Rinse by wiping with a wet cloth or sponge. Dry well with a clean cloth as soon as you've finished rinsing.
As with in-line skate wheels, skateboard wheels should be rotated when you notice they are wearing down. switch the most worn with the least worn. If the bearings get wet, remove them from the wheels and wipe them dry as soon as possible using a clean, lint-free cloth. Don't lubricate the outside of the bearing, because that will attract dirt.
If your bearings have removable outer shields, you can clean and lubricate them. Follow the instructions described above for cleaning and lubricating in-line skate bearings.
To clean skis and poles, wipe them down with a moist rag and then dry with a dry rag, or use a sudsy solution of warm water and dish-washing liquid. Rinse and dry them well. Wax your skis every few times you use them. Each time you wax them, clean the bases either by using a spray-on/wipe-off base cleaner (available at ski shops) or by putting on hot wax with an old iron and scraping it off with a plastic scraper before it has dried. (Scrapers are available at ski shops, or in a pinch you can use a plastic wind-shield scraper. Once you've used an iron for waxing, never use it on clothes.) After you ski, always dry your skis and poles with a cloth to keep them from rusting.
To clean ski boots, wipe them off with a damp cloth--if they are the hard-plastic variety--and remove the inner boot after each use so that both will dry properly. Wipe leather boots with a damp cloth, but avoid getting them very wet. Let them air-dry, but never near heat, which will dry out and crack leather. If your leather ski boots do get wet, remove the insoles and stuff single sheets of newspaper in them. Keep leather boots coated with a leather waterproofing product, available at sporting goods and shoe stores.
To clean a snowboard, follow the instructions for cleaning and waxing skis described above. Every time you snow board, dry your board afterward, with a cloth to keep it from rusting.
To clean a soccer ball, which is typically made of easy-to-clean synthetic leather, just wipe it off with a moist cloth. But a soccer ball should rarely need cleaning.
To clean your tennis racket-- or your racquetball, squash, or badminton racket--wipe it with a damp cloth. Don't get the strings wet, because moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip either, as moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip either, as moisture can ruin them. Try not to wet the leather grip leather, as moisture can take away the grip's tackiness and make it slippery. Instead, wipe perspiration off with a dry cloth. If your overgrip (the material you can wrap around or slip over the grip) gets dirty, replace it.
When washing outfits for any sport, promptness is key. Don't let sweaty outfits remain in lockers or balled up in gym bags. Wash them in your washing machine without delay. Shrinkage is another big issue. You can't play well if your pants and jersey are too small. To avoid shrinkage, stick to cold-water wash cycles and air-drying instead of using the dryer. Hot dryers can also make the screen-printed numbers and team names on uniform crack.
If you need to clean pads and protectors for sports such as hockey and football, surface clean them with a cloth and plain water or a very mild solution of dish-washing liquid and water. Rinse by wiping with a wet cloth. Don't submerge pads or protectors--the water might remain in the padding and lead to bacteria growth and odors. Spray pads with a fabric waterproofing product, such as
Scotchgard, to help keep them clean and less susceptible to moisture.
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